Thread: Repairing cracked iron tailstock

I would seriously consider a JBWeld (or similar) metal filled epoxy glue repair.

This stuff is phenomenal and I use it on chainsaws and it has never failed me.
The gap would need to be scrupulously cleaned by repeated flushing will meths and then dried with a hot air gun.
You would also need a syringe to see if you can force the JBWeld into the crack.
Light clapming across the crack to hold it in place wile it dries.

You could gain extra strength by flooding inside the back of the crack with a thick layer of JBWeld.
The paint would need to be totally stripped off the section to be glued and it would need to be well cleaned..

Mr Heffa....I feel your pain (what else can go wrong.....) you could try asking some one on the Metalwork Forum living nearby if they could weld/braze it for you. They may have similar money concerns and may be happy to do it free (no harm in asking)

I agree with Bob. JBWeld is good stuff and works well with castings, particularly in low stress applications. I used it to glue a broken foot on an big,old three phase electric motor driving a rip saw. It was meant to be a temporary fix. Still going strong 5years later.

Thanks muchly for the ideas guys

I'm gonna have a go with the JBWeld epoxy

Well, coming back to post an update on developments.
Using syringes with 16G needles to get as far into the crack as possible, I first cleaned it with Isopropyl and air, then filled with JB Weld. I clamped it from all angles and left it for 24 hrs. The result was pretty much seamless, a perfect clean repair. I re-assembled, mounted it back on the rails, and carefully but firmly tightened it down. At less than half way tight there was a tiny 'ping' and the crack re-opened, but this time deeper.

I asked a mate who is a structural eng and fabricator. His opinion: even an experienced iron welder probably couldnt patch it as the casting needs to be much thicker to weld. Thermal spray welding might have a chance, but too expensive for such a cheap part. He reckoned it's just designed cheap and to break.

His solution? For short term, drill out the ends of the cracks so it wont get longer, and reinforce with the bolts. Longer tern, either a new lathe or a home built tailstock: heavy, overbuilt from layers of welded solid 20mm plate stock

So I did the short term fix, and its holding up really well for now

A seamless joint is not good with JBWeld. The glue is forced out by the clamps if they are tight and the joint is starved of adhesive.

Originally Posted by heffa

I clamped it from all angles and left it for 24 hrs.

All you achieved by clamping it was to reintroduce the internal stress that caused it to crack in the first place. I wouldn't have clamped it.