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  1. #1
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    Default Cycle Frame welding job

    Gday all. I`m in the middle of building a stretch chopper cargo combo. (2.5m long!!) The guy who did the innitial welding has moved on & i need to have either two support tubes which i have ready or the dagger shaped piece currently taped in position welded. Liverpool area Sydney. Payment of any nature is no problem.
    CIMG0001.jpgCargoStretch N.jpg

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  3. #2
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    May 2011
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    Do you have access to oxy acetylene, if so you could spot braze it about 1-2" miss 4" and so forth.
    Kryn

  4. #3
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    Gday Kryn. Had thought of that. I feel the support tubes which basically follow a similar line of /or the dagger play an integral part of firming the main tube need to be fully welded. Can build/weld bleeding trailers (got a stick & a gasless mig) but come unstuck with a damn bicycle frame!

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldGrain View Post
    Gday Kryn. Had thought of that. I feel the support tubes which basically follow a similar line of /or the dagger play an integral part of firming the main tube need to be fully welded. Can build/weld bleeding trailers (got a stick & a gasless mig) but come unstuck with a damn bicycle frame!
    I guarantee that they don't need full welds. In fact full welds will probably hurt your case. Any cracking will occur at the toe of the last weld and a stitched weld on that dagger section will exceed by far the strength of the tube.
    How thick is the tube? 1.6 or 2.0mm electrodes may well do the job for you.

  6. #5
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    I'd do it for you if I were in Sydney. I personally prefer the idea of top tubes from the head tube/down tube intersection to the top of the cargo rack for strength, forming a kind of cargo box frame if that were suitable for your needs. Stronger than your dagger piece but harder to fit up cleanly.

  7. #6
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    I originally had two support tubes - one either side of the head tube - you can see where i cut them off on in pic. The other side you can just see where (below the curtain) it (the tube) was welded to cargo frame. Why did i cut them off? I decided to add a springer fork which fouled on lock to lock. Currently i have a definitive 9 to 3 left/right lock. Thanks though for all the ideas/advice.Gives me something to work on.

  8. #7
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    Cool

    Oh yeah, I see. I was thinking more of some creative bending and coping so that the top tubes intersect at about a 45 degree angle with the head tube. Then there'd be no fouling issues. You'd need to be handy with the hole saw and a die grinder though.

  9. #8
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    Seems to be just a few bending loads on that frame and fork v the normal cargo bike, if you loaded it up without a compression tube, even with the brace. You could try Peter Bundy, who was over at Riverwood last I heard, judging by the cut-off, it's no thin wall bike tube, so hardly framebuilder touch required....and there's no shortage of welders in Liverpool and surrounds who could do it, but the liability aspect might scare them off without knowing what the rest is like.

  10. #9
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    CIMG0146.jpgCIMG0147.JPGCIMG0148.jpg
    So a few pics re welding red coloured tube supports which better suits the design aspect also. One thing i did forget to mention is in Pic 2 (arrow) there is a circumference weld (with an insert) where this main tube continues up to fork tube/down & along as part of the cargo frame. Innitially i had centre steer off the middle upright tube but have since added ape hangers & moved bars to front.It makes for a much more comfortable ride.

  11. #10
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    The more of a box you can make, the stronger it will be, if that's an issue. I.e. top tubes from the head tube to the top of the back of the cargo rack, parallel to the ground.

  12. #11
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    Looking at your picture https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...1&d=1430213938 the forks appear very light for the angle they are mounted at. I realise that there are arms that come up to the spring suspension, but it looks awfully light to me from what I can see. The main tube of the frame appears quite beefy in comparison.

  13. #12
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    Gday Karl. The original build utilised standard Huffy mtb forks which worked well. I then decided the look wasn`t what i wanted & opted for the 26" springer fork having spoken with the Melb based stockist who assured me they would be just as strong as they use these on their modded dragsters/choppers,some of which are around the same length as mine. Once fitted i then knew it needed apes as opposed to the straight mid mounted bars & i now have the look i want. Once i sort the welding situation out (have since found a local co that will do the job) theres a couple of lockable abs panniers to fit on rear rack,one of which will house a battery to power the twin 12v headlights & the factory fitted pannier tail lights.Making use of the central upright tube by adding a 'dash board' which will house an 8" ipad/mobile phone connection/switches with wiring down the tube,under frame to battery.

  14. #13
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    No worries mate, bikes aren't really my field of expertise as such.
    Iphones and Ipads on a dashboard - sounds like this is going to be the starship enterprise of the bike world.
    Certainly an interesting build.

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