Another drill press thread

[access_denied]

So been looking at the other threads but time to get my own recommendation.

Won't be getting it for a while but trying to sort out options now. Will only be using it with wood and not too frequently as will only be weekend woodworker, but I still want a quality unit with high precision, preferably just bench mount not pedestal.

Have been looking at all the online stores I can find and basically everything from carbatec, kincrome, h&f, detroit, trademaster, renegade, bearcat etc all look to be similar generic chinese machines with just a different name printed on them.

The only exception I could see were the Jet machines, particularly the jdp-15 but I can't really find any proper reviews of it, just reviews on amazon which are either it's the best thing since sliced bread or its a garbage pile that started falling apart as soon as they started lifting it out of the box.

I don't have a budget for it, naturally a $5000 industrial machine is out of the question but I don't mind spending the $1200ish on something like the Jet if it is actually better, but would be stupid too if there was practically no difference over say a $400 generic machine.

Just after something with minimal chuck wobble that will do consistent repeatable holes and won't die after a few uses.

[BobL]

Can you clarify what you mean by "high precision"?

[wood spirit]

With the budget you are offering there should be plenty available - brand new. The metal guys will tell you about accuacy> Mine is a cheap nasty small chinese piece of @#@# however by changing the 1/3 "HP" original moter to an old washing machine moter also marked as 1/3 HP about doubled the grunt. Currently trying to fix my auction buy (floor standing 1 HP 16 speed with broken bits on the rise and fall -wasn't aware of that at the time -but for $80 was worth it for the chuck and motor) Second hand will always drop the price, but gain wear and tear -some are virtualy new reguards usage as well.

[access_denied]

By high precision I just mean consistent repeatability, for instance the $100 junk i have if you do multiple holes then one might be slightly (by slightly I do mean just a slight amount) larger or out of shape due to the wobble etc or after setting up getting a near perfect 90deg hole to the face of the piece but after half a dozen or so it's no longer as perfect.

There are plenty available new but they all just look like the same chinese stuff with a different sticker on them, so trying to find out if they are all just the same thing in different packaging or if some of them are actually better.

[BobL]

By high precision I just mean consistent repeatability, for instance the $100 junk i have if you do multiple holes then one might be slightly (by slightly I do mean just a slight amount) larger or out of shape due to the wobble etc or after setting up getting a near perfect 90deg hole to the face of the piece but after half a dozen or so it's no longer as perfect.

There are plenty available new but they all just look like the same chinese stuff with a different sticker on them, so trying to find out if they are all just the same thing in different packaging or if some of them are actually better.

"Slightly out of position" has much less to do with the drill as it does with other factors, the biggest one being able to accurately/reproducibly locating the workpiece in the right position under the drill bit. This then relies on setting up and using a fence, or an x-y table of some kind. A well made fence or sturdy X-Y table can even make the cheapest DP look good.

Holes 90º to the face of the piece have a similar issue. Like real estate it's again about location, fence setups and clamping. So being able to set up the DP table and lock it into position. I use a digital angle finder (DAF) that attaches magnetically to the bit, zero the DAF and transfer it to the workpiece and adjust the workpiece surface so its 90º.

The other factor is the drill bit being incorrectly sharpened so it preferentially cuts with one edge can throw the bit out and drill an oversize hole, but this is no fault of the drill press.

One KPI that can lead to sloppy (oversize) holes is runout or wobble. This can be of the DP itself but also the chuck,/chucks but even the cheapest DPs will usually have runout that is OK for woodwork (maybe not so for MW). Run out as a function of longevity can be an issue but usually only if the drill is maltreated. Unless you buy an industrial drill then the one thing I would consider changing is the chuck as stock keyed chucks tend to be a lottery in terms of runout.

What can matter significantly in relation to all of above is how heavily built the DP is. A slightly built drill head and table can easily flex and wear more under heavy use which can then throw holes out of alignment. If you can afford an industrial quality DP and want it to last then maybe consider a heavier duty model than you first envisaged.

I would concern myself more with things like depth of throat (deeper means better access - but also more flex), length of quill travel (drills longer holes without repositioning the work) and how heavy the drill is (less flex and better support all round). Variable speed is also worth having if your budget stretch that far.

Older drill presses like Toughs and of course Waldowns are worth considering if they are in good condition.

[hurcorh]

Agree with BobL, an old waldown in good nick will outlast a large % of the new products available in that price range IMO. Before getting mine I was looking at the METEX brand of presses but couldn't find much info from anyone who had owned or used one.

[orraloon]

Have to agree on the waldown. My brother was lucky enough to snag one from the skip when his former work place closed down. Beautiful machine. I made him an offer but he is not parting with it.
Regards
John

[access_denied]

Thank you all for the information, I think I might look at a 750w sherwood the next time they have them on sale.

[wsal]

Another vote for Waldown - keep an eye on ebay, they come up 2nd hand quite often (there are a few on there now). Nice sturdy, heavy construction

[malb]

A lot of the drills of Asian origin have a sloppy fit between the quill and head casting caused by poor machining in the factory. This allows the drill tip to contact the work in a fairly random position relative to the desired point. There is a simple test for this, grasp the chuck body in the left hand and slowly feed the quill down through its range of travel while trying to wobble the chuck in all directions. Any movement evident is a sign of poor machining, usually bell mouthing in the quill bore in the casting.

Note that movement will not normally be evident when the quill is either fully extended or retracted as in either case stops will pull the quill into a predetermined position and mask it.

Rigidity in the column and table system are also critical to accuracy, and many machines out there are somewhat lacking, allowing the column to bow or the table surface and mounting hardware to flex under static loads (heavy material placed on them) or dynamic loads (attempting to drill through hard materials with significant feed forces applied through the quill). If the table is able to move for either of these, the hole will not be perpendicular to the surface, and may be out of position as well.