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9th July 2013, 11:13 PM #1New Member
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Tough Drill Press..Advice required please
came across this Australian made Tough drill press on gumtree and couldn't resist..it seems to be in good working order but being a newbie setting up first substantial workshop I have no idea what I should be checking/doing to make it a safe and useful tool in my hands
I am interested in restoring this drill press..I can see the quality and would love to see my boys learn to use and appreciate it...
motor is a Pope and dated 1963..is this likely to also be the age of the drill?.. I am a little concerned about the wiring/switch and would be keen to hear of your recommendations for a new (push button?) switch..
I understand that the drill bits are tapered...were these only used for heavy duty metal drilling? I am, sadly, totally in the dark with this type of drill but I am keen to learn and now have the opportunity to get a workshop setup for the boys and I to work in..
Regards,
TOM
Tough1.jpgTough2.jpgTough3.jpgTough4.jpgTough5.jpg
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19th July 2013, 02:23 PM #2Senior Member
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Hi Tom,
That's a good find! Looks like you scored a nice work-holding arm with it as well.
My Tough DP is a bit more recent, and that was new in the 70's so your motor date may be correct.
As you appear to be inexperienced with elec wiring and switches I suggest you get an electrician to look at the switch and wiring.
"I understand that the drill bits are tapered...were these only used for heavy duty metal drilling?" Your drill has a Morse taper spindle (No 2 Morse Taper, or 2MT). This is a common type of tool driving system used in engineering equipment, capable of transmitting a lot of power for its size while ensuring that the tool is accurately aligned. The driving force is (or should be) transmitted by the tapered part and not by the flat "tang" at the thin end of the tool shank. The tang is there so the tool can be ejected from the socket with a wedge shaped piece of flat bar pushed in through the window in the side of the spindle - with a bit of luck you will find the ejecting wedge in the drill bit box. It is important to keep the MT shanks clean and free of rust, burrs and nicks (which should be carefully removed with a fine file or small abrasive stone), otherwise you may damage the inside of the taper - not easy to fix and upsets tool alignment/ transmitted power.
Fortunately you have some 2MT drill bits to go with it (as you observed these are on the large side), and you also have a keyed drill chuck with a tapered shank that will allow you to use smaller straight shank drill bits which are readily available (and much more affordable than drill bits with MT shanks).
I note your DP has no belt guard. That's typical of its vintage, and OK if you (and "the boys") are careful, but no longer acceptable in work situations. Just be aware that a V belt drive can take off a finger in a flash.
Best of luck with it,
Cheers,
Bill
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21st July 2013, 12:02 PM #3New Member
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Bill,
Many thanks for your advice and recommendations.
Cheers,
TOM
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23rd July 2013, 09:46 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Tom,
I believe you have scored a great drill press there. Changing the switch is a good idea but get an electrician to wire it. I did the same with my Tough chisel morticer which has basically the same head post and base as your drill press different table set up for the cross slide. You can also check the quill for any movement and the bearings for any play. Basically that's it with the mt2 drills for heavy work and a mt2 jacobs chuck for general drilling you should have a machine that will give you great service for years to come.
Regards Rod.
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