Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 44
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Aldinga Beach, South Australia
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Cgcc - a Makita 1.4m track may be $99, but that doesn't include the plunge saw that you use with the track! And you can only use the Makita plunge saw models XPS01, XPS02, and SP6000J. And as I already have a Makita circular saw (7 1/4inch) I will probably just use a guide of some sort rather than buy a second saw.

    I am intrigued by the number of people who use bandsaws more than table saws. What kind of work do you tend to do? How big are your bandsaws? And are there quality table top band saws in Australia?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainCaveman View Post
    Cgcc

    I am intrigued by the number of people who use bandsaws more than table saws. What kind of work do you tend to do? How big are your bandsaws? And are there quality table top band saws in Australia?
    I'm not sure if i use my bandsaw more than the table saw, but if i could only keep one it would be the bandsaw. I could cross cut with a mitre saw or track saw for wider stock and break down sheet goods with a track saw as well. I rip thicker stock on the bandsaw, resaw boards on the bandsaw, often cut tenons on the bandsaw, curves on the bandsaw etc.

    Unfortunately i couldn't recommend a benchtop bandsaw. Or even a cheaper 14" floor standing saw. I think it's a great tool if you buy quality and the larger the better - a larger saw doesn't take up much more space than a smaller one really. For new, i'd budget at least $1500- to get something with decent weight and stiffness, resaw height, good guides etc. You may be able to get away for less but I have no guidance there, but my brief experience with a cheap (approx $600) 14" floorstanding model i initially bought was not positive.

    Cheers, Dom

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Aldinga Beach, South Australia
    Posts
    37

    Default

    DomAU, what about brands of band saws then? Any you can recommend?

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainCaveman View Post
    DomAU, what about brands of band saws then? Any you can recommend?
    It's hard for me to recommend any because my experience is limited to my current saw, a Laguna Lt18 3000, now superceded by the 18BX and that old 14" Hare and Forbes saw that was very poor. The Laguna has been great and I am very happy with it - but there could be better saws for the money out there I guess. I think that the Laguna saws get positive reviews and all of their saws are likely to be good solid saws. The Jet 14 and 18 inch saws also get reasonable reviews but the price is getting up there on all of these saws.

    Maybe someone else here has a broader range of experience?

    Cheers, Dom

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainCaveman View Post
    I'm just getting started in woodworking and I'm looking at one of my first large purchases. While I would like a table saw my workspace (such as it is) is extremely limited in size/area so a table saw might not be an option. If this is the case would a router in a bench top router table be able to take the place of a table saw? Or will this limit the types of projects I can do?

    And is it feasible to mount a circular saw in a sturdy wooden box to make a bench top table saw?
    Hi CC

    I strongly recommend that you purchase a table saw. The essential element for box making is sawing square, ripping or edging with mitres. The table saw is the best machine for this.

    Later you can add a bandsaw if you plan to re-saw boards or make wide veneer. You can also make these saw cuts with a table saw - just that the boards will be narrower, and the table saw blade is thicker and will waste a little wood.

    I strongly advise against a router table. Nothing against router tables, but an amateur really needs to make their own, especially if it is the first one. They are dead easy to make, and you will safe a lot of money (to spend on other tools). I'd go so far as to say make your own router table fence as well - yell out if you want a design. There are so many around, and cheap to make. Get a decent 2 hp router, which you can then use in the table and freehand. I'd build the router table into the end of the table saw (and make the table saw fence do double duty).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    33
    Posts
    228

    Default

    I personally have a bandsaw instead of a table saw, same as the reasons above and to optimise a table saw, you need quite a bit of space around it. Aluminium straight edges paired with a couple of clamps(I got mine from Total Tools) will work with your circ saw, router and whatever other tools you can think of from any brand. They're also much cheaper than tracks. Yes, tracks are good, but not essential with a bit of ingenuity.
    I cut it twice and it's still to short.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Aldinga Beach, South Australia
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Judging from all the replies, it seems that a table saw might be the better choice for my first purchase, but I really need more tools than just a table saw.

    I am currently thinking of getting the following (hopefully!) in this order: table saw, shop vacuum, drill press, router with table, compound mitre saw, and band saw. Of course this is depended on whether or not I can fit it all in the space I have! Currently I have no space at all as my sister has had to move back in with us due to spine damage causing constant pain and making her unable to work.

    If worse comes to worst I will simply have to make a single workstation (with folding 'wings' on the sides and back) that can be used with as many of the machines as possible. And get it out in the yard whenever I need/want to make something. But then I have to find somewhere to store that...

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    CC

    As suggested table saw with router table in outfeed. That will save space. This is what I did to a past table saw ...





    You do not need a compound mitre saw if you have a good sled on the table saw, or especially if you get a table saw with a sliding crosscut sled.

    Please note that a bandsaw is only going to be helpful for sawing curves or re-sawing boards (which you can dimension in other ways). Get it later. Instead, I would look at a thickesser, which you can use to joint as well with a thicknesser sled. It will also do the dimensioning for you. A 13" "lunchbox" thicknesser will not take up much space, and can be stored easily.

    A drill press is incredibly useful. A 1/2 - 3/4" hp benchtop model is the way to go.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    43
    Posts
    519

    Default

    Hi CaptainCaveman - yes, but if you're talking about a tablesaw you're talking almost 10x that amount anyway. It's just pointing out the cost is not huge relative to other options.

    Bandsaws you'll find are for curved cuts and also very large cuts, but not repeatable, precise or angled cuts. They take up less "real estate" than a table saw but they are for rough shaping not clean cuts.

    If you need to (for example) turn a piece of plywood into four cabinet walls, a tracksaw *can* do the job and fit in a little box with some setup. A table saw will do the job in style and comfort with less margin for error (and do many other things beside), but occupy a large space and be a permanent fixture.

    There are a lot of advantages and disadvantages both in terms of space, money and versatility; I'm afraid there is no "right" answer to your original question!.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cgcc View Post

    There are a lot of advantages and disadvantages both in terms of space, money and versatility; I'm afraid there is no "right" answer to your original question!.
    This is the only truth here. There is no universal right answer. With a lot of constraints, understanding exactly what you intend to do, perhaps even the first few projects, will better guide which features are of most value to your situation.

    Other than getting quality everything, which is not an option, any option will require compromises. I think a bandsaw is great, but you really need at least a hand plane(s) to smooth the surfaces because they won't ever be perfectly smooth, even with a good setup, and will be rough with a bad one. But then you need sharpening kit etc as well.

    If I had a very limited space I would consider a predominantly hand-tools (some planes, saws and chisels etc) setup with perhaps a bandsaw a benchtop thicknesser and a track saw/circ saw, which would allow you to break down and dimension timber, cut joinery, and not take up a heap of space. On the other hand if you intend to work with a lot of plywood, or other sheetgoods, a table saw saves a lot of time and is more accurate as already mentioned.

    Sorry, I think you'll get better advise with targeted questions. Good luck - don't forget choosing tools is a good problem to have .

    Cheers, Dom

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    I've just come across this video by Rob Cosman. The main difference we have is that he recommends a jointer rather than a thicknesser as one of the top 4 tools. I used to do the same, because I can thickness with hand planes (as he can as well), but for those who cannot or are reluctant, the thicknesser is more useful.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I've just come across this video by Rob Cosman. The main difference we have is that he recommends a jointer rather than a thicknesser as one of the top 4 tools. I used to do the same, because I can thickness with hand planes (as he can as well), but for those who cannot or are reluctant, the thicknesser is more useful.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Yeah right. I would have thought it's far easier to plane a flat face or square edge and then thickness square and down to the desired thickness than to thickness with hand planes...

    Cheers, Dom

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    With the right jig you can also joint with a thicknesser and then thickness it as required. The hardest part is getting the other edge square but once again with the right jig it's possible.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    43
    Posts
    519

    Default

    I've looked into all those jigs. From just shimming low spots with wedges up to dedicated boards with adjustable floats.

    For a large board, learning to use a hand plane and attack high spots is ridiculously easy, quiet and - if you tune up hand planes for other work - practically free.

    Think about it - the biggest problems with a board going through a thicknesser are also the easiest to fix by hand - big high spots can be spotted from distance and readily attacked.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    43
    Posts
    519

    Default

    While Rob Cosman is great it's worth pointing out he's got a shop the size of an aircraft carrier.

    I recall recently watching a video of him showing a build of a basic shooting board. He used:

    - a top-quality tablesaw
    - jointer
    - thicknesser
    - sliding compound mitre saw
    - two quality work benches
    - three drill drivers, numerous clamps
    - three tuned-up hand planes (one a large, expensive one)

    I mean I agree with his views but they're from a certain vantage and sometimes he way overshoots your average garage woodworker.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 27
    Last Post: 6th February 2019, 08:31 AM
  2. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 30th April 2009, 02:43 PM
  3. What is a good router table/router table accessories?
    By SilverSniper in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 4th March 2009, 10:05 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •