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  1. #1
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    Sep 2013
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    Jarrahdale WA
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    Default Help with a Compressor problem...

    As a relative metalwork "virgin" I'm seeking assistance in Perth WA...

    The story so far...

    Thought my Ryobi Airwave compressor could do with a second Nitto Outlet. When I screwed it in the cheapass Aluminium casting split.
    Excellent chance to upgrade I thought...
    Mapped out how I could swap all the pieces over to brass fittings...

    But, when attempting to unscrew fron the tank, the aluminium snapped, flush with the steel take off, due to the thread sealant used, I'm pretty confident...so now I have a problem.

    Thoughts are that I can drill out most of the aluminium with the appropriate drill and the use a tap (20mm I'm pretty sure) to clean out the threads...but not having done before...can anyone here with more experience assist?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    bilpin
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    Default

    An "Easy Out" should solve the problem.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Jarrahdale WA
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    Default

    Hey rustynail,

    Thanks for the reply.. I'm pretty confident that's not an option as the threat sealant is rock hard. As in "bash the remaning piece in a circular motion with a hammer and punch, to no effect" type stuck..

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Tallahassee FL USA
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    4,651

    Default

    Blast it with a torch or heat gun for a while. Many thread lockers give up the ghost that way. Then use the easy-out.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    494

    Default

    The frustrating thing with your situation is the alum fittings may be too soft for an "easy out" to work properly. Particularly if the thread sealant used has been generously applied.

    I'd attempt to remove it with the following steps

    1) Heat up the takeoff and try Easy out
    2) Try to attach bolt/pole that will allow you to unscrew the fitting, eg threading the alum fitting and epoxy a bolt to the fitting, give it a few gently blows with a hammer before you epoxy the bolt to see if it'll break the thread sealant
    3) Drill out as much alum as you can and do your approach
    4) Get a new compressor as you've wasted enough time on the cheapo compressor... or you can skip 1-3 give the aggravation a miss and buy a new toy.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,273

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by david.elliott View Post

    Thoughts are that I can drill out most of the aluminium with the appropriate drill and the use a tap (20mm I'm pretty sure) to clean out the threads...but not having done before...can anyone here with more experience assist?
    It won't be a 20mm thread. Air fittings are usually NPT or if it's in the body of the compressor it may be BSP. Probably 3/4" if it looks to be 20mm
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    "just because I donít need the lathe doesnít mean the beer isnít cold" - Grand Master Flett

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    23,182

    Default

    David, I have easy outs and NPT/BSP taps you can borrow if you have to drill it out.

    I also may be driving down to Pinjarra later this week if we can get our car back from the panel beater's

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
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    282

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    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    It won't be a 20mm thread. Air fittings are usually NPT or if it's in the body of the compressor it may be BSP. Probably 3/4" if it looks to be 20mm
    See, experience in action...
    3/4 it must be...

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Jarrahdale WA
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    Default

    Hey BobL,

    I commute to work in Burswood each day...and can travel at lunchtime... Not sure if that's of use?

    Heat could be a good idea? But knowing how hard I turned it before it snapped I'm thinking to go whole hog and drill & tap at the outset...as others have said, enough time...

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.elliott View Post
    Hey BobL,

    I commute to work in Burswood each day...and can travel at lunchtime... Not sure if that's of use?

    Heat could be a good idea? But knowing how hard I turned it before it snapped I'm thinking to go whole hog and drill & tap at the outset...as others have said, enough time...
    I am just down the road - shoot me a PM to get in touch.

  12. #11
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    Apr 2011
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    se Melbourne
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    If all else fails, time for a new compressor. Think of the swarf and other crud that might get into the tank and be hard to remove, only to come out the air line at an unexpected time.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Jarrahdale WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    If all else fails, time for a new compressor. Think of the swarf and other crud that might get into the tank and be hard to remove, only to come out the air line at an unexpected time.
    Yep, thinking a rinse out with something (?) will be a must... not sure what though. I hesitate to splash out on a new one, I've only had this about 8 months. It's done a bit of work, but still only 8 months..

    Many thanks to BobL. I dove past his place yesterday arvo and he generously lent me a couple of taps with matching drill and the handle... Thanks BobL... and long live the Forum!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    I hope they work for you Dave

    When I had to do a similar thing to an old compressor I just used turps. I used a near full 4L bottle and poured the whole lot into the tank - swished it around and tipped it out. Left the metal bits and watery/oily sludge settle and decanted off the clear turps and repeated that a couple of times till I could see nothing. There was almost certainly a bit of compressor oil transferred into the turps but it was still more than good enough to clean paint brushes etc so it was not wasted.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
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    Default

    So,
    I need to use the 1/2 inch tap, or at least the one labelled that, that I was lent by BobL... Still no idea how the sizes work, BUT I do know it's a LOT bigger that 1/2 inch.

    Looking at drill size I need a 45/64ths, and can find nobody that stocks one in WA. Ideas?

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
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    73
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    837

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by david.elliott View Post
    So,
    I need to use the 1/2 inch tap, or at least the one labelled that, that I was lent by BobL... Still no idea how the sizes work, BUT I do know it's a LOT bigger that 1/2 inch.

    Looking at drill size I need a 45/64ths, and can find nobody that stocks one in WA. Ideas?
    The size is the nominal bore of the pipe that is screwed into the hole. The OD is constant but the inside varies as the pipe wall thickness changes for the various pressure ratings.

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