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Thread: Doweling jigs.....again.
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26th September 2012, 08:09 PM #1
Doweling jigs.....again.
I recently did a project involving 68 individually aligned and measured dowels (will post pics of it later) without the aid of a jig . Since then, I have developed an almost maniacal urge to get one, especially with my new love for metal free joinery
So, I've done my research. On my initial list are the Haron products, or the Stanley #59 (if I can find one). An OzzieJig would be perfect, but they don't seem to exist anymore. Would love a JessEm or a DowelMax, but at around US$ each, they're a bit beyond me.
Ideally, I'd like a jig with multiple drill points, like the JessEm and DowelMax, to make multiple dowels easier to align.
Any suggestions? Would want to keep it under AU$100
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26th September 2012 08:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th September 2012, 10:24 AM #2
I have two jigs, one is a cheapy chinese copy of the Stanley. I must admit, even if it was a genuine item I wouldn't be much of a fan of this tool. I only ever use it for joining thin rails like in chairs and tables etc. I can't see any use personally for the other types/brands.
The other jig I made from solid ally with holes 1" apart, this can be indexed along boards like the Ozziejig. A lip along one edge maintains the hole at a set distance from the board edge and allows me to make perfectly flush corner joints. If you have access to a bench or pillar drill and some metal bar I can show you how to make one easily enough. At a pinch you could also knock one out from hardwood but even with careful use it probably would only last the life of one project.
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27th September 2012, 06:19 PM #3
Watch out for metric/imperial imbalance if you decide to go for a Stanley!
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27th September 2012, 09:51 PM #4
Cheers guys
I've had a closer look at a mates Stanley jig, and I'm not so impressed with it either. I rekon for now I'll just stick with what I have, and do hardwood jigs for specific large jobs if required.
Down the track, I might try a home made steel one like u mentioned
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27th September 2012, 10:10 PM #5
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27th September 2012, 11:55 PM #6
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28th September 2012, 10:26 AM #7Ring Master
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Hello Chief Tiff,
I would be interested for instructions on how you made a dowelling jig with aluminium sheet.
regards, Ned
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28th September 2012, 01:31 PM #8
I'd quite like to see one myself! It wasn't made from sheet but from round bar that I machined into the exact shape that I wanted. Basically you take a length of square bar (let's say 16/16mm) 150mm long, then drill 6 X 8mm holes along the centre of one side, 25mm apart and the first/last holes 12.5mm from each end. Lastly take a bit of flat bar about 1-2mm thick and about 19mm wide, fix that onto one side of the bar to provide a lip. The cross section will be a sort of "L" shape. I machined mine from solid because that's all I had available to me at that time.
DSCF2052.jpg
DSCF2053.jpg16mm gives you a good size for kitchen cabinet work with 16mm melamine coated partical board, if you make the bar 19mm that would be good for normal cabinet work. The holes can of course be changed to suit your design.
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28th September 2012, 01:47 PM #9
The problem as I see it with any dowelling jig is the extra hurdle to get the swarf out of the hole, because if it does not escape then one or more of a few things will happen:
- the hole will be burnt (probably no big deal)
- the drill will be blued
- the hole may be inaccurate dia
- shudder during drilling may develop (I experienced this yesterday with a 13mm forstner going into a 15mm deep hole, and yes the bit was sharp and a good brand)
- it's harder to drill into the depth required
The only way I can see of overcoming this is to bring the drill up out of the hole with more frequency than usual to get rid of the swarf.
That's just about 2 cents worth.
FF
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28th September 2012, 03:00 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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I like your jig, CT, but there is one problem, same as I have with my old Stanley 59 jig, is to align the position of the holes against a pencil mark on both sides of the workpieces to be joined.
Your jig elegantly makes the holes align in one plane on each of the two workpieces, but you still have to make sure the holes exactly align in the other plane.
how have you overcome this problem?regards,
Dengy
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29th September 2012, 08:25 AM #11
Assuming I understand your question correctly, the lip acts as a reference for joining two items together (and these can also be of two different thicknesses). Where an overhang is required then a pencil mark is placed on one piece where the edge of the other side is required to fit and the jig clamped down against it with the other edge (non-lipped) used as the reference.
For where to start the line of holes I usually use the end of the jig as a reference, either by using it flush against the workpiece and selecting either the first or second hole to start drilling (remember that the first hole is 1/2" away from the edge), or stick a dowel into the first hole and use that as a reference peg.
Lastly, again you can always draw the interception points on the timber and clamp the jig to those lines.
What this jig won't do is align against with an "X" over a specific hole position; you need to use external references.
However.......
a single hole jig with clearly marked centrelines extending from the face and turned around each corner and down each side will...instead of an "X" you need to draw proper centerlines for where the hole needs to be, then just line up your marks on the jig the those centrelines and your jig hole will be positioned over the desired position.
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