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  1. #16
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    this is my machine.
    Zed

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  3. #17
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    this is it in thicknesser mode - note the tables flip up thus no realignment issues - removing snipe and other assorted problems.
    Zed

  4. #18
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    For the record the Scheppach has a cast iron top and weighs in at 180kg, 3hp motorand is currently listed at $1,749.
    The Jet JPT 260 is 10 kg less weighing in at 170kg, 2.3hp motor and is currently listed at $2,335.

    Both have plenty of good reviews online. There's also a youtube demo of the Jet, sadly I haven't been able to find the same type ofvision for the Scheppach.

  5. #19
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    What is the link for the youtube demo? I couldn't find it.

  6. #20
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    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7q3lpw_XLM"]YouTube - The New JET® JJP-12 Jointer/Planer Combo[/ame] is the link for the JJP-12, the big brother of the unit you may be looking at

  7. #21
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    Very nice machine there Zed. Looks like you've been making good use of the dust extraction

    Combo machines obviously have space benefits, but what other benefits are there? It seems that you will also end up with a larger jointer with the combo... but are they cheaper than two separate units? More/less powerful? What are the benefits of two separate machines over a combo?

    Another question you've given me Zed... does a thicknesser larger than the jointer become redundant? e.g., why would you have a 15" thicknesser when you only have an 8" jointer? Looks like a lot of the dedicated jointers tend to max out at 8" in my price range, but they seem to have longer tables than the combos...

    Obviously it depends on the work you're doing, but too what extent do you really use the full width of a larger jointer/thicknesser? Are there really that many situations where you would require a unit that larger than 260mm?

    Space is a factor for me now, but in a few years it won't be and i'd rather get the right setup for the long run. If was to get two separate machines i'd probably get the carbatec 8" jointer and no idea for the thicknesser.
    http://www.carbatec.com.au/machinery...-tec-8-jointer

    The 260mm jet combo is looking more and more attractive to me. Would the serious hobbyist outgrow this machine?
    http://www.benchworks.com.au/jpt260.htm

    Is the 310 worth the extra $1k?
    http://www.benchworks.com.au/jpt310.htm

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by YeahNah View Post
    is the link for the JJP-12, the big brother of the unit you may be looking at
    That's unreal. I want one.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
    Is the 310 worth the extra $1k?
    http://www.benchworks.com.au/jpt310.htm
    Australian prices are bull####. They are selling the same machine in the US for $2000 USD or $2,780 AUD (current rate) and here in Australia we pay $3390 AUD ($610 more!!!).

    Whats the story? Is it import taxes or something to do with shipping or do we just get ripped off here?

  10. #24
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    gotta remember US prices exclude tax, aussie price inc tax

    and no doubt less units are brought into australia

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed View Post
    this is it in thicknesser mode - note the tables flip up thus no realignment issues - removing snipe and other assorted problems.
    Zed. Thanks for your advice. Can you clarify these alignment and other problems you refer to and what to watch out for in a prospective machine?

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psych 101 View Post
    Australian prices are bull####. They are selling the same machine in the US for $2000 USD or $2,780 AUD (current rate) and here in Australia we pay $3390 AUD ($610 more!!!).

    Whats the story? Is it import taxes or something to do with shipping or do we just get ripped off here?
    I'd say it's mostly to do with the AU suppliers/importers. All the Jet stuff was pretty cheap when the $AU was up in the $US 90cent mark, but then all the prices sky rocketed when the $AU crashed, and I'd hazard a guess that they haven't actually imported much stock after the $AU crashed. I wouldn't expect AU supplier prices to come down with the $AU rising against the $US again either. What can you do?

    Thanks for everyone's advice. I'd still like to hear people's opinions on whether it is largely redundant having a thicknesser that is larger than the jointer, and whether most fine woodworkers (as opposed to carpenters etc) actually use jointing/thicknessing capacity greater than say 260mm.

    Cheers

  13. #27
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    the alignment issues I speak of is for sidways flip up tables when going into thickness mode, sometimes when they come down again they dont come down all the way or fall out of alignment causing snipe and other unwanted issues. my flip up on the Holz Profi doesnt have this as the flip is not on the centre of the tables, they stay where they are and the wings flip up so to speak. (as tyou can see in the photo)

    a Holz Profi is worth the extra cash, you'll soon forget the pain of the cost but will be reminded what a dog a machine you've bought every time you have to realign or adjust if you buy a P.o.S.

    a bigger thickenesser is not redundant as it allows you to smoth bigger dimensions of timber reducing sanding and edge joining think of a tabele top 900mm wide. in a 300mm thicnkesser you need to have 3 sections joined if you have a 500mm thicknesser then you only need 2 sections...
    Zed

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed View Post
    the alignment issues I speak of is for sidways flip up tables when going into thickness mode, sometimes when they come down again they dont come down all the way or fall out of alignment causing snipe and other unwanted issues. my flip up on the Holz Profi doesnt have this as the flip is not on the centre of the tables, they stay where they are and the wings flip up so to speak. (as tyou can see in the photo)
    So the Jet unit that macman posted a video of may be susceptible to these alignment issues your talking about?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zed View Post
    a bigger thickenesser is not redundant as it allows you to smoth bigger dimensions of timber reducing sanding and edge joining think of a tabele top 900mm wide. in a 300mm thicnkesser you need to have 3 sections joined if you have a 500mm thicknesser then you only need 2 sections...
    But don't you need to dress two sides on the jointer before you could dress the other two on the thicknesser? Or are you coming from the angle that the wood already has at least two sides dressed on a large jointer (e.g. at a commercial joinery or supplied dressed) before thicknessing/smoothing urself at home?

    Zed, would you get by with a 260mm combo instead of a 310?

    Thanks
    Ryan

  15. #29
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    dunno for certain but I reckon any flip sideways table could be susceptible .

    yes you normally do the face and the face edge on the jointer then thickness the other 2 sides. technically the other 2 sides could be done on a table saw if t you have the capacity/inclinaiton/accuracy.

    if you are edge jointing a bunch of boards for say a table top you would have to have dressed at the very least the face and both edges wouldn't you ? this would allow you a flat surface as a reference plane and squaring for the board edges so you wouldnt get a wonky un-flat top. the opposing face you would finish at exact thckness as wide as your thicknesser would allow. then and only then would you join the narrow panels into final widths. obviously some careful alignment "in clamp" would be needed, glue marks would also need to be removed (so some light sanding required...) understand ?

    a 260 would do, sure. but most thicknessers these days are sold as 300mm - even the benchtop varieties. If I had a bot more room I would use the combi as a jointer and get a 20 inch thichnesser and use both dedicated. might even replace the combi so I woudl have a cast iron fence instead of an aluminium one!

    Note - heavy gauge is always better, I think my holz is about 260kg or more. ill check the manual tonight.
    Zed

  16. #30
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    so i guess you could join two 5" boards on a 6" jointer and then dress them to size on your 12" thicknesser...
    i have experience dressing timber for picture frames and understand how each machine functions in respect of the other.

    Thanks for all your help Zed, there should be plenty of other new starters who'll benefit from this thread too.

    cheers

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