Thread: Who makes what and where and does it matter?

Thanks Richard.

Fair enough re dust collection. Good tip about the table insert. Did you think about making your own? (Also, maybe dumb question but how do you cut the hole in that after market insert since its aluminium?)

I've already budgeted separately for blades so no worries there! Speaking of which, what blades do you use most commonly?

The 15A plug seems to be the one potential issue with the Sherwood. If I need a sparkie to get involved then that could eat up the savings from the lower cost of the TS.

With the table insert I guess I could have made one but it would be fiddly given how it fits into the table. As regards cutting the blade hole you just retract the blade the whole way, fit the insert, and bring it up slowly through the insert.

For blades I use a combo blade for cross cutting with 40 teeth, this one here from Carbatec-----> CMT Industrial Rip and Crosscut Blade - 250mm - 40 Tooth | Carbatec

And for dedicated ripping this 24 tooth one from Timbecon------> https://www.timbecon.com.au/industri...lar-saw-blades

No particular reason I went for those blades, it was just down to who had what in stock. They're both fine, the Freud ripping blade in particular is very nice and amazingly quiet when it's cutting. What is important that the kerf of the blades matches the splitter or riving knife, that part is critical for safety reasons.

Do you really need a 12" saw? I went from a 3hp 12" SB-12 contractor saw to a 2.5hp 10" cabinet saw almost solely for the convenience of a quick release guard, riving knife and a better fence and haven't missed the extra two inches. Anything thicker gets cut on the bandsaw and 10" blades are a fair bit cheaper than 12".

Have you considered dust control? You're going to need at least a 2hp dusty. I use the standard 2hp Carbatec one and it works for me, bearing in mind it's only ever connected to one machine at a time on a minimal length of hose. They've all gone up in price since I bought mine about 18 months ago, I paid $1999 for my saw on special and it's now $2309, and the 2hp dusty was $429, now $495.

One thing I have learnt since I got into this hobby big time, and that's buy once, cry once. Whilst it's hard to pay for the more expensive kit early on when you maybe are not sure how much you're going to get into this it's also a pain to look back and regret not having done so. I reckon pretty much everyone on this site has a story to tell about how they would have done things differently back then if they knew what they know now. All you can do is try to pick the right stuff but it's almost certain at some point you'll feel maybe another choice was better, it's all part of the learning process.

The pay off is it's a great hobby, not a cheap one by any means, but hugely satisfying when you make something really nice that you couldn't have afforded to buy as a finished product. Be warned, this stuff is addictive!

Cheers, Richard.

Originally Posted by Biggus

With the table insert I guess I could have made one but it would be fiddly given how it fits into the table. As regards cutting the blade hole you just retract the blade the whole way, fit the insert, and bring it up slowly through the insert.

Ok yes I knew that is how a timber one would be made but wasn't sure if they same could be done with aluminium.

Thanks for the blade advice. Pretty much aligns with what I was thinking.

The truth us I don't know if I need a 12" saw. Seems most get by fine with a 10". The only factor there would be that I am keen on making a variety of sleds and the 12" just give that bit more cutting depth when using a sled. But this might be much of a muchness 99% of the time.

One other questions is the adjustment wheels. I watched a guy on YouTube who said his only gripe with the Carbatec was that it took forever to make wheel adjustments to raise/lower the blade angling the blade. How have you found that in day to day use?

Originally Posted by Biggus

Have you considered dust control? You're going to need at least a 2hp dusty.

Re dust collection, yes I have a 2HP budgeted (likely this one: https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...m-300-scds-100), which I think should be sufficient.

Originally Posted by Biggus

One thing I have learnt since I got into this hobby big time, and that's buy once, cry once.

I tend to agree. Particularly for shop kit that is expensive even for entry level stuff, I don't want to mess around with having to spend to upgrade later. I guess this point is fundamental to what I am honing in on with this thread - if I fork out the cash to "buy once, cry once", am I generally assured that, minor quibbles aside, I am going to be getting a good piece of kit that will perform well and go the distance? Seems so based on what I'm hearing.

I haven't found that it takes ages to adjust the wheels controlling tilt or cutting height. Ten of fifteen seconds from one extent to the other I guess. The more turns it takes to do that equals finer adjustment as well too. It's an odd complaint IMHO, the last thing I would have complained about with this saw.

Horses for courses I guess, one member here who had this saw reckons he didn't like it and I think he got a sliding table saw instead, others including myself rather like it. You know what they say, ask ten woodworkers for an opinion and you'll get eleven answers. I suppose it all comes down to your expectations and what you use it for. I'm an enthusiastic hobbyist and it does the trick for me but maybe if you're more of a pro then other options may be more suitable, but those other options may be twice the price (or more).

I went through all of this eighteen months ago and for the price it came down to the Carbatec or a Harvey, and there isn't a Harvey distributor in WA, so the Carbatec it was. Beside the relatively minor quibbles regarding the dust collection from the guard and the table insert which was easily solved I'm very happy with it, others mileage may vary, as they say.

Originally Posted by Biggus

I haven't found that it takes ages to adjust the wheels controlling tilt or cutting height. Ten of fifteen seconds from one extent to the other I guess. The more turns it takes to do that equals finer adjustment as well too. It's an odd complaint IMHO, the last thing I would have complained about with this saw.

Fair enough, good to get a second opinion on it. I am definitely an enthusiast, so a tool like the Carbatec would honestly be overkill to begin with but good for me to grow into, which is the idea.

Thanks for all your answers, very helpful.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Fair enough, good to get a second opinion on it. I am definitely an enthusiast, so a tool like the Carbatec would honestly be overkill to begin with but good for me to grow into, which is the idea.

Thanks for all your answers, very helpful.

I did go and find that review video, and he is at least complimentary about the saw in general. It's funny what bothers us about stuff, he hates the slow wheel adjustment and reckons the dust collection from the guard is really good and hasn't replaced the original table insert, and I replaced the insert immediately, reckon the dust collection is only ordinary, and had never been the slightest bit annoyed by the wheel adjustments. Just goes to show what I said above about asking woodworkers for an opinion.

Originally Posted by Biggus

I did go and find that review video, and he is at least complimentary about the saw in general. It's funny what bothers us about stuff, he hates the slow wheel adjustment and reckons the dust collection from the guard is really good and hasn't replaced the original table insert, and I replaced the insert immediately, reckon the dust collection is only ordinary, and had never been the slightest bit annoyed by the wheel adjustments. Just goes to show what I said above about asking woodworkers for an opinion.

Haha yes I just rewatched it and noticed the same thing. To each their own. But yes, he is very positive about the saw, much like yourself.