Thread: Help With Drill Press Chuck Removal

1) Make sure your drift is reasonably smooth, no big bumps, burrs, or dings that may affect it sliding in and wedging the taper out.

2) Put a heat gun on the spindle to heat it up, don't go crazy, but to the point where it's "hot" to touch. Ideally you're trying to heat the spindle while keeping the taper as cool as possible. Difficult as the heat will be transferred through the taper seat, but keep in the back of your mind that you're trying to heat the spindle only.

3) Bigger hammer. Morse tapers can seat very tightly and can sometimes take quite a hit to unseat them.

Pete

drillsets

has a type of MT arbor drift that doesn't need a hammer.

Jordan

a bit of penetrating oil can sometime loosen...

Have you got the drift orientated correctly? Not sure if it makes a difference, but, having the top edge level will mean the belting force will be against the chuck arbour rather than the quill, at least by my thinking.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Pete F

1) Make sure your drift is reasonably smooth, no big bumps, burrs, or dings that may affect it sliding in and wedging the taper out.

2) Put a heat gun on the spindle to heat it up, don't go crazy, but to the point where it's "hot" to touch. Ideally you're trying to heat the spindle while keeping the taper as cool as possible. Difficult as the heat will be transferred through the taper seat, but keep in the back of your mind that you're trying to heat the spindle only.

3) Bigger hammer. Morse tapers can seat very tightly and can sometimes take quite a hit to unseat them.

Pete

Thanks Pete. I understad what you are saying with the heat process and will keep it as alast resort option. Could be a delicate operation and I will need to protect the quill and bearings as much as possible.

Originally Posted by nadroj

drillsets

has a type of MT arbor drift that doesn't need a hammer.

Jordan

Thanks Jordan. Perhaps a good option forthe future. Must be better than belting it.

Originally Posted by Enfield Guy

Have you got the drift orientated correctly? Not sure if it makes a difference, but, having the top edge level will mean the belting force will be against the chuck arbour rather than the quill, at least by my thinking.

Cheers

Thanks EG. Yep got it around the right way.

If all that fails and you can make a new drift with a lower angle it will put more force on pushing the chuck out per hit

Russell

Originally Posted by rusel

If all that fails and you can make a new drift with a lower angle it will put more force on pushing the chuck out per hit

Russell

Thanks Russell. I made a low angle drift that fits snugly across the full width of the tang at the end of the arbor. After banging away for the past half hour or so all I have achieved is to create a trench/indent in the tang and spreading it possibly making it even harder to get it out. I can't help thinking now that it must be stuck in there with Loctite 406 or similar. Think I will have to pull the spindel out and take it to an engineering shop to see if they can help.

Now that a bugger................
Yes sound like it going to be easer to work on if taken out.
If it has been glue you will need to heat it up till the glue is at 110c as most glue fail at this temperature. and then try your low drift again...
I can understand it being glue.... I have a similar drill and the chuck keeped falling out when ever there is any vibration...not so bad now I reseated it

Russell