Thread: Need a cylindrical nut for my table saw

If you are unable to source a spare part you will have to have it made I doubt you will find an off the shelf item

Looks like standard thread so you can probably get it "heli coiled".

Mild steel bar, hack saw, drill, drill press, tap, tap holder.

Cut the steel bar to length with a hack saw.

Hold the bar in the drill vice - if you don't have a drill vice you can probably make a jig to hold it. Center punch the bar and drill a pilot hole. Then drill the hole for the tap.

Using cutting fluid, any mineral oil should suffice, tap the hole using the tap.

Depending on what you have already this will be much cheaper than getting it made.

John

Originally Posted by Yanis

Mild steel bar, hack saw, drill, drill press, tap, tap holder.

Cut the steel bar to length with a hack saw.

Hold the bar in the drill vice - if you don't have a drill vice you can probably make a jig to hold it. Center punch the bar and drill a pilot hole. Then drill the hole for the tap.

Using cutting fluid, any mineral oil should suffice, tap the hole using the tap.

Depending on what you have already this will be much cheaper than getting it made.

John

That's exactly how I make them. An x-y vise helps for positioning. Best to file a flat for the punch and pilot hole. Faster to make one than search for it.

Cheers,
Joe

Helicoil in the nut is the obvious solution but you might need to put one in from both ends to get the thread length required. Another possibility might be to go up in size on the threaded bar and retap the nut to fit. Switching from metric to imperial might give you the fine size adjustment you need.

As a "do it yourself " project, looking at the diam. of the thread, unless you had access to the taps, the cost of purchase of taps would be high.
Just a thought.

thanks for the ideas I will give the drill and tap a piece of bar a crack. Not sure why I didn't think of that myself.

Originally Posted by ranga_rod

thanks for the ideas I will give the drill and tap a piece of bar a crack. Not sure why I didn't think of that myself.

If you have not used a tap before make sure you you-tube it. The latest Mathias Wendel video is a good start.

John

Originally Posted by Yanis

If you have not used a tap before make sure you you-tube it. The latest Mathias Wendel video is a good start.

John

Machinery's Handbook states that 60% thread engagement is usually satisfactory. Most tap drills provide 75%. If you find tapping perilous, you can increase the size of the pilot hole until you're comfortable. For your application, even 50% would probably be OK.

Cheers,
Joe

G'day Ranga Rod, The first thing you must do is identify the existing thread; ie its diameter at the unworn ends of the rod and the thread pitch. Find someone locally who has either a vernier or a micrometer, and a set of thread gauges. There must be someone in Brunswick who operates an auto repair business (ie someone who actually works on engines and transmissions.). Ask them to make the measurements. From a German-made Sheppach machine, it's probably metric. From your photo, the thread diameter looks like 12mm and if it's a standard metric pitch, the pitch should be either 1.75mm (coarse) or 1.25mm (fine). Also, Bunnings sells threaded rod (known as Brooker bar) in about 1m lengths (I think) in metric and imperial diameters; try them for size against your piece of rod and use their nut collection on your worn rod to help identify which thread is cut on your rod. And just to be sure,use a bolt to do the same with your cylindrical nut. Then get back to me. Regards, Grumpy