Thread: 600mm+ wide sander?

Hi Albert

I've used both a stroke sander and a wide belt sander (the Jet 16-32)

If you use either sander as a thicknesser and try to take off a lot of material, both sanders will heat up the work piece.

of the two, the Jet was much much easier to use
the stroke sander takes a degree of finese that took me quite a while to develop. However, once you master the technique I believe it's a bit more versatile that a drum sander -- it can level glued up frames where a drum sander will leave cross grain scratches in either the stiles or the rails.
Dust collection is on a stroke sander needs lots and lots of suck. Where single phase might happily run the sander, you might need a 3 phase DC setup.

Having used the Jet 16-32 and been very happy with its performance, I'd be inclined in your situation to look seriously at the Jet 22-44

lastly, a stroke sander has a fairly large foot print, which could be significant in a one man shop

A stroke sander will do the job, , but the footprint is large and they are not that user friendly, the drum sander will do what you need and has better dust extraction.

With a coarse belt the drum will remove glue etc, but changing the drum sander belt/strip, is slower and requires attention to the tension, however you will not get major sanding hollows, or belt gauges with the drum sander, and may be better for a single man workshop.


vk4

hi albert
we have a carba-tec 600mm twin drum sander at our local mens shed and we use 60/80 grit, if you have your feed table at minum speed it will do a very nice job, but make sure you scrape all the glue of your timber other wise you will be changing the belts frequently.
regards john.
ps not sure what is causing the red lines, help,

hi albert
we have a carba-tec 600mm twin drum sander at our local mens shed and we use 60/80 grit, if you have your feed table at minum speed it will do a very nice job, but make sure you scrape all the glue of your timber other wise you will be changing the belts frequently.
regards john.

Originally Posted by ian

Hi Albert

I've used both a stroke sander and a wide belt sander (the Jet 16-32)

If you use either sander as a thicknesser and try to take off a lot of material, both sanders will heat up the work piece.

of the two, the Jet was much much easier to use
the stroke sander takes a degree of finese that took me quite a while to develop. However, once you master the technique I believe it's a bit more versatile that a drum sander -- it can level glued up frames where a drum sander will leave cross grain scratches in either the stiles or the rails.
Dust collection is on a stroke sander needs lots and lots of suck. Where single phase might happily run the sander, you might need a 3 phase DC setup.

Having used the Jet 16-32 and been very happy with its performance, I'd be inclined in your situation to look seriously at the Jet 22-44

lastly, a stroke sander has a fairly large foot print, which could be significant in a one man shop

hi Ian

thanks for that, very useful information, i probably will give up he stoke sander as its too large for m6 workshop. especially if i am going to get a combo machine with 2400mm rip capacity...

Originally Posted by vk4

A stroke sander will do the job, , but the footprint is large and they are not that user friendly, the drum sander will do what you need and has better dust extraction.

With a coarse belt the drum will remove glue etc, but changing the drum sander belt/strip, is slower and requires attention to the tension, however you will not get major sanding hollows, or belt gauges with the drum sander, and may be better for a single man workshop.


vk4

thanks vk4. yes the footprint is an issue for me...

Originally Posted by John T

hi albert
we have a carba-tec 600mm twin drum sander at our local mens shed and we use 60/80 grit, if you have your feed table at minum speed it will do a very nice job, but make sure you scrape all the glue of your timber other wise you will be changing the belts frequently.
regards john.
ps not sure what is causing the red lines, help,

thanks john, yeah i think i will get that drum sander, if i find the motor is underpowered i will just put sand paper on one drum only

To thickness sand a 600mm surface, you only need a 400mm open-ended drum sander. Mine's 400mm, but I can pass a piece through in one direction to do 400mm, then turn the piece around and pass it through again to sand the remainder. That way, it can handle up to 800mm wide timber.

It's this one, from Hare & Forbes: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110

375.jpg

It has the advantage of a very small footprint for small workshops. Great for thicknessing - I use it in lieu of a 'real' thicknesser.

Just an update.

After using the 16inch thicknesser on my Robland NX410 Pro for a week, I am completely sold on the quality Euro machine.

comparing my stand alone made in China 15inch thicknesser, the Robland thicknesser produce much better result, the noise is less and there are less moving parts

This has led me to re think about the sander, I am going to visit a joinery shop to see how a proper wide belt sander works (Griggio sander)