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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    South Hobart, Hobart, Tasmania
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    Default changing wheels on grinder

    I am sure this has been asked a dozen times before but I can't find it anywhere.

    I want to get organised with my sharpening.

    I have been given an old bench 8” grinder which came fitted with two threaded cones (I assume for buffing/polishing),the right end had a couple of felt wheels.

    I rushed out bought a couple of grinding wheels one white one grey.
    Back in the shed it transpired that the reverse thread completely defeated me on the left hand side, I just cannot move the cone.

    The cone comes off the right hand side and one of two wide dishes (would I be right in assuming they are there for support?) slid off no problem, the inner one refuses to budge (should it move also, it seems rather close in to the middle of the grinder).

    Does anyone have suggestions on:
    1.How to remove the left hand cone?
    2.Do I have to move the inner wide dish if so how can I move it without damaging it?
    3.I assume I need nuts and washers to hold the wheels on, what are they called so I can try and source some?
    4.What are felt wheel s used for?
    Thanks for any help you can offer

    Chris
    Hobart

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Default

    Chris, post some pic's.

    1.How to remove the left hand cone? I'd squirt some lubricant into the threads
    2.Do I have to move the inner wide dish if so how can I move it without damaging it? Pic required
    3.I assume I need nuts and washers to hold the wheels on, what are they called so I can try and source some? Go to an Engineering supplies place and ask or google the make and model grinder
    4.What are felt wheel s used for? Honing blades/chisels
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
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    63
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    316

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haggismuncher View Post
    1.How to remove the left hand cone?
    Just in case you hadn't realised, the LH side is a left-hand thread.
    Undo with a shifter or spanner and give the handle a firm belt with a hammer to shock the cone undone, while holding the RH wheel to stop the shaft rotating.
    The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Munruben, Qld
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    10,027

    Default

    Try WD40 . just a reminder that the left side cone will be a left handed thread.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blu_Rock View Post
    Just in case you hadn't realised, the LH side is a left-hand thread.
    Undo with a shifter or spanner and give the handle a firm belt with a hammer to shock the cone undone, while holding the RH wheel to stop the shaft rotating.
    I start by taking the RH wheel off.
    - put two nuts back on the RHS and lock these together.
    - holding the RHS with a spanner, take the LHS wheel off (like BR says - don't forget its LH thread).
    - unlock the two RHS nuts and you are done.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Further to the above, don't use the grey wheel unless you plan to grind HSS. It will burn all plane and bench chisel blades unless you are very experienced at grinding (i.e. very light touch).

    Wheels for grinding are best chosen from the coarse end of the spectrum - run cooler. HSS is a different story - use whatever you like.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Further to the above, don't use the grey wheel unless you plan to grind HSS. It will burn all plane and bench chisel blades unless you are very experienced at grinding (i.e. very light touch).
    I agree about the grey wheels and sharpening, but grinders can be used for more than sharpening. eg for just just shaping a bit of mild steel the grey wheels are fine.

  9. #8
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    Mar 2008
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    South Hobart, Hobart, Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I agree about the grey wheels and sharpening, but grinders can be used for more than sharpening. eg for just just shaping a bit of mild steel the grey wheels are fine.
    Thanks to all for their help and suggestions.

    I had been told to use the white one for grinding planes, chisels etc the grey is for general grinding, I thought I'd better get something harder so I don't wear away the white one doing general grinding in the workshop.

    I was aware of the reverse thread, still could get he bugger to move. My Father in Law (who actually gave me the grinder) managed to release the left hand one, it is handy having my own precision engineer on call.
    I will head off to get spacers and nuts next weekend.

    Chris

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    etc the grey is for general grinding, I thought I'd better get something harder so I don't wear away the white one doing general grinding in the workshop.
    Chris

    That is exactly what will cause overheating. Ideally you want wheels that are both coarse and soft wheels, something around 46 grit. Get rid of the grey!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Chris

    That is exactly what will cause overheating. Ideally you want wheels that are both coarse and soft wheels, something around 46 grit. Get rid of the grey!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek, when grinding mild steel eg for a welding job, it doesn't matter if it gets hot, it's going to get a lot hotter when its welded. I reserve my white wheels for sharpening. However, when shaping a bit of irregularly shaped mild steel for a welding job it can quickly mangle a soft white wheel meaning the wheel will need serious dressing before it can be used for sharpening. So why waste a white wheel when a crumby grey one does the job? I have 1 white, 2 grey and one blue, one wire wheel and one buffing station.

  12. #11
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    If "general grinding" refers to anything other than a bench plane/chisel blade, then I agree. I think I missed the intent of the earlier message.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    If "general grinding" refers to anything other than a bench plane/chisel blade, then I agree. I think I missed the intent of the earlier message.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

    Thaks for that. I wasn't clear with my reply. The "general grinding" was basically for everything non woodworking. I had been told just to use the white for grinding of woodworking chisels and planes.

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