Thread: Water pressure pump

The bladder inside the pressure tank sounds like it has developed a hole and the space is full of water. In the short term, you could remove the valve in the top and remove excess water that way but the leak is still going to be there. One option I have used is to remove the whole tank, take out the bladder and get the 'puncture' fixed at a tyre place but its always a bastard to get it all to seal up properly when you put it back together. You could also look on ebay for pressure tanks with new bladders already in them, I ve done that too with excellent results. A third option is to replace the pressure tank and switch with an electronic setup, costs vary a lot but even if you get a cheap one it will still be the most expensive option but possibly the best over time.

Hi and thank you for your reply.
The pressure tank has no bladder. It is a sealed unit very much like a small gas bottle with no handles and some 10 litres in volume. I remember asking about the membrane to the owner and he told me that this model has nothing of the sort. That is why the air pressure has to be replaced from time to time since air dissolves in water under pressure and is pumped away.
I understand that there are models with electric switch yet I was told that the pressure tank gives a more smooth operation particularly if it services toilet tanks with a float that requires very little flow at the end of the cycle. Only hearsay though.

I thought in drilling a hole in the tank and screw a tap in it but that would also screw the lining that protects it from corroding if it has such thing at all. I suppose I could just undo the water intake hose clamp at the pump and let the whole thing empy itslef through the pump. A bit messy since the water from all the pipes in the house will come out of there.

Marc,
This link may help - http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/wat...pressure-tank/

Ian

Give Dynamic Pumps a call Windsor Rd ask for Garry

Well I did look into that forum but did not find my anser. Also rang dimamic pumps and asked the question if tank needs to be drained and how and they told me that they do not fix pumps over the phone...nice.

So I took to the tank today and dismanteled the connection between the pump and the tank took it outside and stuck a pin in the pressurevalve and drained it oh so slowly.
Back on and pumped it up to 22 psi as usual.
Pump on, drain all the air from the pipes and after the usual hissing and coffing, all works. The surprise came when I measured the pressure of the air in the tank. 45psi
I thought something is wrong, so lowered back to the 22 psi I was told.
Start the pump again and it goes up to 45 and stops. The tank is marked to work up to 110 psi, so no danger. Just curious as to how it was working on 22 before when the tank was full of water and now that is empty works at 45.

Anyway, works ok now.

not sure about the inner workings, but I can verify that the electronic pressure switch is not great if you have a drip, or a cistern that fills slowly as it fills. Same if the washing machine solenoid or tap is a bit funny. I am looking to put a pressure tank in my system, so if you find a good quality one or can make a recomendation once you have solved the problem, let me know.