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  1. #1
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    Default Sherwood drill press not square front to back - whats up with Timbecon’s response?

    I bought the 550w Sherwood drill press from Timbecon not so long ago (https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...le-drill-press)

    My first drill press so I’m learning how to use it well etc. When I set it up I checked for square between the table and the drill bit from side to side and adjusted the table tilt appropriately. However, I did NOT check for square front to back (ie when viewing from the side).

    I only recently drilled something deep enough to notice some serious run out. So I checked for square again and sure enough it is way out front to back (see photos). I checked the manual, looked all over the machine, but couldn’t see a way to adjust this. So I contacted Timbecon and they confirmed there is no way to adjust it.

    But they then also suggested a make a shim out of aluminium foil and stick it inside the collar when the main drill body attaches to the post in order to try and offset and fix it. Well, there is no need to try this as there so little play in that collar that there is no way I can use a shim to make it square.

    But I also wonder about the suggestion in the first place. These things are advertised as having only 0.03mm runout. Mine has significantly more than that (like, maybe 3-5mm over a depth of 40mm).

    I don’t even know what to make of that response. Surely it’s not a reasonable solution to expect me to use a home-made shim to get a brand new drill press into square?


    (First photo is measuring from the “back” of the drill bit. Second is from the “front”. I also spun the arbor and bit slowly a full 360 degrees and tried multiple bits. They were all dead straight the gap never changed. So I’m confident its the drill press itself which is out of square).

    32A81DCE-7017-42B6-B793-70545F34BC61.jpg
    213173E3-6023-4BE7-9EA3-444CB1489EBC.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Use the shim between the table mount casting and the height adjustment casting on the post, not the drill mount to the post. You should be able to get it acceptably good.

  4. #3
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    For a good range of shims I use an old set of feeler gauges - just cut off the pieces I need.

    Regards,

    Brian

  5. #4
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    Not surprised TBH.
    If i wasn't going to return it (I would), i'd do as aldav suggests.

  6. #5
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    Run-out is basically slop in the quill, what you have is mis-alignment. Return it to the supplier as it isn't fit for purpose. The whole (pardon the pun) idea of a drill press is to drill holes square to the table, within acceptable tolerances.

    Alan...

  7. #6
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    Most of the current offerings of hobbyist drill presses have issues, some quite major imho.

    The tables flex under moderate load; they are difficult to maintain alignment i.e. table orthoganal to the quill; excessive slop in the quill .....

    Powderpost and I looked at several brands available here in Townsville a few years ago. Very few even passed a cursory glance to warrant inclusion for further examination / comparison. I haven't had the chance to examine the Nova offerings but I hope to next trip south to go to the Maleny Wood expo.
    Mobyturns

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  8. #7
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    If you get table flex under high load then placing a jack between the underside of the table and the base can help.

    Even my floor standing HD DP flexs a bit "back to front" when drilling in steel with large bits.
    This problem is exacerbated because I keep a 13kg, 125mm cross slide vice permanently on the table.
    A few years ago I installed an electrically operated actuator that adjusts the table height by pushing up from the base to the middle of the table.
    While it's a bit slower to operate than the previous "easy rider" , or the original "crank handle" height adjustment mechanisms, it's much easier to operate and rock sold.

    WIP here Mechanised DP table height control.
    Original version had a jack incorporated into the operation but that has since been removed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
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    As aldav says, shim at the bottom of the swivel connection between the table and height winder as shown below. Just loosen the bolt that you did to adjust the sideways tilt and lift the front of the table up which will give a gap between the 2 faces where you can put your shim in. Keep the shim as low on the face as possible for best support when you tighten up your bolt again.
    I had to do mine a long time ago, but admittedly mine is about 40 years old so nothing has improved in the handyman range.
    This vid shows how it's done except you would use a shim rather than a grubscrew as he does.

    Shim_1.jpg
    Dallas

  10. #9
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    Hi Lemerv

    Sorry to hear about your Timbecon Drill Press, very disappointing to purchase a nice new tool only to find that it isn't up to the specifications advertised.

    If the fault is the miss alignment of the adjustable table then the above fixes may easily solve your problem and it probably not worth the hassle of following up the supplier.

    However if the alignment is in the head of the drilling machine between the shaft, then the alignment problem you have is unviable to rectify, basically impossible to fix and I would recommend that you approach the supplier for a replacement or a full refund.

    Good luck dealing with Timbecon.

  11. #10
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    Have had some back and forth with Timbecon measuring a few things, and it looks like it is probably the table mount casting. They are sending me a new part so will see if that fixes it.

    Will report back.

  12. #11
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    Has there been a solution to this?

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Has there been a solution to this?
    Yes thanks for reminding me. New table mount sent and this one is square. Although the clamp for the table has been bored off centre (see image) but I don’t this is an issue.

    3AEC3314-A4C2-4500-A12D-29E4E3319A8F.jpeg

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