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  1. #31
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    Jan 2014
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    Adelaide
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    The forward/reverse switch is ready to be installed, but the wiring colours in the diagram I have are not too close to what I have here. I'm not sure what someone was thinking when they made this mess, but whatever it was, they were not thinking of safety...
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  3. #32
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    59

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    Well, the wiring was worse than I thought, several very loose connections, it is amazing that it did run. Most wires were not the correct colour, so all that has been redone. The switch is not the original brand, but testing it, all appears to be as standard. I have not run it yet, I would be interested in confirmation on the switching if there is anyone here that may know. As it is wired now L1 and T1 are connected in forward and reverse position. L2 and T2 are connected in forward or reverse only, and L3 and T3 are connected in forward or reverse only.
    Rob.
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  4. #33
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    59

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    Well the wiring has been a test, the diagram was really not much help. Fortunately "China" came to my rescue and very kindly leant me his control panel to copy from. It now runs forward and reverse, no problem.
    The threading tool I have been waiting for has turned up, BUT it seems whoever packed it, included the wrong insert, this one will not cut a 60deg. thread. I will have the correct one possibly late next week now. Then I can cut the faceplate thread, and I will be done all except for a little more painting.
    Rob.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

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    I am still waiting for the threading tool, the new one that was sent was returned to the seller by Aust. Post damaged...you can't win sometimes. Over the weekend I managed to find another Durden, this one needs plenty of TLC, but had some parts mine did not, and it was very cheap. This is the rise/fall gearing, possibly a very early machine, all the gears are steel, although one part is very worn. My thoughts are that the dovetail slide froze up due to ne lubrication, and it was forced into action, but not for long.
    Rob.
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  6. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    copacabana
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    2

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    Great resurrection. I have an old pacemaker. Does anyone want to make an offer? It has disc sander, mortiser, jointer and saw all functioning. Has been sitting unused for 12 years in my garage. cheers John

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

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    Well Guys I have an update regarding the rise/fall gear in the above photo. It appears that this machine was in the first 100 or so built, after this they went to the diecast type, then later in production they changed it again to a more sturdy diecast design, as the early diecast type continually failed. The first type was cast iron and was expensive to machine, and was dropped for that reason.
    Rob.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

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    An update for those interested in dating their machine...to a degree. They were made in batches of 25, up until 1981, when they changed to 50. My new machine is stamped UP X 3 on the main body of the planer where the borer/sander attachment mounts, on the flat machined section....at the bottom on the left. It is fairly small stamping. So this one was in the 3rd batch of 25 built...interesting. This from Jim Durden "The UP SeriesPacemaker was released in March 1975 and production finished around the end of1997. Several thousand were produced at Glynde and Regency Park. Sth Aust"

    Rob.
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  9. #38
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Well, I finally made time to give the L/H internal thread a go today. I did 3 trial pieces, just to be sure it was not going to ruin the part I needed, and for my own peace of mind, it was worth the time I spent. It is a firm, but not tight fit to the machine spindle, and that is exactly what I wanted. From that I transferred the parts I made some time back from the timber table to the aluminium one and all seems fine. I just need to fit some sandpaper to the disk now and test things. Next weekend possibly, unless I get time this week.
    Rob.
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  10. #39
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    59

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    Something I had not considered was that each time the sanding disk is mounted it gets a little looser...easier to fit, but that changes the final mounting point, in relation to the table to a small degree. I made up a 15mm thick steel spacer, fitted it tonight, and that has solved the problem. I then mounted one of the very old self adhesive sanding discs, and gave things a try....it sands extremely well, I am very satisfied with everything now. I need to adjust the planer blades and we will be done.
    Rob.
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  11. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Perth
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    21

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    Goodness, Rob, beautiful work!

    I'm having a look at one of these tonight. UP-10 600. The guy wants $500 for it, but the switch is burned out. What's your feel for market price, if you don't mind?

    Regards,
    John.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,470

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    I don't know what Rob paid although at $500 it would need to be "plug & go" check the rise an fall mechanism it is most likely worn (even worn out) most are it will be a rare one if it is not

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

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    I paid $450, probably a bit much, but it was 10 minutes from me, and it was the 12" 2HP version, and I hadn't seen one for months. IF.... it's only the forward/reverse switch that is burnt out, they are cheap, I think about $38 delivered, but it will be hard to tell if that is the only issue. If it is the stop/start contactor that will cost more. As china mentioned check the rise/fall wheel, and make sure it works well.
    Rob.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

    Default Sanding disc nut


  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

    Default planer adjustment

    20191215_133124.jpgNothing much has happened on the project for some time, although I have put it to some use, but only the saw and sanding areas. I was fortunate enough to find someone selling the original sanding table and mounting bracket, and UP12 saw guard at a very reasonable price, so they are now added. I have not used the planer because the tables were slightly loose, looking in the manual, it was not particularly clear what to do, so it was left until today. The manual says to remove the motor etc, and put your hand up the chute and with an open ended spanner, slightly tighten the nylon nuts. Try as I did, I had no idea how to do this, I finally removed the table and after some time figured out how to get a spanner in there to adjust things, how it could be done any other way, I have no idea. Next came the table aligning procedure, not easy either, what it doesn't explain well is the 3 bolts that adjust each table, all work against each other like jacking screws, it is still not fully adjusted yet, but I am now much closer to having it adjusted correctly.
    Rob.

  16. #45
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    59

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    90045376_10156993568521500_2383077327333490688_o.jpgI had a bit of luck this week with the original Durden cross slide on gumtree, and although I had the aftermarket one, I just had to have a genuine one. There was a bonus, the original manual, another set of original planer blades and a pair of NOS cutters for the moulding head came with it. Now I just need the moulding head, and the stop for the cross slide. The stop is a small job, I will probably just fabricate one.
    Rob.

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