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Thread: What sort of lubricant?
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11th May 2016, 10:33 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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What sort of lubricant?
Acquired a 2nd hand bench drill press:
No brand name
Made in Taiwan
Year of manufacture = 1984
Motor = 1/3hp
Spindle = RJ 2 1/2
All this info in on a plaque at the head of the press
Chuck = Rexon RJ 6-13L (engraved on the chuck)
I have basically no experience in "refurbishing" or maintaining such a piece of equipment or in assessing its wear & tear but, judging by the state of the paint, lack of rust and the condition of the electrical wiring it must have been kept well sheltered and I do not think that it has been overworked and/or mistreated.I have cleaned it the best I could and lubricated the column and the sliding collar of the table with a dry lubricant containing PFTE (?). What lubricant should I use to facilitate sliding the column back into the actual head of the press? Could I use the same product to lubricate grub screws and other threaded parts?
All advice gratefully received
Cheers yvanLast edited by yvan; 11th May 2016 at 10:42 PM. Reason: spelling of Lubricant....
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11th May 2016 10:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th May 2016, 11:01 PM #2
Threaded parts should be coated lightly with an anti seize paste.
Something like this LOCTITE Heavy Duty Anti-Seize - LoctiteThose were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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11th May 2016, 11:51 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I always use anti seize on bolts that are going to be exposed to the elements but to assemble the head of a drill press onto its column I would just use a layer of grease as I think anti seize is not required. Anti seize is usually just a heavy oil (or grease) with a metal powder like nickel or copper added to stop the two surfaces from galling together under extreme pressure.
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12th May 2016, 12:01 AM #4.
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A really neat trick to stop parts rusting together and not get grease everywhere is to clean the mating surfaces back to pare metal and paint them with a copper sulphate solution. The copper deposits out as copper metal. An old car mechanic taught me that trick for brake drums and disc brake.
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12th May 2016, 02:48 PM #5
I recall that in my younger days we used to soak metal parts in copper sulphate for several days to give them a very thin coat of copper. You could see the greenish tinge after a couple of days.
However just painting them may get a few molecules onto the steel but would not provide sufficient copper to do much against rust.
I would simply use a GP grease on any moving parts. As others have suggested nothing on the screws. If you want them to stay in place you could use a Loctite screw lock.
John
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12th May 2016, 02:53 PM #6
As for the copper sulphate you could speed the process by using a battery charger and applying the negative electrode to the part you wanted to coat in copper and then the positive electrode to a sacrificial copper anode(say some copper tubing for instance) placed in the solution but electrically isolated from the part you are trying to coat. That would get you a good coat after several hours.
It would not be particularly durable since copper is quite soft and would wear quite easily.
John
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12th May 2016, 04:23 PM #7.
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You only need a very thin layer to prevent the rust connecting and yes it does need several coats and it depends on having very clean surfaces and a saturated solution of CuSO4 - you can see the Cu coming out of solution happening as you apply it. Vertical fixed surfaces are hardest to apply but all you do is wrap or stick several layers of cloth around the surface and spray with a pump pack.
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12th May 2016, 04:25 PM #8.
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