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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    363

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    Well, I obviously had money burning a hole in my pocket because I bought the 140A Kemppi. I could've gone with one of the bigger machines (150A Kemppi (same machine with different plug), 170A Lincoln, $$$ Esab) but would've had to rewire the shed for 15A and that would've doubled the price (but I need to think about this eventually instead of compromising all the time).

    I could've also saved my money and stuck with the Smootharc, which I've been very happy with.

    However, I ran a few rods on the Kemppi and it's a whole new world. As you mentioned Grahame, VRD makes it a pain to ignite after the first run. Even with my usual piece-of-scrap method it refuses to relight unless you're very, very quick moving from the scrap to the work. I used to just clamp on the scrap in one location and scratch on it to remove the frozen flux and then I'd have maybe 3 seconds of easy starting time with the Smootharc so I could reach across to the work location. With the Kemppi there's about half a second if that, and I can't just scratch it on the scrap, I have to get it burning properly so I wasted a bit of rod doing that. I might have to find a new method to restart rods (like using a coarse file that someone once mentioned?).

    Amps run much lower than on the Smootharc. I took some 25mm x 2mm SHS and cut it into 30-40mm long sections and joined them in a chain of Ts. All regular flat welding, nothing positional yet. At first I set it up with 2.0mm Gemini 12 rods, DCEP, 55A to tack. No problem. But fillets with 55A was way too much, blew a couple of holes. I ended up on 48A for fillets and 38A for butts and that was fine, but I didn't have much time to experiment and I will dial it in more in future. I'd love to get a clamp meter on it and check what the actual input is, compared to the Smootharc.

    The reason I preferred it to my Smootharc was the welds themselves. I think it must be the auto adaptive arc force thing, but it was very smooth. With the Smootharc, particularly fillets, it felt I'd put a lot more heat and power in and just blast away. If my amps were too low on the Smootharc I felt I'd get a wandering arc and occasional bad weld with a caterpillar crawling from one piece to the other (usually only on fillets). The fix was to crank it up a few more amps but then you were juggling with holes. The Kemppi feels quieter and smoother and less amps. It is easier to see the weld pool and more controlled and refined.

    First few fillets were so close to the edge of the T'd other piece that I blew that little exposed 5mm edge away. No surprise there. But after a few I was getting it more controlled. The butt welds were simple, controlled and clean. After the early mistakes getting the feel for it I did some of the best welds I've done.

    I still need to cut up another length of square pipe and do more practice before I get stuck into the big job that I'm using to justify the welder purchase (complex custom trailer) but today's messing around was all positive.

    Leads are obviously much nicer than the Smootharc leads. The electrode holder is rock solid and feels nice to grip, whereas the Smootharc feels like its price tag. Not bad, but you know it's not a $1000 machine.

    One interesting thing was when you switch it on the cooling fan doesn't switch on. Machine just sits there, silent, with a few LEDs lit up. Start welding and in short order the fan fires up and it's a weird one - very electronic humming sound, not like a regular computer case fan.

    The guys at the shop gave me a good deal and I got some extras like gloves, rods, ehoma clamps too. Osborne Park welding, great little shop where I sometimes get supplies.

    I'll probably put the little Smootharc up for sale on gumtree unless someone in Perth from the forum is interested - PM me if so. Probably $100, no problems with it, great starter machine. I'd love to keep it as a backup in case the Kemppi has any issues but realistically I don't need two machines.

    So in summary - the Smootharc was awesome as my first welder. Great for rods from 1.6mm to 3.2mm (never tried 4.0mm). Great on slightly more forgiving material (anything 2.5mm or thicker). Certainly doable on 1.6mm and 2.0mm material with care. That's what I did most of my welding on.

    Early signs are the Kemppi is a more refined, easier to use machine. I'm sure it handles the thicker stock just as well as the Smoothard and I think it will do better than the Smootharc on the thin stuff once I dial it up.

    I will update the thread as I gain experience with it.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    769

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    Bit late replying to this, but thanks for posting your findings. It sounds like the Miniarc is typically exhibiting less "arc force" than the Smootharc. To put it in more technical terms, it seems the Smootharc has relatively high (and fixed) arc force behaviour, in that it lets the actual amps rise considerably above the dial setting. Probably a good thing for thicker sections where you want the extra heat. Probably not such a good thing for thin sections. As I've mentioned, my UniMIG combo has much tighter control of amps - you set 100A and it won't let the actual amps go any higher than that, so that'd be low arc force. I'll have to try the UniMIG on some thin section to see if this makes it easier than with the Smootharc.

    That said, from the specs, the Miniarc is a bit more sophisticated in that it can automatically vary the arc force, although I'd like to know what algorithm it uses to decide when to let the amps go higher.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    363

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    The Lincoln that Grahame was talking about also has auto adaptive arc force. I wonder how its algorithm compares.

    Today I did more test welding. With 1.6mm Gemini 12 rods, I went as low as 25A, just running a bead along a face of some SHS in the flat position. The beginning of each run was too cold, but once it warmed up enough (after about 15-25mm on various runs) it actually ran quite well. Slow travel speed and the funny thing was, the SHS was galv (maybe Duragal?) and once or twice it went pop! and burned a hole through. I could see it quite clearly. But after knocking off the slag, the hole was gone. It didn't do the usual thing when it blows a hole with normal amperage, when you get the hollow sound and there's nothing you can do but stop or quickly move somewhere else. Just a loud pop! and a visible hole that disappeared afterwards.

    Surprisingly, at 28A the 1.6mm rods ran very well, with a neat controllable bead. Slow travel speed, no holes, not too cold, good penetration.

    But I only ran a couple of 1.6mm rods.

    Then I went with 2.0mm Gemini 12s (I rediscovered them the other day after quite some time on RB-26s - the Geminis burn very nicely I reckon and about the same price as RB-26). I went as low as 30A, not too bad, but just in the flat position. 35A was definitely manageable with good penetration and a nice slow speed and no holes. Then I did some butts and fillets and positional stuff. I'm still deciding, but at the moment I'm around 38-40A for butts, 48-50A for fillets. +10A for tacks for each weld type. I might go a little higher tomorrow and increase travel speed a bit and see what happens.

    Still learning and experimenting, a few mistakes, but generally pretty good. The positional stuff was nice - I could do horizontal butts and fillets, overhead butts and along a SHS face, overhead 45 degrees fillets, vertical down, all with the same amperage I'd use for the flat stuff. The only one that was beyond me was vertical up, and I tried a couple of times, dropping down to 32A. The SHS is 2.0mm I think so I'm not surprised that vertical up was impossible.

    The Geminis are nice for this positional stuff. I spent a lot of time with RB-26 and it has a very fluid slag in comparison. Anything besides flat is a challenge with those. The weld ends up looking alright afterwards but the slag just flows and flows in big blobs and it's a bit disconcerting.

    Anyway, very impressed with this welder. I pushed it a bit, not cleaning off the galv (and then after doing the same with some rusty painted stuff). So contact was bad but it still held a steady clean arc all the time. It just feels smoooooth. Much smoother than the Smootharc, funnily enough.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    363

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    I'm loving the Kemppi. There are two downsides:

    - if you don't use it for a while, the fan shuts off to save a couple of watts. At the moment I'm working in the driveway and only have the one extension cord. When the welder is silent I've twice come very close to pulling the plug to use the grinder while the welder is still on. The one time I did that with the Smootharc pretty much every RCD in the house tripped.
    - I've taken to using a file to break off the old flux to restart rods. I position it near the job and pick it up as required. Twice I've struck the file in place with one hand while it's lying on the job, out of laziness, with the hood up, and copped an eyeful of arc. The Smootharc was easier to restart and I didn't need to break off the old flux as forcefully. I used a pics of scrap positioned near the weld as a strike plate and that was enough.

    But apart from those two issues it's great. The digital display is great for repeatability.

    And I found a new source for Gemini 12s for $7.77/2kg in the 2.6mm size. They are nicer than the Kobes for sure, although the Kobe's produce a nice weld, unfortunately not as versatile in positional work. 65A in 1G, 78A in 3G (vertical down), 88A in 3F (vertical down), 3mm and 2.5mm SHS and RHS, went through most of a 2kg box today.
    I can't bring myself to open the new box of Kobe's sitting there, nor to finish off the 10 or so rods in the last box.

    I sold the Smootharc for $100 on Gumtree.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    363

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    I tripped over the cord today, pulling it out of the extension cord and it didn't trip the RCDs in the house, none of them.

    And yesterday I had a moment when I'd been measuring and fitting and the fan had turned off so everything was silent and then I was walking around the work and almost moved the electrode holder against the work, not thinking it was on. So the fan thing kind of sucks, for what would just be a few Watts. I'd prefer to know when the machine is on.

    But very happy with it still. Using a file to knock off the slag makes it start instantly every time, much better than my old technique of a scrap strike plate.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    725

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    Quote Originally Posted by Legion View Post
    And I found a new source for Gemini 12s for $7.77/2kg in the 2.6mm size. They are nicer than the Kobes for sure, although the Kobe's produce a nice weld, unfortunately not as versatile in positional work. 65A in 1G, 78A in 3G (vertical down), 88A in 3F (vertical down), 3mm and 2.5mm SHS and RHS, went through most of a 2kg box today.
    I can't bring myself to open the new box of Kobe's sitting there, nor to finish off the 10 or so rods in the last box.
    Just save the Kobe's for somewhere you want some nice flat welds - they're a great rod in the right situation and I always have a box around, but I don't use many of them.
    That's a great price for the the Gemini's - where's that?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    363

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    Gemini's are from SBA Supplies in WA. Just to confirm they didn't make a typo, I bought their last three boxes yesterday @ $7.773 per 2kg pack after almost finishing off the other 4kg worth over the weekend. Not sure how the 0.3c is calculated at the checkout. I said I'd get some more if they have them when I go back to pick up a paint order.

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