Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I have one of the Hare & Forbes angle vice clamps, AC-100, which I bought for $90 at one of their sales. Just checked it now for square and it's spot on. Maybe I was just lucky? It's a heavy casting and I don't always use it for corners but it certainly won't flex. If I'm building SHS frames, I'll generally clamp the pieces to my welding table, use magnetic 90s to tack corners and do a final check everywhere for squareness before completing the welds. I certainly discovered that cutting 45 degree mitres on SHS in the bandsaw didn't result in 90 degree corners when assembled. As my Tafe welding teacher used to remind us, MIGs are great for filling.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    769

    Default

    I snubbed the Hare and Forbes unit only 'cause the casting in the catalogue picture looked very similar to the Gasweld units, and if I was going to the trouble of ordering one, I might as well make sure it's a good-un. Have you checked your clamp to see if it's flat as well?

    My theory is that they give the base of the unit a quick grind then flip it over and clamp it to a mill - if the grind isn't over the whole base, it's quite possible the vice flexes when clamped, so any machining will be out once the vice flexes back when released.

    If I take the time to set the angle on the bandsaw, it does a very respectable 45, but then you've got to take the time to set it square again - I've seen an end-stop mod for my saw which stops the fence when it's back to square which I'll have to add at some point.

    All that said, any gap just means full penetration

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    I made a mitre block from 50 X 8 mm flat at 45deg with a nut welded on for a stop bar, it stops against the fixed jaw, leaving the jaws square all the time.
    Kryn

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    All that said, any gap just means full penetration
    Funny you mention that.
    A workshop that I help out in occasionally upgraded from the Makita abrasive saw or hand cut miters with 1mm discs, to a Brobo cold saw. As anyone who has had experience with cold saws will tell you, they are so accurate that you can pretty much weld up a miter without checking it for square. Anyway, tray for the new work bus was built using said cold saw. After welding, the flap disc got a run to make everything was blended for painting. The proud fabricator was standing back admiring his work and proclaiming his greatness, until some lousy sod, (ME), pointed out that there was a line on every miter where the components met. So perfect was the fit up that effectively no penetration occurred on the joints.
    Sometimes "have wire, will fill" isn't so bad after all.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    769

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    I made a mitre block from 50 X 8 mm flat at 45deg with a nut welded on for a stop bar, it stops against the fixed jaw, leaving the jaws square all the time.
    Sounds like a very handy addition - any chance of a photo?

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    521

    Default

    I used my Strong Hand 2 axis angle clamp for the first time on the weekend. It kept things really nice and square. Surprisingly square given I TIG welded this at 230 amps. I really enjoy the flow at max amps on 6mm mild. As a side note, I welded the corner joints from the inside. I guess I could have beveled them back and welded both directions. The rest of the frame is welded from both sides even though the joint penetration was good.

    I would really like one of those Strong Hand setup tables!

    IMG_1210.jpg IMG_1211.jpg IMG_1218.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    Sounds like a very handy addition - any chance of a photo?
    I would love to put up a photo, but unfortunately I'm TC (Technically Challenged), Neil DieSensei was around here one day on his epic journey and was going to show me how to do it, but WE forgot all about it. So if anyone could ABC it for me, I will, as I have a few that I would like to put up.
    Hopefully have found a thread on how to do it.
    Kryn
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 13th October 2014 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Found a thread

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by variant22 View Post
    I would really like one of those Strong Hand setup tables!
    Talk to this company, http://www.weldingtables.com.au/ . I bought one of the full size tables (http://www.weldingtables.com.au/shop...-welding-table) from him and he's very helpful and easy to talk to.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Cutter angle for a 12-060 low angle block plane
    By scoobs6170 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 22nd February 2009, 09:46 AM
  2. Clamps for right angle
    By STAR in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 4th December 2008, 12:19 PM
  3. Having trouble understanding low-angle vs high angle planes
    By wsal in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 2nd December 2008, 12:04 AM
  4. Sash clamps versus Bessey K series clamps
    By zelk in forum HINTS & TIPS
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 6th September 2007, 10:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •