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Thread: I want to buy a Stick Welder
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17th April 2009, 08:47 PM #16
Not crowing, just saying that I bought the GMC, it constantly cut out and was un-useable so I took it back and bought the Ozito.
It was a world of difference, even before I upgraded the cables, torch and earth clamp."There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it's all dark."
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17th April 2009 08:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th April 2009, 09:26 PM #17.
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It sounds there was something really wrong with that particular unit because mine has not cut out in making any of the items shown below and some of those pieces of metal are pretty chunky. The times it cuts out is when there are long continuous runs involved like when I was building a shed and repairing a trailer - clearly the wrong tool for these sorts of jobs. Anyway - like I said mine owes me nothing so if it dies tomorrow I'll have had my monies worth.
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17th April 2009, 10:51 PM #18
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22nd April 2009, 03:33 PM #19New Member
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Hi Guys,
Sorry for the slow feed back, but a few things got in the way.
All of your comments convinced me I needed to buy something that was already up a spec higher - that is, heavier duty electrode holder, earth clamp, leads, etc. So, - I bought the BOC 130 yesterday.
The BOC manual does not indicate when to use the +ve or -ve leads for the electrode holder (they are interchangeble and not fixed). Could you enlighten me as to the circumstances when I would use one or the other please.
Thanks and regards to all, Alf.
PS - will let you know about the 130's (and my) performance in a few days. I am very new to using a welder. I recently did a 15 hour course on home welding through the Hunter WEA - it was very good. For those interested the WEA is holding another in the near future.
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22nd April 2009, 05:11 PM #20
hey there
negitive to ground... that is the minus sign or sometimes (more acuratly) is a series of horizontal lines above each other that deminish in lenght with the shortest length being at the bottom.
as for the other way. i have never known anyone to use it the other way, so much so most modern expensive machines have a push and turn plug on the negitave. i'm sure someone else can give you better detail on that though
Glen boultoN
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28th April 2009, 02:54 PM #21New Member
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Hi
I am by no means any kind of expert on welding but I started with a $100 oztiko(?) welder from Bunnings and it was OK but duty cycle was hopeless. It was good for learning and general small stuff but then I started a major project and figured this machine wouldn't be up to the job.
My brother in law bought a 'Renegade' 200A inverter stick welder from Trade Tools Direct a while ago and raved about it (welded 150PFC & 250 UBs with no dramas using 4mm rods).
So, I went out and grabbed one for an absolute steal - $298 plus delivery. Unfortunately, I just went onto their website to grab the link and notice the price is up to $368 now.
http://www.tradetoolsdirect.com/Catalogue/ProductView.aspx?ProductCode=STICK200
Still a great buy - It's light and portable and so quiet - You can't compare - well worth considering.
Good luck
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28th April 2009, 07:52 PM #22Senior Member
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I think in the old days with AC it made absolutely no difference so they usually had fixed leads. With inverters polarity can play a role depending on the metal you are welding. In some cases the metal needs to be +ve and others -ve for better results.
To the OP I'm no expert but I do remember talk about DCEN and DCEP. Look up those terms and you'll get a better understanding. Make sure they are talking about arc though and not tig because it's different apparently. See also http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74173
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2nd May 2009, 11:38 PM #23Novice
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i JUST SAW A cIGWELD 120 AMP WELDER GOING FOR $89 at Homehardware what are these like good for the money I have a really old one at the moment which is a 15 amp plug and I would like to get one with a 10 amp plug
http://users.flipbook.com.au/users/homehardware/#May
cheers
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