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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Default Internal corner technique

    I usually avoid them and try to fit up a different way, but I set myself up today with a piece of 40NB pipe with a plate on each end with four gussets on each plate/end, so plenty of internal corners. I try to continue around them, but as you approach, physical constraints mean you end up having to push flux into the corner. Then the quick change of direction and what was ending up happening was a fluxy corner after cleaning up. The whole point was to make the corner neat and strong, but they ended up the messiest part.

    Do you do what I was doing - start along the fillet, head into the corner (ending up pushing flux), then continue out? If so, how do you control the pushed flux?

    Or do you start in the corner each time and head out?

    Stick welding, 2.6mm RB-26, heavy bar and thick pipe, 80A DCEP, 1F and 2F positions.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Legion View Post
    I usually avoid them and try to fit up a different way, but I set myself up today with a piece of 40NB pipe with a plate on each end with four gussets on each plate/end, so plenty of internal corners. I try to continue around them, but as you approach, physical constraints mean you end up having to push flux into the corner. Then the quick change of direction and what was ending up happening was a fluxy corner after cleaning up. The whole point was to make the corner neat and strong, but they ended up the messiest part.

    Do you do what I was doing - start along the fillet, head into the corner (ending up pushing flux), then continue out? If so, how do you control the pushed flux?

    Or do you start in the corner each time and head out?

    Stick welding, 2.6mm RB-26, heavy bar and thick pipe, 80A DCEP, 1F and 2F positions.
    I've found those RB-26's to generate heaps of flux - probably the most I've ever experienced with any rod. So that's part of your problem. Run of the mill Gemini 12's are better in this regard.
    Do your gussets go all the way to the fillet (like the right hand side in the pic) or is there a gap (left)? If you have the gap it might be easier?
    I would start in the corner (strike an arc 1" out, then backtrack quickly right to the corner), then weld outwards.
    Or another option is to tip your work over each time, so that you are welding uphill into the corner all the time so that your rod angle and arc force is pushing the weld pool into the corner and your slag is drawn away from the corner by gravity.
    Cheers
    - Mick


    gusset.PNG

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    The gap would be easier, if I could just eliminate the corners altogether. But no, I just cut up some heavy bar stock into triangles.

    I do have some Geminis, fresh pack, but in 2.0mm and I have some WIA 12P, but I'm saving those for positional stuff because they cost twice as much. I wanted Geminis in 2.6mm but on the weekend when I was in the welding shop they didn't have that size.

    I'll think about the vertical up technique, good idea.

    This was kind of a one off, using up some old stuff lying around so I intentionally wanted to experiment, but it didn't work out how I wanted so I was curious what the best technique is.

    Thanks for the tips Mick.

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