Thread: 15amp plugs

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

the best way to overcome it is to have a 10 amp plug end fitted by a sparky.

Trouble is you will run into warranty issues (as well as it being illegal if the unit can draw more than 2400W).

If you are going down the dodgy route (which I don't recommend), the "safest" thing to do is the 10 to 15amp extension lead. This way you are only putting yourself and your family at risk. Filing the earth pin will void the warranty and may cause issues in the future if you on-sell the machine with an altered plug (to an unsuspecting buyer).

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

...realistically no welder should be run on a circuit breaker as it defies the logic of what a welder does, a circuit breaker is designed to trip when it detects a short circuit which is exactly what you are creating when you strike an arc with a welder. ....

Hi Travis... I hadn't thought of this, but thinking it through (although I don't know much about this stuff) - assuming the welder was working properly I would expect that there was no earth leakage on the power input side of the welder - and therefore a circuit breaker should operate as we would hope, independent of shorts, arcs, rod sticking etc on the high amperage side of the welder? - Mick

Originally Posted by WelderMick

Hi Travis... I hadn't thought of this, but thinking it through (although I don't know much about this stuff) - assuming the welder was working properly I would expect that there was no earth leakage on the power input side of the welder - and therefore a circuit breaker should operate as we would hope, independent of shorts, arcs, rod sticking etc on the high amperage side of the welder? - Mick

In basic terms a circuit breakers disconnects a circuit if the current rises above a certain amount ... it is actually based on how much current is going through the breaker and for how long. This is why (with a suitably sized breaker) you can weld without the breaker tripping - when striking the arc the current spike is not of a long enough duration to trip the breaker. It is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS to run a welder (or anything for that matter) on a circuit without a breaker.

I think what you are describing above is an RCD (for earth leakage detection). You can normally run a welder on a circuit protected with an RCD because neither the work or handpiece are actually earthed. However I don't know what will happen if what you are welding is earthed separately - anyone have an opinion on what will happen in this situation?

If you have a decent welder it will out last the (WARRANTY).

If you TAMPER with the plug,cut it off and replace it with a new 15AMP one when you go to sell it,Takes care of the ON SELLING problem.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

If you TAMPER with the plug,cut it off and replace it with a new 15AMP one when you go to sell it,Takes care of the ON SELLING problem.

Honestly, who would really do that.

I have two pieces of equipment (welder and compressor) that I purchased second hand that both had the pin filed down (and wasn't informed of this).

As I said before (if you are hell bent on doing the dodgy) for the same effort as modifying/replacing the plugs, you could make up an "adapter" extension lead and that way you don't have to worry about warranty or resale issues.

Dodgy seller I suppose.

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

trealistically no welder should be run on a circuit breaker as it defies the logic of what a welder does, a circuit breaker is designed to trip when it detects a short circuit which is exactly what you are creating when you strike an arc with a welder.

Originally Posted by WelderMick

Hi Travis... I hadn't thought of this, but thinking it through (although I don't know much about this stuff) - assuming the welder was working properly I would expect that there was no earth leakage on the power input side of the welder - and therefore a circuit breaker should operate as we would hope, independent of shorts, arcs, rod sticking etc on the high amperage side of the welder? - Mick

You can actually buy a circuit breaker for use with welders, I have one here in my shed specifically for my MIG. As Travis said, when you strike an arc it trips the breaker, but once you've started the weld it's fine, so what you need is a breaker that has an extended delay on it for when you strike the initial arc. These are good because they'll still work as normal once you've started and if you exceed the amperage it'll trip.

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

You can actually buy a circuit breaker for use with welders, I have one here in my shed specifically for my MIG. ....

DO they have a special name?

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

DO they have a special name?

Most likely a D-curve (or D-type) breaker. Most standard breakers are C-curve.

They used to be known as "motor start" breakers as well.

Thanks, I'll have a look for that.

Can't remember what he called it but I'll have a look later and see what is written on it

I don't know if anybody else is noticing this, but the thickness of some of the newer extension leads is getting smaller. Not just the outer casing but the wire thickness.
If your after a good one for a welder, go for a builders or caravan one.
Dave

Interesting thread!

So whats a ball park figure of getting these 15amp sockets installed...if you dont have a sparky as a mate

Cheers

UglyDan