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  1. #31
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    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    His welder will run them provided his power supply is okay.
    I have good power & a dedicated 20amp circuit to plug into.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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  3. #32
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    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    ...
    One thing for sure, the shaft needs a lot more weld prep before it gets welded up this time. If it were me, I would prep it down to a 15-20mm diameter point and then tack it up, preheat to 200 C weld it up and cool slowly.
    Ta, I'll give that a go.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #33
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    Oct 2006
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    Armidale NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Trade practices says that they have to sell them at the advertised price.
    Really? I was under the impression that no seller can be compelled to sell i.e. they have the right to refuse to sell to you.

    EDIT : Here is a link that confirms my thoughts - https://www.qld.gov.au/law/your-righ...played-prices/
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  5. #34
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    Sep 2002
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    The wording is "Withdraw the product from sale until the price is correct."

    Not many places will do that.

    These blokes already know the price is wrong on the internet & they haven't been able to get it fixed.

    They also knew that if they withdrew it from sale, I'd go elsewhere.

    They had me there in the shop, they had the goods on the counter, they weren't about to lose me to a competitor.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  6. #35
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    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    The wording is "Withdraw the product from sale until the price is correct."
    Which is very different from your original statement, which was
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
    Trade practices says that they have to sell them at the advertised price.
    I was simply clarifying that they do not HAVE to sell you the item for the advertised price, although as you point out it may still be in their best interest to do so.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  7. #36
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    OK, how about this then.... "Trade practices says that they have to sell them at the advertised price, if they want to sell them."
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #37
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    Perfect
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  9. #38
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    Sep 2002
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    OK, some progress.

    Before I started, I spent a couple of hours before lunch practicing with the new rods.

    I had some 12mm steel that I wanted to mount a couple of pieces of RHS onto so I clamped that up & heated it up & got stuck into it.

    During the day while it was nice & warm in the sunshine, I found that 100A worked best with the 7016 rods.

    I tried several different settings from 100A up to about 125A, too hot melted holes in the RHS.

    I ground it back & did it again a couple of times til I was happy.

    After lunch, I started on the real thing.

    Yesterday I ground the shaft to more of a point leaving about a 12mm circle in the centre.

    That allowed me to balance it on the ball joint cap & clamp it in place.

    I heated it up with my gas blow torch & got stuck into it.

    Again, I ground it back & inspected it as I went.

    As the afternoon went on & the sun dipped behind the trees & the weld built up, I found I had to wind the current up.

    Eventually I was running it at about 130A but every time I stopped to clean it up to inspect it, it lost too much heat.

    I also found that each time I went for a new rod, it was very hard to get it started properly until it warmed up.

    I gave up & called it a day, I have ground it back to inspect it & tomorrow, when it is warmer, I'll build it up a bit more.P1020814 (Large).JPGP1020817 (Large).JPG
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  10. #39
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    363

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    I also found that each time I went for a new rod, it was very hard to get it started properly until it warmed up.
    That's surprising. It would suggest not enough current to me. Are these the 4.0mm rods? Anyway, clamp a scrap piece of plate or sheet to the circuit and drag the rod over that so it's hot (or run a short bead). While still hot, switch over to your job.

  11. #40
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    I'm using 3.2mm Kobe LB52U rods, they are a 7016 rod.

    They were fine while it was still sunny & warm.

    I found that dragging the fresh rod along a bit of scrap warmed it up.

    I noticed that the last time I tried to use low hydrogen rods too, that time I worked out that leaving a couple of rods in the sun to warm up helped as well.

    Maybe I need one of those heated quivers.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  12. #41
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    Murray Bridge SA
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    When you have got it completed, I suggest that you don't grind the welds, as that creates something like scratches, that could cause it to crack through the weld. IMHO as it's something I'd always been taught.
    I know this is going back half a century, but that is where the old pie warmer welders were great, pre heating rods etc. I made the Hand rail support for the free way overpass at Mt Barker, with one of those, all TIG welded. Sorry if this is a bit off topic.
    Kryn

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    When you have got it completed, I suggest that you don't grind the welds.....
    Oooo.... this shaft has to go through a hole in the goose neck on the front of the grader.

    That part is about 990kms away from here.

    I reckon there may be some grinding to make it fit after I have finished building it up.

    Particularly since my welding isn't good enough to leave a nice smooth surface.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    It is a pity 4mm is too big for you... I have about 400kg of 7018's to give away...
    Arrived today, they are actually 2 x 1.5Kg packs of Lincon Electric Kryo 1P, E8018-G-H4R, thanks for that.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  15. #44
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    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney
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    910

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    It may be way cheaper to find a spare part.
    “We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
    than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”

    Friedrich Nietzsche


  16. #45
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    Lebrina
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    I doubt you will find spares as this machine is a custom modification of an original machine.
    All in all this shouldn't be an expensive repair.

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