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Thread: 30A thicknesser on 15A circuit?
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16th March 2023, 10:00 PM #1New Member
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30A thicknesser on 15A circuit?
I recently purchased a secondhand thicknesser and found in the manual the following sentence:
"It is recommended that the Planer be connected to a dedicated, minimum 30 amp circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker or time delay fuse."
I know nothing about electrical components so bear with me, but the unit has a hardwired 15A plug. I connected it, with an extension cord, to a single 15A outlet which is on a dedicated circuit, and thought I'd give it a whirl. It started well and seemed to run smoothly so I thicknessed a handful of small boards with perhaps two or three passes on each side. After this - which lasted 15 minutes max - I felt the cord and other components to check their temperature. Everything seemed cool except for the housing panel over the belts. After taking that off, I found the belts themselves were very warm, and both pulleys were so hot that I didn't want to rest my hand there at all.
I was wondering; is this normal for a single phase machine or should I be worried? It is my first home machine after using only 3PH machines in workplaces, and am unfamiliar with the difference in heat dissipation.
Thanks in advance!
Jordan
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17th March 2023, 08:40 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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How tight are the belts?
What does the motor face plate say?
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17th March 2023, 08:44 AM #3
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17th March 2023, 08:51 AM #4.
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Where does it say it needs 30A? That sounds like an instruction that is based on a 110V supply as used in Japan north america. It's not unusual for instructions for machines aimed at these markets to be incorrectly translated to machines to be used on 230V supply. As pippin88 says, what does it say on the motor nameplate.
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19th March 2023, 04:31 PM #5Intermediate Member
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If it didn't trip then the current limit wasn't exceeded. Happy days.
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26th March 2023, 01:57 PM #6Senior Member
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Whist I wouldn't recommend it. I have run a 15A bandsaw (3HP ) The whole shed was run off a 10A house socket and extension lead - made the lights dim during start up.
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28th March 2023, 09:28 AM #7
Many electric motors (all but "soft start" / inverter controlled) require a significant current draw in the initial few seconds on startup which may be many times the typical running load current of the machine - called the "inrush current" or "locked rotor current". This is why lights dim when a motor is started etc. and is mostly what is used to define the required amperage circuit for that machine.
Another factor that is specified with electric motors is the "locked rotor current" the current drawn to attempt to turn the motor shaft when for some reason or another the shaft is prevented from rotating - a table saw stalled or jambed in a closed up saw kerf etc.
Generally "inrush current" is used to define a motor start in normal operating conditions and "locked rotor current" for a motor stall. Most electric motors have some form of thermal overload protection to prevent damage from a motor stall.
The motor stall situation is the significant hazard / risk and may overwhelm the circuit - hopefully tripping any circuit overload protection. Older homes without circuit protection and with the older wire fuses are at significant risk especially if a tenant / owner has "upped" the fuse wire rating to prevent "nuisance" events.Last edited by Mobyturns; 28th March 2023 at 09:38 AM. Reason: typos
Mobyturns
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