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  1. #16
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    Default

    Lou,

    Download this and have fun!

    Drill Bit Speed Chart

    Cheers,

    P

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  3. #17
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    Aug 2003
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    Brisbane - South
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    Default

    Yeeeer....... wot Bitingmidge said
    Cheers

    Major Panic

  4. #18
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    Default Happy Camper :-)

    Thx BitingMidge your links just what the Doctor Ordered. Really appreciate that

    Regards Lou

  5. #19
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    Drop Bear Capital of Gippsland (Lang Lang) Vic Australia
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    Default

    Clear the bit to prevent burning, some timbers cling to the bit and start to smoulder. Just pull the bit out and tap or brush off the swarf (?) then start again.
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  6. #20
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    Default Thx to all for the help fellas!!!!!

    Once again I'd like to thank all those who have participated in this thread. The informtion provided has been invaluable.................allowing me to safely and appropriately tackle any new jobs in the future. Looks like my new drill press is in for a real workout

    Regards Lou

  7. #21
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    Nov 2003
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou
    The informtion provided has been invaluable......
    Ooops...must have forgotten where I was for a minute!!


    Cheers,

    P

  8. #22
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    Default Finished product first run on Drill press

    Well here she is...................the outcome of me first run with the drill press Dog Holes! for the new work bench I'm presently working on.


  9. #23
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    Sep 2004
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    Glenhaven, NSW
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    Go to Woodsmith.com and look up their online extras for issue 137. This is a very comprehensive drill speed chart for twist drills, spade bits, forstner bits and holesaws.
    I downloaded it, printed it and had the local stationer laminate it; it's stuck up on the wall behind my press.
    Graeme

  10. #24
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Glenhaven, NSW
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    81
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge
    Lou,

    Download this and have fun!

    Drill Bit Speed Chart

    Cheers,

    P
    Midge,
    Sorry, should have looked at your post first - the Australian Woodsmith chart is better than the yankee one.
    Graeme

  11. #25
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    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    Lou

    There is also a chart inside the pulley cover.

  12. #26
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    Default Drill press accessories?

    mmmmmmmmmm yer I found that thx Matt

    Now I guess its time to get a few bit sets together. I've done some comparison drilling on some 45mm blackbutt strong dense stuff!! found that twist bits (12mm) and spade bits (19mm) seemed to cause a fair bit of breakout once going through the stock!

    The best bit i used by far was a Brad bit (12mm) that seemed to give a smooth well machined hole with no breakout through the other side! What are other people experiences with drilling and breakout? what style drill bits have you found seem to give the best consistant results?

    At this stage I'm thinking of putting my hard earn't dollars into a Brad set made from high speed steel (3-13mm) I'm not sure what to go for in the larger sizes though? Fornester, Sawtooth or Spade Bits?????

    Anyfeedback appreciated Regards Lou

  13. #27
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    Sep 2004
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    Lou,
    I've found anything which cuts the outside of the hole before the centre almost eliminates tear-out, so: bradpoint for smaller sizes, forstner and sawtooth forstner types for the bigger holes (but they get pricey!)
    Spade bits and metal drills are OK for fenceposts and sparky's wiring holes in cottage framing but not where you can see the results.
    If you have to use twist drills in wood, set your speed as high as you can and have them as sharp as you can and back the timber up with some waste underneath.
    Graeme

  14. #28
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    Oct 2003
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    Sydney,Australia
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    Default

    2 items to note here:

    1) use a backing board under the piece you are drilling through - any piece of old junk timber will do - off cuts, old palings etc. No splintering on break thru. This mainly apliers to jobber twist & brad point drills

    2) with spade, auger & forstener/sawtooth bits & all the hole saws - turn the wood over as soon an the centre point comes thru (OK - guess or measure, don't use your finger!) and drill/cut from the back. Result - no splintering.

  15. #29
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    Drop Bear Capital of Gippsland (Lang Lang) Vic Australia
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    Default

    In addition to brslee's comment, I use a 1/16" pilot hole through the timber with a forstner bit and bore about halfway and then restart from the other side using the pilot hole for alignment.
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  16. #30
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    Default Great drill bit links

    Great feedback fellas thx

    In my travels over the net I've found some excellent links to sites that give some great information on drill bit basics and just about all you could want to know and buy in regards to drill bits........here they are:

    Drill bit basics at:
    http://www.woodnet.net/reviews/archi...ll-bit-basics/

    Anything to do with drills and drill products at:
    http://www.georeviews.com/Tools___Ha...Sets/index.php

    The next thing I'd like to explore is adding some kind of table to my drill press. Any ideas? or setups others have come up with? I'd love to know how a drill press set up with quality parts and accessories squares up to things like a spindle sander?

    All feedback appreciated
    Regards Lou

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