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Thread: Blade setting

  1. #1
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    Default Blade setting

    I find that setting the blades in my 6" Jointer a little frustrating and was looking at these. Does anyone use this type of gauge or do you just do it the normal way the same as me where you use a straight edge on the outfeed table and slowly adjust the blades to give a slight movement of the straight edge as the cutter block is rotated?
    The easy answer is replace it with a spiral or helical head but they do cost a few dollars
    Dallas

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  3. #2
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    Default

    At most shops I've worked they've used similar jigs and they do seem to make life simpler. Mind you, their jointers were of industrial sizes.

    The best thing about 'em is that once you have them set up correctly, you can lock them 'at depth' for instant use next time.

    Well... the last set I used tended to creep the settings a bit over time and use, but it still meant quite a few blade changes between the need to reset.

    'Tis a good idea to mark them left and right, so each always goes back in the same place. If your tables aren't quite spot on, it can make things interesting otherwise.

    Having said all that, I've never felt the need to buy a pair for use in my shed.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
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    Default


    I used them at work on our 16" jointer, in the absence of the proper jig that wasn't supplied when we bought it second hand, until we installed a helical head and they work a treat.

    The clamping bar can shift the blade slightly, so keep it as tight as possible while still allowing the blade to be adjusted to minimise that problem

  5. #4
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    Default

    I use a straight edge to set my 16" Luna blades, but my results vary.

    How does this jig work? I thought the blades were to be set flush with the outfeed table. This jig rests on the cutter block. It doesn't seem to have any reference to the outfeed table.

  6. #5
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    Default

    The jigs are adjustable so you still use a straightedge on the outfeed table, but you have more control. As Skew says, once you have your setting you can lock them for next time and, because the cutter block and table are fixed relative to each other, they will go back in the same place each time.

  7. #6
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    Default

    I use a thick piece of float glass to set the blades in my jointer. Seems to work alright, simple and repeatable.


    Jase

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jasethebeginner View Post
    I use a thick piece of float glass to set the blades in my jointer. Seems to work alright, simple and repeatable.


    Jase
    Can you explain how you do this as I can't picture what you are saying.
    Dallas

  9. #8
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    Default

    I cant see those jigs fitting on my head without removing the tables? Has anyone used them?

  10. #9
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    I have a set that I use on my generic 6” jointer; I’ve also used them on our Guild’s Emico combination machine which has pressed steel tables.

    You can use them three ways depending on the diameter of your cutter block and how wide the gap between the tables is. Ideally you wind the tables all the way out and set the jig directly on the block; but that requires the jointer to be sufficiently large enough to allow this. It also doesn’t take into consideration the possibility that the outfeed table may not be coplaner with the block; cheaper jointers tend not to have much in the way of factory QA.

    The 2nd method for smaller jointers is to mount the jig across the tables and span the cutter block.

    Lastly, one leg on the outfeed table and one on the block. This is my usual method.

    The cheapest way using no special tooling is to use a pair of FLAT batterns; lay them on the outfeed table and rotate the cutter head so it picks them up and moves them towards the infeed. If both move the same amount that cutter is coplaner with the outfeed. The fun part is now getting the other knife(s) to match the same movement; I use a small length of hardwood to tap the knives into position. Sometimes a coffee break or two are needed before achieving success!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  11. #10
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    Default The plate glass method

    Since a picture is worth a thousand words.

    Glass plate.jpg


    Place the blade in position and slide the glass over the blade, letting the blade spring hold it against the glass. I have a mark on the bearing housing I use to position the cutter block to get the blades as consistent as possible.
    As I have 4 set screws to adjust I set the outer two only tight enough to hold the blade in position.
    The glass can be repositioned as required to adjust the inner two set screws to approx the same as the outers.
    Check the blade hasn't moved and tighten the screws to their working position.
    Roll the cutter block around to the next blade, rinse and repeat.

    The glass I have is 10mm thick (started life as a coffee table top, love Council hard rubbish collection) As pictured it covers approx 2/3 of the blade when setting the outer screws. So it's a pretty good reference off the out feed table.

    Working this way I can swap out a set of blades in about 10 mins.

    Jase

  12. #11
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    Default

    That would be handy if my blades were spring loaded, but they need to be adjusted using screws. My Thicknesser has spring loaded blades and that is simple to set with the supplied gauge.
    Dallas

  13. #12
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    Stupid question... could you just find springs that would fit where the adjustment screws go?

  14. #13
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    Default

    Certainly worth a look to see.

  15. #14
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    Default

    I had a look today and there is a solid block under the blade with a grubscrew in the centre to adjust it up and down. Unfortunately only a small portion of the block sits under the blade so replacing it with a spring would be dangerous as it could possibly get out from under the blade when the cutter block is spinning. Good thought though.

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