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Thread: Some of my stuff:
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15th April 2013, 06:31 PM #16Senior Member
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Hello Ron.Yep,the page is from HSB & Co.Here`s some Titan pics:
You`ll also note the spring metal clip protruding forward of the chuck gear housing -this when pressed inward locates into a screw head which locks the gears to enable a drill to be inserted & hand tightened or unlocked & removed. Pricewise at near $60 must have been a top shelf unit in its time.And still going strong. gordon
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15th April 2013, 07:03 PM #17New Member
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Thanks! NICE looking drill! Is it from the 12-01-2007 auction that Worthpoint mentions? I don't subscribe, so don't know whether they show more than one photo. Looks like the nameplate is still reasonably legible, too - always a plus, in my estimation. The stick-on foil labels on tools were crap from the get-go, but even the etched-metal-with-enamel-fill ones have often worn away badly. Guess all of the specifications are shown in the catalog page.
The Millers Falls drills were up into the same price territory. That would have been a couple of weeks' pay back then for the average person. What a difference automation of things like the coil-winding process made!
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15th April 2013, 10:25 PM #18Senior Member
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Hello Ron. Got a few pics that some one sent me after finding out i`d bought the Titan/Kbc combo so couldn`t say where they came from. Only difference being the one in above pics would be 110V against my 240v & mine still has the leather plugs in situ where the brushes fit.(the large screw heads). gordon
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16th April 2013, 01:39 AM #19New Member
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Leather plugs! That's a new one on me - I've seen some with some sort of composition material, but I'm pretty sure that it was molded to shape, and then cut and turned on a lathe or screw machine to thread it, and given a shallow slot with a curved bottom (used to "encourage" use of a coin, rather than a screwdriver, so that tightening force would be limited). But I haven't seen leather used. Perfectly valid choice, from engineering aspect.
I strongly supect that the pics came from the original auction described at Antique Vintage Old ARGYLE TITAN Hand Electric Drill. The single pic they show is the same as one of those you provided, but theirs is low-resolution, so yours came from an earlier generation.
Are you bringing your Titan back to full glory?
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16th April 2013, 05:35 PM #20Senior Member
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Hello Ron. When i had the power lead replaced the electrician checked the brushes which are fine (1/2" depth) so left them as is.There is a 4" x 1/2" dia coil spring which allows for the power lead to flex at handle.The tab reads:
Argyle Titan Elec.Drill
patent pending
Capacity 3/8".No 0661
Argyle Ry.Supply Co Chicago
Universal Type Motor.
220 Volts A.C. 60 cycle or D.C.
I have hand sanded to bare finish & will probably run a coat or two of what we call hammer tone (in grey) over it.
Otherwise nothing else needs sorting as it works perfectly & is surprisingly quiet in operation. gordon
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16th April 2013, 06:41 PM #21New Member
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I gather that yours didn't have the red like the one in photos under the grime? How early was hammertone paint (I've also seen it called hammerite: brand name) invented? I didn't think it came along until maybe the late 1950s / early 60s. Not that restoration to full original appearance wouldn't always be possible at a later time, if you or some later owner wanted to change it . . .
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17th April 2013, 05:10 PM #22Senior Member
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G`day Ron. There were remnants of red paint but as its a user & not a museum piece, basic grey will do the job.And no, i have no intention of palming it off.It`s a keeper.As for hammertone paint,i was using it back in the mid 60s on various applications of coach/bus building: in-cab engine covers,rears of seat squabs,door step kick panels etc.Btw,if you take a look in the Antique & Collectable section you`ll see another recent aquisition that might interest you - Herbert Home Workshop. cheers gordon
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17th April 2013, 07:53 PM #23New Member
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Pretty much as I figured: prepping it for use, not looks. Was (IS!) a nice looking drill, I'd say! 60's make sense for hammertone paint; I THINK I found the patent info: 1962. Might have hit the market while the application was being processed, say, a couple of years earlier.
Looked at the Herbert HW. I have NEVER seen any info on that one before! I've kept an informal file on multipurpose / reconfigurable machines - the ShopSmith was the big one over here - and will add this one to the list. You might be interested in seeing a machine I have, a Cummins Do-It Shop. This was sort of a poor man's multipurpose tool. See The Free Lance-Star - Google News Archive Search or Antique Cummins Do-it Shop Tool. Oddly enough, this second one is only about 45 miles from here (say, 75 km) - but that's considerably more than I paid for mine. I also have the Cummins Do-It Jig-Saw - brand new, never used! Given to me by a friend about a year ago as a companion for the Shop... Pics of both machines here: MULTI-POWER TOOL. These are NOT mine, but ones for sale about 3-4 hours drive from here.
Wish a KBC or Lightburn jigsaw like yours would come on the market here! I've never seen a directly driven jigsaw attachment for a drill (the Do-It used pulleys and a Vee belt). Passed a link to this thread to an Aussie mate of mine (in Mackay), and he reckoned that it was right up my alley. Ron
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17th April 2013, 08:51 PM #24Senior Member
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Very nice indeed Ron.Reminded me of this "Skil" unit:
Any reason why if the pulley is removed on your Cummins, a stepped shaft can`t be used? IE,length of shaft half way hollowed to saw spindle with grub screw locking.Continuing half of shaft stepped down to suit drill chuck.Just a thought. gordon
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18th April 2013, 02:07 AM #25New Member
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No question - it is possible to do exactly that. The old Calibrated Eyeball says that the shaft is 7/16" dia. Could turn out a suitable adapter in an hour if needed (9" South Bend lathe downstairs). But usual method is a two-piece, with larger part hollow through, but stepped diameters: one fits output & gets setscrew (your grub screw), other gets stub shaft, often pinned. Three advantages: no need of a lathe, thinner input shaft can be higher-quality material, and less waste material generated. Concentricity fairly guaranteed if you drill halfway w/ large size, swap to small with work still fixtured, and then finish through using small. So probably quicker, too. [Wild thought: if your drill were a bit off-center, holes would still align, and eccentric O.D. gives more wall thickness for tapped hole. Best of all - careful adjustment could get weight 180 degrees out-of-synch with the drive mechanism, to dampen vibration inherent to a jigsaw!]
At least some shop supply outfits offer stepped hollow adapters with tapped holes already made. If close to a store, or willing to wait for delivery, simpler yet!
I knew of the Skil analog to my Cummins, but those are the best pics I've seen of it. Thanks!
Ron
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18th April 2013, 09:52 AM #26
Me too at CCMC I recall installing the new (then) extension to factory and using this to drill and screw the side panels 30ft walls up and getting an electric shock at top of fork lift dropping the drill and it hit one of the blokes below on the shoulder 1/2" left and it would have been his head the fellow was a nugget and ended up with just a bruise. Me flat on the floor of a 4ftx4ft lift with a massive headache.
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18th April 2013, 09:56 AM #27
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18th April 2013, 05:20 PM #28Senior Member
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Hi Ray. Not mine.That Skil is currently being adv. on the 'bay'.I`d buy it but for the distance.Think its down Vic way.Smart looking eh. gordon
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1st September 2013, 02:53 PM #29Senior Member
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Skil Sher
Sher 1.jpgSher 1a.jpg
Well its been a while due to family & other issues but i`m back & c/o member Rob from Maitland is my latest aquisition.Should arrive Tuesday arvo.
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1st September 2013, 11:24 PM #30Senior Member
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