Thread: Zero clearance insert - Thin steel insert plate

HDPE or Aluminium

I think the thin HDPE chopping boards I have seen are a bit thicker than needed, but it might be an option.

I could probably shape thin aluminium plate. Where do you buy it or do you cut up a cheap aluminium fry pan?

Actually made one of these a couple of days ago. 2 x 6mm pieces of ply laminated together, cut to size on the bandsaw and then finished on the sander. Sits about .5mm shallow of the table top and I’m going to shim it with pieces of tape.

Headed back out to the shop now so I’ll try and get some photos up for you.

The rebate for my insert is only 3mm deep. The original steel one is a bit under 3mm thick. I couldn't see any cheap HDPE boards just now at the local shops and at 400mm long I think it's probably going to have to be aluminium plate.

just make the thing out of a scrap of 9 or 12 mm ply.
the only bit that needs to be the "correct" thickness is the rebate that sits on the support tabs cast into table top

I like to try the no cost approach first.

I scrounged a short piece of some engineered hardwood flooring. This is basically 17mm thick ply where the top exposed face is an extra thick 4mm. I think what I have might be American Oak. This piece seemed to be much higher quality ply than I've seen for awhile and much better than some of the other cheap floating floor stuff.

I reduced the overall thickness to around 11mm so I could shape it using a bearing router bit, similar to as described for making a thick insert. I then excavated the shaped piece to sit on the bearing surfaces. I took it down to a 3mm thick lip, but the machined rebate and tabs underneath seem to be somewhat uneven and it still sits just proud in a couple of places. I think it has also warped a bit. I don't want to take anymore meat off the thickness so I'll leave it as is for the moment. The original steel insert is closer to 2.5mm thick probably explaining why the rebate machined into the table is a bit rough.

insert3.jpg insert4.jpg

The big problem now seems to be above table dust control. Sawdust everywhere!

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

The big problem now seems to be above table dust control. Sawdust everywhere!

Some of this can be relieved by drill a hole in the throat plate like this.
I should add this is not my idea - I got it from this forum - can't remember who from.
View2.jpg

If you want really effective fine dust and chip collection then bring 150mm fixed ducting as close as possible to the guard and then use 4" flexy.

The guard should be completely open at the back and the port should be at the front.
Mine is somewhat over-engineered but it does work.
TSguard1.jpg

Holy dust chute Batman!

When it comes to dust collection Bob really doesn’t mess around! Meanwhile I can’t even decide where to put my machines so I can get started on dust collection [emoji23]

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Holy dust chute Batman!

As one visitor to my shed said - "DANGER Will Robinson DANGER"

Here is the TS OH guard DC connections with the pressure interlock and blast gates in place.
The other flexy is used for clean up when the OH guard gets in the way so it is swung aside.
Its also used to suck from the router table top.
TSOHG1.jpg

To control the dust once I run the blade through I take it back off and drill 6mm holes in all the non structural areas of the plate and countersink them to make them smooth.

Dust the gets sucked through beneath the saw. Provided there is dust collection of course.

cheers

dazzler

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

The big problem now seems to be above table dust control. Sawdust everywhere!

from my observations, this dust is entrained with the blade and is "released" when the teeth start cutting.
I can't see how holes in the insert can help all that much because when the saw is cutting the holes are covered by what is being cut.

What am I missing?