Thread: Linisher Score

Cheers Christos,

I have dismantled the whole thing and taken the obvious rust off.
I have worked out how to extend the belt to a 2m long belt - just have to find a bit of time to cut and shape a bit of steel.
Will take and post some photos one my replacement camera battery charger arrives.

Well I finally have got round to looking at the linisher.

Just to refresh. The linisher as it is takes a non-standard size belt, so rather than go to the expense of having special belts made up I thought I would move the position of the outboard drum/roller so it can take the next longest standard belt size.

Here's what the outboard drum adjustment mechanism looks like.
(sorry about the quality of photos, both my regular cameras use the same battery charger which is dead. I've ordered a new one but meanwhile I'm down to a phone camera)


The alternatives for moving the drum were to
- move the drum base, but this got complicated with requiring the tracking adjustment to be moved as well and the final position of the drum base was not even on the Sander base so the base of the sander itself itself would have to be extended.
- position of the drum shaft hole in the roller base using an outrigger of some kind, which is what I ended up doing.

I started by making the following 4 pieces
- a 20 mm diameter slug (1) to go through the existing drum mounting hole (H) and to hold the outrigger onto the on the drum stand.
- two 10 mm thick steel plates (2 and 3) that form the arms of the outrigger - one of these consisted of two smaller plates welded together - you'll see why later
- and a 38 mm diameter bush (4) with a 20 mm hole for the drum shaft to mount onto at the end of the outrigger.
This bush had 32 mm step turned into each end to sit squarely and precisely in the outrigger



Fortunately none of the parts I have to make are part of the rotation of the belt or drums and any minor deviations from squareness, especially that in the horizontal plane could be taken care of by the belt tracking mechanism, would not be too critical but did my best to make it as square and snug as possible.
This required the use of some big drill bits like a 32 mm bit that I borrowed from work
For comparison, the small bit is a 1/2" bit and the middle bit is my 25 mm bit


This is what the 32 mm bit looked like in the Drill Press

To drill the 32 mm diam hole my 1.5HP DP was set on its lowest gear (normally 160 RPM at the bit) and the VFD was set on about ~15Hz so the bit was rotating at about 40 RPM

Recently I purchase a nice set of adjustable reamers so I was able to use these to get nice snug fits to all the shaft and bore components.
Here is a pic showing the 20 mm and 32 mm reamers. They produce a very smooth hole.


Although I didn't need to for strength I decided to weld the large bush in place either side flush with each outrigger arm as this help would hold the whole thing square.


30 seconds with a flap sander smooths of the weld and another pass with the reamer tidied up the bore.


More in the next post.

Here are a few shots of the outrigger before I welded the large bush to the arms

Now you can see why I used two short plates on the one arm of the outrigger.
I couldn't just extend this outrigger arm all the way out as this would move the drum out of alignment with the sander table and the drive drum, so I had to provide a step back.
This was done by just welding two plates in the matter shown.
The two 6 mm bolt stubs you can see poking out from the outrigger were for the safety cover end of the roller but they now help hold the outrigger true.



This is the other side


And here it is with the pulley mounted



And now with the large drum bush welded to the outrigger arms and Finally altogether back on the sander.


And now with the drum cover






I've also de-rusted the bed and a couple of the other spots.
Here you can see the gap in the bed - having a gap is not all bad as metal workers know a soft spot like this can be useful.
Also I've found an approx colour in a spray can that I can use to paint the outrigger.


Then I have to setup the motor on a VFD.

Looking like a bought one I was going to mention the "soft spot" but yor already there, can be quite handy for creative blending.

Obviously the DP handled the 32mm bit which is good going for that size of machine, the VFD enabled you to get down in speed, with that configuration, Was there plenty of tourqe do that size hole? or did the DP struggle a bit?

Also, you may have them in your set, but if ever you want to do two holes in the same plane but on opposite sides of a bracket, extensions for the adjustable reamers are available that screw straight onto the ends and provide alignment.



Pete

Originally Posted by pjt

Looking like a bought one

Thanks - I'm reasonably happy so far.

I was going to mention the "soft spot" but yor already there, can be quite handy for creative blending.

That's it.

Obviously the DP handled the 32mm bit which is good going for that size of machine, the VFD enabled you to get down in speed, with that configuration, Was there plenty of tourqe do that size hole? or did the DP struggle a bit?

It was struggling but some of that was the bit was definitely too sharply raked for what I was doing so it was too easy for it to dig in. I probably should have reground the end more for the task at hand but I only had two holes to drill and so I just backed off on the pressure and found a sweet spot where it was producing some curlies and eventually we got there.

Also, you may have them in your set, but if ever you want to do two holes in the same plane but on opposite sides of a bracket, extensions for the adjustable reamers are available that screw straight onto the ends and provide alignment.

Yep I am aware of these. I wonder how tricky it would be to make some? The most important hole was the 20 mm diameter bore for the pulley but that was 56 mm long and even that is stationary so it's locked down, I just didn't want it rattling around.

Bob

Did I not read somewhere on this forum that you retired and you have posted that you borrowed the big drill bit from work?

Originally Posted by Christos

Bob
Did I not read somewhere on this forum that you retired and you have posted that you borrowed the big drill bit from work?

Yes I have retired from the paid work force however I now hold an "Adjunct" position at the Uni. This means I do unpaid work - I haven't done very much yet - and in return iI get access things like the on-line Scientific Journals and the workshop facilities. One of my retirement presents was a set of keys to the workshops - this comes in very handy for jobs like these.

I though I had all the bits for this Linisher but it's missing the cross belt fence and I don't like the position it was in anyway so I thought I would cobble one together.

Once again sorry about the quality of the pics but you should get the idea.

In terms of thickness the steel angle I used is over kill but that's what I had available and it should be super solid.
It's easily adjustable and removable.

Finally all painted up and ready to go.
Colour not matching as close as I'd like but close enough for me.









I'm still working on the motor and VFD for it.
Dust extraction also needs a fair bit of attention.

Originally Posted by BobL

Finally all painted up and ready to go.
Colour not matching as close as I'd like but close enough for me.

I'm still working on the motor and

Looks like a bought one to me. Great work!

Cheerio!

John

Originally Posted by John Samuel

Looks like a bought one to me. Great work!
Cheerio!
John

Thanks John, I also have to do something about the dust extraction on it. It has one Alumnium tapering square port attached to the sander over the end of the belt. The port tapers and reduces to a miserable 1.5 x 1.5 " , so I'm going to use your trick if heating a 100 PVC pipe and pushing it over and onto the port. When the PVC has enlarged and is mating OK with the taper I will mark the Al port and cut off as much of the taper as possible. I'll post some pics when I start working on it.

More progress on the Linisher to report

Motor reconfiguration to parallel delta completed.

Originally it was configured as a 2 speed (1500/3000 rpm) serial delta/star motor running at 415V/3 phase
If I was to run it under 240V/3Phase, running it either as serial delta or Star it would have less power.
I have configured it now to run as a parallel delta. SO I have lost the 2 speed capability since it now runs only at ~3000 rpm at 50Hz, but it develops more power than the.
And being on a VFD, to get ~1500 rpm I just have to drop the frequency to 25Hz.
t also should develop more power in parallel delta configuration.

The naked motor has a distinct irritating vibration at 25Hz but by the time I put the belt drum on one side of the motor and the big disc on the other this seems to have dampened most of it out and it is very smooth throughout the range except for a slight hint of vibe at 25 Hz.

If you like looking at pics of the insides of motors then I have posted a few pics starting at post #6 of this thread
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...12#post1767412

Complete rewire, new switch and VFD installed and working fine.

Now I just need to finish assembling everything. Will post a few pics when I have done this.

As promised, a few pics.

Just a reminder of how it started out.


Still missing the drive pulley cover with the dust extraction port currently being modified.
No belts yet so can actually try it but won't be making any dust with it till I have the dust extraction sorted.


I used the 3 and single phase wiring and conduit all attached to an old air con control box I picked up during roadside pick up week.
The wiring was just long enough to fit.


I was going to put VFD start/stop and speed control on the beige no-volt switch box (that's why it's so big) but then realised the VFD is right there within easy reach of operator.
Anyway I've run some cat 5 through the conduit so I can do this in future if I wish,
The VFD is configured to run up to 3600 rpm but motor sounds smooth even at 4000 rpm.
I'd be reluctant to go much above that.

Normal starting and stopping is fine but the VFD doesn't like rapid frequency/speed changes at high speed and it drops into safe mode giving the over current error.
Changing the speed gently it works fine, which is not a bad idea given the mass of metal it is whirling around.




This disc is going to need some dust extraction as well.

Any more thoughts/ideas on the multi disc arrangement Bob?



Pete