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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I think you might be the only DP user who mixes imperial (expressed as 4 digit decimal metric) and metric bits on the same graduated shelf.


    others are content to use either one or the other standard. 3/8" is 3/8", not 9.525 mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I took these pics today ...



    Far right are Imperial Wood Owl bits for the brace. To their left are Metric 3 x Star-m Super Clean and 3 x Star-M F-Type (also by Wood Owl).
    See?

    even Derek doesn't mix his bit sizes. Though that is an impressive array of specialised drill chucks
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    well, at least you've progressed to including imperial sizes on the second line
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
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    What a great contrast between the latest, ultra-modern computermabob controlled drilling gizmo, and ye good Olde sweat powered devices

  5. #19
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    See?

    even Derek doesn't mix his bit sizes. Though that is an impressive array of specialised drill chucks
    Yebbut having the two different lengths mixed in together would look REALLY poxy, eh Derek?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  6. #20
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    Perth
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    Hey FenceFurniture,
    Saw your post when it first came out and I was impressed with your idea of using a compound table. Not long after I also purchased a Nova drill press.

    I'm now looking at a similar solution to yours using the same compound table. I also do a lot of metal work and it seems like also a good solution for heavier duty stuff - probably remove the wooden table and attached a metal machinist vice to the compound table. A much better solution for positioning the thing to be drilled.

    Probably I would be using a similar wooden table (or a table like in a recent post from Derekcohen) almost all the time for everything apart from heavy duty metal work.


    So now after using your system for a while, would you change anything? Do you think the compound table is big enough to provide sufficient stability for working on your wooden fence/clamping table? Do you think the whole system is too heavy for the table on the Nova?

    Anyone else with comments to help me before I pull the trigger on a solution like this???

    Cheers
    Simon Gilbert

  7. #21
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    Hi Simon, tbh I have spent bugger all time in the shed for at least 6 months, so I haven't used the DP a whole bunch. However, having built 2-3 tables before (different machines) I think this one is pretty good for my purposes. Yes, I was a bit concerned about the weight, and I'm yet to check if it's still drilling vertically.

    A compound table is going to be a real joy for you to use - they are the duck's nutz.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  8. #22
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    So now all you need is a full set of long shank bits OR an extension seiries for each type to allow a trye 150mm depth. That means depending on what thickness of material you are acctually drilling you need a whopping hieght of 400mm min between table top and end ofh drill bit.? That is if depth to be drilled is 150mm? That is impressive.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  9. #23
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    Perth
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    Recent use ..



    The laser is courtesy of a Wixey ...





    The one issue I have (outside of that a laser and a light do not come built-in ... but I have attended to these) is that there is no simple way to return the drill bit to the same spot if the table is raised or lowered ... possibly a reason for such long quill travel. The round pillar should have been built square.

    Does anyone have a method for re-centering the drill bit?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  10. #24
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    Hey Derek,
    How do you find the laser?? Has mainly good reviews on line but a few poor ones. You definitely have the credibility/experience to indicate if it's good or not (that I would believe). You seemed unsure when you originally posted about it.

    Cheers
    Simon

  11. #25
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    Hi Simon

    Thanks for the vote of confidence. My wife has a different opinion

    The laser has a limitation in that the lines are not really fine - don't expect that it will be super, extreme precise in locating a point. But it is close enough for most drilling and, in the situation I was using it above (drilling leg mortices with an auger), where the positioning is needed to be pretty spot-on, it was so helpful in getting close. The final step here for me was to lower the drill bit onto the drill spot made with an awl. It was pretty accurate here.

    To answer your PM, I purchased the Wixey from Amazon: Wixey Model WL133 Drill Press Laser: Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

    Going to that link shows they are now out of stock.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #26
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    I just got one from PWS.

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    The round pillar should have been built square.
    Yebbut then you wouldn't be able to rotate the table around the column. My table is permanently about 10-15° off centre to accommodate the space that the DP has to sit in.

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Does anyone have a method for re-centering the drill bit?
    Derek, this is where a cross table is absolutely invaluable. Just a few tweaks of the handles and you're away again. It also obviates the need for a cross laser (which I think you lamented was a pretty coarse intersection of lines?). Even lining up a very large Forstner is very easy indeed, like so:
    1. Lower the brad point until it is about 5mm from the job
    2. One lines up the brad point with the mark in one dimension (by tweaking the relative handle until the job moves to the spot),
    3. and then switches to the perpendicular position and tweaks that handle,

    For lighting - I would much prefer to provide my own, which in my case is an excellent LED torch on a 50cm flexible gooseneck from Lee Valley. With that I can get light raking right across the mark I make with a Brad Awl (the usual method for me) at an attitude of about 5° off the horizontal. I can also move the light (twist the gooseneck) to any position I need it in. A fixed light is only good for certain positions of the job. (also depends on the fence, job shape etc)
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

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