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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    1

    Default I must be getting Old - Drill Press / General Machinery Guidance

    Hi Guys,

    First post on the site so be gentle

    Starting with a bit of background. I've been working on cars/bikes/boats as a hobbyist for 10 years or so. II must be getting old as I'm sick of "making do" with the tools that I've got to make the parts that I need. It's also worth noting that my work is 95% metalwork and I'm self taught being a builder by day. I want to build a decent workshop with the 3 major items purchased in the short term (1 year) being a drill press, lathe and mill. I've tried to be as detailed as I can with my questions below regarding the drill press. Please note I'm not looking for new gear as I can't afford anything more than some kind of Taiwanese/Chinese gear that are really hit and miss on the reviews. Also I'm a strong proponent of the "They don't make them like they used to" phrase.

    Drill Press Option 1 - Classic

    I've been watching the Waldowns, Servians and Richardsons going through the auctions the last couple of days. I'd love one of these old precision made machines. My only concern is that because of their age I find little information on their actual specifics such as speeds, quill travel, morse taper etc. Due to their location more often than not I wouldn't get a hands on with them prior to the auction end. I don't have any concerns with rebuilding, repairing one of these old beauties. To be honest I get a kick out of restoring gear like that. Should I be concerned too much with the lack of specifics or do the quality of these machines shine through? Heres an example of what I mean.

    Drill press Auction (0517-7002485) | GraysOnline Australia

    Drill Press Option 2 - Slightly Newer

    Ok so with the 90's forward units you can get a once $2000 unit that is now at the same price range as the classics. I can generally find all the specifics on quill travel, speeds, morse taper, tooling etc. But generally they don't have that name backing that the old classics relied on. Plus they're not as pretty. Here's an example of what I mean from the same lot as the Richardson.

    Rexon pedestal drill press Auction (0343-7002486) | GraysOnline Australia


    It would be great if someone could give me some guidance from their experience.


    Now the 3 Phase Single Phase Question

    Due to work commitments I move relatively regularly between Brisbane and the Gold Coast. As a result I've got no chance of getting a rental with 3 phase. Whats the consensus on buying 3 phase machines and either replacing the motor or running an inverter? Is it worthwhile from a cost/quality point of view or do you lose too much grunt? Also are their issue with the heavier spinning stock of 3 phase machines taking too much start up load for single phase motor conversions?


    Sorry for the long post guys but I really want to start getting longevity and reliability in my workshop. My hobby tasks in the workshop are the only thing keeping me sane with the construction industry in its current state.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern Beaches, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    329

    Default

    A lot of the older stuff is better made by far, less prone to vibration ( heavier, thicker cast iron construction ) easily modified etc and once restored looks fantastic and very useable.
    Speeds can be adjusted by replacing pulley sizes as well.
    I have a couple of older three phase machines in storage until we do our major reno and I'm tossing up whether to front up with the cost of having the new place wired for three phase , going via the VFD route for each machine or even getting a three phase converter like this one
    Single to Three phase converter, Lathe, Mill, Bandsaw & Press | eBay
    I have a mate who is a fitter and turner and he has successfully used both VFD's ( for 2 - 5HP 3Phase )as well as a converter for up to 10HP.
    Swapping the 3Ph for a singlePh motor is OK up to a point. Once you start to look at decent brand 3HP and up 240v motors you are looking at top dollar as well as ( depending on the specs ) a dedicated 15-20 amp circuit. Then there is the issue as you say of losing the grunt going from 3Ph ( 90 % ) to 1Ph ( 70% ) efficiency.
    It will really depend on the machines you buy and the HP required.
    You may want to post this question in the metalwork section as well.
    There would be quite a few guys here running 3Ph machines in either forum on any of the methods described above.

    Stewie

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