Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    77
    Posts
    650

    Thumbs down What sort of lubricant?

    Acquired a 2nd hand bench drill press:

    No brand name
    Made in Taiwan
    Year of manufacture = 1984
    Motor = 1/3hp
    Spindle = RJ 2 1/2
    All this info in on a plaque at the head of the press
    Chuck = Rexon RJ 6-13L (engraved on the chuck)

    I have basically no experience in "refurbishing" or maintaining such a piece of equipment or in assessing its wear & tear but, judging by the state of the paint, lack of rust and the condition of the electrical wiring it must have been kept well sheltered and I do not think that it has been overworked and/or mistreated.I have cleaned it the best I could and lubricated the column and the sliding collar of the table with a dry lubricant containing PFTE (?). What lubricant should I use to facilitate sliding the column back into the actual head of the press? Could I use the same product to lubricate grub screws and other threaded parts?

    All advice gratefully received

    Cheers yvan
    Last edited by yvan; 11th May 2016 at 10:42 PM. Reason: spelling of Lubricant....

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Threaded parts should be coated lightly with an anti seize paste.
    Something like this LOCTITE Heavy Duty Anti-Seize - Loctite
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    78
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    I always use anti seize on bolts that are going to be exposed to the elements but to assemble the head of a drill press onto its column I would just use a layer of grease as I think anti seize is not required. Anti seize is usually just a heavy oil (or grease) with a metal powder like nickel or copper added to stop the two surfaces from galling together under extreme pressure.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    A really neat trick to stop parts rusting together and not get grease everywhere is to clean the mating surfaces back to pare metal and paint them with a copper sulphate solution. The copper deposits out as copper metal. An old car mechanic taught me that trick for brake drums and disc brake.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    A really neat trick to stop parts rusting together and not get grease everywhere is to clean the mating surfaces back to pare metal and paint them with a copper sulphate solution. The copper deposits out as copper metal. An old car mechanic taught me that trick for brake drums and disc brake.
    I recall that in my younger days we used to soak metal parts in copper sulphate for several days to give them a very thin coat of copper. You could see the greenish tinge after a couple of days.

    However just painting them may get a few molecules onto the steel but would not provide sufficient copper to do much against rust.

    I would simply use a GP grease on any moving parts. As others have suggested nothing on the screws. If you want them to stay in place you could use a Loctite screw lock.

    John

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
    Posts
    735

    Default

    As for the copper sulphate you could speed the process by using a battery charger and applying the negative electrode to the part you wanted to coat in copper and then the positive electrode to a sacrificial copper anode(say some copper tubing for instance) placed in the solution but electrically isolated from the part you are trying to coat. That would get you a good coat after several hours.

    It would not be particularly durable since copper is quite soft and would wear quite easily.

    John

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yanis View Post
    I recall that in my younger days we used to soak metal parts in copper sulphate for several days to give them a very thin coat of copper. You could see the greenish tinge after a couple of days.

    However just painting them may get a few molecules onto the steel but would not provide sufficient copper to do much against rust.
    You only need a very thin layer to prevent the rust connecting and yes it does need several coats and it depends on having very clean surfaces and a saturated solution of CuSO4 - you can see the Cu coming out of solution happening as you apply it. Vertical fixed surfaces are hardest to apply but all you do is wrap or stick several layers of cloth around the surface and spray with a pump pack.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yanis View Post
    It would not be particularly durable since copper is quite soft and would wear quite easily.
    It's not really a wear situation - its just the head of the DP sitting on the shaft.

Similar Threads

  1. What sort of Dad are you?
    By rwbuild in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 23rd June 2014, 09:06 AM
  2. How do I do this sort of cut?
    By l3rodey in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 26th March 2014, 06:41 PM
  3. WIP sort of
    By jerryc in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 27th November 2008, 10:13 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •