Thread: Inverter stick comparisons

Originally Posted by Groggy

I'd like to see some pics please!

Hi Groggy,

Pics below. These will be on our website in the coming days. Happy New year everyone,

Cheers
Pete

Thanks for the pics!

SPECIFICATIONS

Input Power
3- or 1-Phase Power Autoline technology allows you to plug into anything
from a household socket to 3Phase in the Workshop

Output Power
AC/DC

PROCESS
TIG (GTAW)
Pulsed TIG (GTAW-P)
Stick (SMAW)

TIG Rated Output
200 A at 18 V, 20% Duty Cycle
150 A at 16 V, 60% Duty Cycle
140 A at 15.6 V, 40% Duty Cycle
100 A at 14 V, 100% Duty Cycle

Stick Rated Output
200 A at 28 V, 20% Duty Cycle
130 A at 25.2 V, 60% Duty Cycle
100 A at 24 V, 60% Duty Cycle
90 A at 23.6 V, 100% Duty Cycle

Welding Capability

Aluminum Min.
0.020" (0.5 mm)
Steel Min.
0.004" (0.1 mm)


Aluminum Max.
1/4" (6.4 mm)
Steel Max.
1/4" (6.4 mm)

Welding Amperage Range
1-200 Amps (1-150 on 120 VAC)

Net Weight
(20.5 kg)

And the price???

Originally Posted by RustyArc

And the price???

LOL Bloody Expensive..........................

Originally Posted by RustyArc

And the price???

They will be $499 including GST and free delivery Auswide.

Cheers
Pete

Thanks for the price on the Tokentools unit - I was referring to the Miller dynasty 200dx since I think it's useful to list both features and price.

From what I can tell, the Miller unit goes for about $7,650 plus $419 for the torch kit and $549 for a foot control.

I got mine for 6k neat including torch, footpedal & fittings

Originally Posted by RustyArc

Thanks for the price on the Tokentools unit - I was referring to the Miller dynasty 200dx since I think it's useful to list both features and price.

From what I can tell, the Miller unit goes for about $7,650 plus $419 for the torch kit and $549 for a foot control.

You can pick them up for $3000 Aud in the US from online suppliers. Allow an extra $1500 for air freight, customs and GST.

Cheers
Pete

I posted above that I was in shock over a particular ebay seller. Then I took some advice from a forumite and did some googling. Without going in to it, I think I'll buy a welder from a shop where I can go back to if something goes awry. I spoke to the bloke at BOC who suggested one of their 130 amp inverter stick welders and that's the way I'll go. Thanks for all the valuable information contained in this discussion and I hoep it helps others as well.

So I went out and bought the BOC 130 amp inverter welder. First blunder was to connect the leads the wrong way around. There are two terminals marked +ve and -ve. I just assumed the earth would be negative but no... It seems that by making the positive earth it is a DC machine?? I thought AC current became DC by passing through a diode bridge? I was going to go for the 160amp but I took heed of what was said here and I do remember something about a 15A GPO having to have its own feed. I don't have that so went for the 130. Isn't it amazing how the stick will arc out just as you raise the shield . When I get financial I'll get one of those auto darkening ones.

My test welds looked OK so thanks again for the advice and suggestions.

Congtrats on the purchase - the BOC Smootharc 130 is a great little machine.

It is a DC machine and it does have diodes inside, but being an inverter the process is slightly different to a transformer machine. The end result is the same.

Whether the earth clamp should be connected to +ve or -ve seems to be open to debate - the terminoligy more often refers to the polarity of the welding electrode, so you'll see terms like DCEN (DC voltage, electrode negative, which obviously means the earth clamp will be positive).

I assumed initally that DCEN was the "correct" polarity for pretty much all stick welding except some kind of exotic rods. Then I discovered that every packet of rods I looked at recommended either polarity, not one in particular, then I discovered that a whole heap of people think DCEP is the "norm".

Having tried both polarities, I found the difference between the two is damn hard to pick using ordinary 6013 rods, so I remain mystefied, but generally stick to DCEN.

Thanks Rusty
When I saw the two poles I did wonder. It's been a long time since I welded (45years) but I seem to remember that the stick is worked in a way that you "push" the tip of it to "fold" the weld? I'm sorry this is not making much sense. A bloke told me to "platt" the weld so in a bead, you're constantly shoving the molten metal up under itself.
I just can't remember. I know this guy (45 years ago) said if you just lay a bead of weld down in a straight line it won't have the same strength. Sorry for the way it's experssed
Peter

For stick welding you draw the rod away from the weld area - the idea is to create a pool of molten metal at the tip of the rod and draw it along, making sure the weld pool is maintained. There's a heap of guides and videos on the net that should help.