Thread: Jet or Delta

many of these saws of that era are generic, so the Delta/Jet thing doesn't surprise me. They probably are identical except for the tag and maybe a decal to name them. Delta maintained roughly that colour and Jet went a different way, but on a year 2000 model they clearly didn't, If you also look in this forum area you'll see the same saw guts in many different guises, including my own Hafco ST-12 from 2003. This one's fence looks identical to mine, but the slider parts are definitely different.

Personally I'd agree with your price guide, especially for the apparent condition it's in (looking in the motor in your first picture you can see a lot of crud left in there; it could be superficial but it doesn't show it's been lovingly cared for either). I guess your challenge is you probably don't see as many 2nd hand units as in a capital city...

Just my opinion, however the price seems high for the condition shown in the photos. I wouldn’t be surprised if the asking price back in 2000 is close to what they are asking now - and it’s not what you would call a vintage classic.

It might clean up ok, but I would be concerned about general wear and tear and you might end up cursing every time you need to adjust something.

There were, and still are, a bunch of machines that seem to come out of the same factory with very similar specifications. Depending on the retailer they might tweak the specifications ever so slightly or just change the colour and branding. I would have thought that in mid 2000 Jet seemed to have changed to the white colour scheme.

Thanks for the replies and you are right Ponudy there isnt much choice up here. I might just offer him 300 to 400 and see what happens, then the next challenge is to get it home without getting a fine foe no essential travel.

There's not really a lot that can go wrong with these saws provided people don't actually break parts. If it's only been used for hobby purposes and isn't suffering from rust I would think it's probably worth $500, maybe $600. It does appear to have a reasonable sliding table attachment and that alone has to be worth $100 or more. These saws are pretty easy to work on and can generally be tuned to work to a good standard. To get anything of a similar standard new you'd be spending North of $2,000.

A quick search shows that the 10" model with an open base was much more common than the 12" model, but apart from motor HP both models are virtually the same.

Like @Aldav said, there's not much that can go wrong (although I hit a few hiccups I talked through in this thread), and they're worth the effort. Especially if you can negotiate the price - and like Aldav I'd be thinking if the table is not overly rusted/pitted and reasonably well maintained that I'd be offering up in the 500/600 area, knowing that there are certainly other options less than the $2k that Aldav quotes, even if you have to "compromise" with only 10" blade diam.

As for non-essential, you've sold a piece before, right? Even if it was only to cover your costs of timber, right? Or you've made something and given it away so you didn't have to buy something, right? All monetary value, and I'd be playing the card like "yes officer I need this to expand my available tools so I can build more stuff to keep my family fed in these trying times". I may have prepared that in case I needed to go out to buy more timber but I'm happy to loan it to you

Hi Bomber,

Not to distract you from your desire for a Table Saw, but I have a comprehensive Triton 2000 system for sale that I no longer use as I have a table saw which I use now.
This unit is in excellent condition & you would be welcome to inspect it if you wish as we are not all that far from each other.

Kind Regards
Alan

I can't see the sliding table attachment being much use if you're mainly breaking down sheet goods. It won't have enough travel. You'd be needing to build a big table area around the basic saw unit, with infeed and outfeed T-slot extensions to the T-slot in the table, so you can run a crosscut sled right through. Spend on a good new blade, and maybe make a zero-clearance insert. All for reducing tearout in your ply and melamine-face particleboard etc. Good chance there's nothing actually wrong with the machine itself. If anything, it'd be the bearings and they are all in standard sizes, available on eBay and in bearing suppliers. Same with the belt, it's generally replaceable. Motor capacitor, if it blows - ditto - it's all replaceable with generic parts of the right spec.

If your main aim is to break down and prepare sheet goods for cabinetry, you might be better off looking for a decent track saw and parallel guide system, rather than a table saw?

Originally Posted by Gunnaduit

I can't see the sliding table attachment being much use if you're mainly breaking down sheet goods. It won't have enough travel.

The sliding table can still be a huge aid in feeding sheet goods through the saw, it's just that you can't use the mitre guide if the stroke of the slide isn't sufficient. One of the most difficult things about breaking down sheet goods on a table saw is feeding the stock while maintaining the edge against the fence, the sliding table will help with this. Once you have the stock to more manageable sizes the sliding table will be a huge help. By all means do the initial breakdown using a guide and power saw, but you don't have to buy a track saw. It's amazing what can be done without spending a bucket of money if you put your mind to it.

Well now the proud owner of a table saw. big challenge now is to keep all fingers connected. Thanks for the offer Little Boxes but already made the purchase. I did look at a track saw but I do have a saw to cut down the sheets so i went with the table . Thanks again for the replies.