Thread: JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides for Hammer K3

I just had a random thought on using the rip fence, the slider could be locked and a feather board(s) fixed to the slot on the slider to keep the board against the fence.

Chris, I have done that using this feather board (moved to the wagon) ...



The issue I had with this process, and the reason I went for the JessEm, was that there is a tendency for the board to lift. Using the feather board on the rip fence prevented the work piece lifting.

But your post raises a question: I have found that an unsupported work piece can lift on the K3 when the rip fence is used (Hence the JessEm and vertical feather board). Does anyone else experience this?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

...Graeme, the technique you mention sounds very risky, if I understand you correctly! Can you take a few photos and post them here? It is better that I do not guess or infer your intention here. I would like to hold onto my hands! .....

Sorry, don't have access to the slider at the moment as the workshop is in lockdown, so cannot do photos.

I know it sounds risky, Derek, but I do not think it actually is. I was very apprehensive when I first saw it, but I am now comfortable with it.

Key factors are:

• Timber is always held firmly against the fence,
• Riving knife helps guide timber.

I have never heard of or seen any accidents or near accidents with the technique.

Remember, I was very sceptical at first.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Chris, I have done that using this feather board (moved to the wagon) ...



The issue I had with this process, and the reason I went for the JessEm, was that there is a tendency for the board to lift. Using the feather board on the rip fence prevented the work piece lifting.

But your post raises a question: I have found that an unsupported work piece can lift on the K3 when the rip fence is used (Hence the JessEm and vertical feather board). Does anyone else experience this?

Regards from Perth

Derek

All I can think of is the blade you are using is causing it, beyond that I have no ideas.

Nice rig Derek. Thanks for sharing it. I have a 90mm high fence on my Minimax. Jessem suggest a maximum depth of 85mm for the the TS guides extended and at 30 degrees. In your practical experience does that only limit very thin stock from their application (i'm assuming 90mm fence height on the K3)? Have you had cause to use the guides in a more upright position and did you notice any lift on the fence? Can you get by with a one man op on long rips using the guides? Is the downward tension adjustable? Do you find your cuts are cleaner with the constant pressure of the guides vs featherboards? Thanks in advance. Shane.

Hi Shane

The JessEm guides have not appeared to be limited down to 3mm thick boards. Down force, per se, is not adjustable, but built into the set up when you adjust it for board height. The real value of these guides is to force the work piece against the fence, and this leads to a very clean cut. For a saw with a splitter/riving knife, there should be no concern for kickback anyway, but the JessEm adds extra security in this area.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you for response Derek. Regards Shane.