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  1. 11th October 2008, 01:29 PM #1
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    Fuzzie
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    Question Replacing V drive belts on jointer - can I use cogged belts?

    In another thread Papa suggested replacing the drive belts on my jointer/thicknesser as a possible fix.

    I went looking for belts this morning and am beginning to think finding replacement belts is not as simple as I thought it would be.

    First stop was Supercheap who have 20% off belts as a Bathurst weekend special. Ummh... car fan belts don't look the way I remember (I'm not really into machinery including cars) they are now all toothed( cogged?) but they are still marked as A belts (I'm looking for A900 and A1000). Guy at the service desk looked at me blankly when I said I was looking for a belt to replace on my woodworking machine.

    I then tried the CBC bearing shop around the corner as they supply ''industrial" belts. They had an untoothed A1000 belt but they were 3 times the price of the Bosch belts at supercheap. Also the only A900 belt they had was also toothed.

    Reading the blurb on Bosch belts seems to imply the cogged belt would be ok to use a a replacement for the old style belts. Apparently the A designates automative and is not a section profile. The bosch brochure says their raw edge cogged belt replaces all belt types - wrapped belts, raw-edge plain belts as well as cogged belts.

    So what's the story. Can I use standard cogged automotive drive belt on woodworking machinery? I would think that it wouldn't be as suitable because the cogs would fill up with chips and dust and shorten the belt life.

    Also the cost of 3 new belts at CBC is going to cost about most of the price of a new electric motor at Tradetools, so I'm also a bit scared of replacing the belts and still having a motor issue.

    Who else carries woodworking drive belts? I looked on the Hare and Forbes website but couldn't see any.
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  3. 11th October 2008, 01:49 PM #2
    Papa
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    The "A" is the angle on the belt, different than auto belts.
    Often called fractional HP belts. The notched belts are fine,
    they run cooler. Only the top third of the belt does the pulling.

    The fractional HP belts stand up to sudden starts better than
    auto belts but are noisy in comparison. Also cost a bit more
    most of the time.
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  4. 11th October 2008, 02:07 PM #3
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    Fuzzie, you could try Link belts (Powertwist), which you should be able to get locally. I know Lee Valley has them, but I think I got mine from Blackwoods.

    FWIW, I replaced the normal V belts on my Drill Press and Tablesaw. Much quieter and I would say more power too.
    Pat
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  5. 11th October 2008, 02:23 PM #4
    Papa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    Fuzzie, you could try Link belts (Powertwist), which you should be able to get locally. I know Lee Valley has them, but I think I got mine from Blackwoods.

    FWIW, I replaced the normal V belts on my Drill Press and Tablesaw. Much quieter and I would say more power too.
    Agreed!
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  6. 12th October 2008, 12:28 AM #5
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    I have just ordered Power Twist belts by the foot on eBay (USA) for my jointer, tablesaw and drill press (13 feet in all). Do a search there. Probably still a lot cheaper that way. Mine cost me $84 USD, which includes airmail.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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  7. 12th October 2008, 10:08 AM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzzie
    The bosch brochure says their raw edge cogged belt replaces all belt types - wrapped belts, raw-edge plain belts as well as cogged belts
    If you weren't aware, never use a raw edge belt on aluminium pulleys, it will damage the sheave in no time. They are for steel / cast iron only.
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