Thread: 15amp plugs

You can get a 15amp extension lead but don't get a very long one.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

You can get a 15amp extension lead but don't get a very long one.

Why's that? - expense or power loss?

You could buy a file...

/calmly walks away as the arguments begin..

Too much voltage drop in a long lead, will affect welder performance, losses are dissapated as heat in wiring, plugs etc

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

You can get a 15amp extension lead but don't get a very long one.

Originally Posted by WelderMick

Why's that? - expense or power loss?

Originally Posted by BRADFORD

Too much voltage drop in a long lead, will affect welder performance, losses are dissapated as heat in wiring, plugs etc

"You could buy a file..."


ha ha ha ha.

Yeah, I'm sure the file option is popular. I guess my concern is that the welder performance would be compromised, or I'd keep tripping fuses, or both. Is this really an issue?

Wherever you weld, if you have a 15amp plug, you will require a 15 amp socket to plug it into unless you make up a little converter/adapter lead with a 10amp plug on one end and a 15amp socket on the other or as mentioned above,, A file.

15 amp power points are a single circuit/cable back to your fuse box, with no other power points coming off that circuit. This ensures safety on high current draw machines such as welders. In general most 10 amp power points can supply 15 to 20 amps without tripping a fuse or circuit breaker, but remember that there will be many other power points connected to this circuit all drawing current if appliances are connected to them which may overload the circuit. Also remember that the house wiring cable is cut and joined at every power point and if they are not tight connections may overheat and cause a fire. So plug in to a 10 amp power point at your own risk by filing down the earth pin or change to a 10 amp plug.
Cheers.

Two schools of thought running here, put in a dedicated circuit and 15A outlet, and tweek the plug or make an adaptor lead.

Maybe the solution in your situation is to do both, put a dedicated circuit in the most suitable spot where you will generally use the unit, plus make up an adaptor cable for the times when you need to go elsewhere with the unit. If you use the adaptor cable, do so knowing that its for occassional use only, and for best performance, you need to disconnect other stuff on the circuit. It can help to plug into the first power point in the circuit string as well to minimise the number of junctions the current psses through.

Don't file the earth pin, it is permanent and many distributors consider it prima facie evidence of intent to operate the unit on inadequate power supplies, and declare the warranty void.

I have to agree Malb, any mods are a great excuse to void the warranty. Good summary of the options available too. I think my best options will be a single 15amp point in the normal welding spot, then a 10 to 15 adapter cable in case. Good point buildspacetrain re number of serial connections - hadn't thought of that. Thanks everyone - Mick

Put in a 15 amp circuit Buy a heavy duty 15 amp extension lead for other locations when you have use the extension, I have been doing this for 30+ years never had a problem

You really need a 25 amp or higher breaker on a 15 amp circuit that runs a welder.... My transmig 250 will blow the 20 amp circuit breaker after a few minutes of welding on a high voltage...

the best way to overcome it is to have a 10 amp plug end fitted by a sparky. You will be able to run up to 140 amps without a problem and seriously this is ample to run 3.2mm rods in arc function and most of your tig work would rarely exceed around 90 amps. realistically no welder should be run on a circuit breaker as it defies the logic of what a welder does, a circuit breaker is designed to trip when it detects a short circuit which is exactly what you are creating when you strike an arc with a welder. If you were to file down the plug you would have to get it changed should you ever require it getting tagged, if you want to work on any union sites and nowdays most non union sites. it generally also voids all warranty and insurance rights you have, should things go awry.

been there, done that, learned the lesson.