Thread: One little big job

For horizontals- you need approx. 1.5mm penitration gap with a 1.5mm landing. Bevel both pieces so the included angle is 60-70 degrees. This way you will be able to weld from one side(down hand)
For verticle up- Same as above but vee both sides. You should back grind oppisite side after your root run to make sure you have full peno.
As for wire, maybe go for flux core as the slag will help hold the filler material up on both welds.
You should notch the webb to make sure you get full peno of the flange, which is critical for the strength of the beam.

See if I understand

Bevel 60 degree (V groove) OK, how deep? Half way (5mm) or more?
Gap 1.5 mm ... meaning separation from each other? Not touching each other?

How wide must the flat (not beveled) section be?

The 'landing' is tthe flat part that you dont bevel, I hope that makes sense(1.5mm)
You're right about the gap. I use a 20cent coin to set the gap. Use low amps for the root run,it
might pay touse some plate to practise as youdont want to blow holes in the job.
What are you extending the beam for?

HI, I seen last year a Qualified Boiler Maker extending an I Beam. I will try to explain how He done it. If I knew how to Post a picture on this Site I would. Basically He did not Cut straight through the Beam and then Butt the pieces together and weld them up. He did it this way - 1. He Cut through the Top of the Beam first about 150mm to 200mm away from one end. 2. Then He Cut down halfway through the Beam. 3. Then He Cut along the middle (Web) about 150mm to 200mm long to the end of the Beam. 4. Then He Cut down through the rest of the Beams middle. 5. Then He Cut through the bottom of the Beam. 6. He then did the same to another I Beams end. 7. Prepared the two Pieces for Welding. 8. Then He Welded the two Pieces together.
All Cutting was done with an Oxy Cutter. He used a Mig with gas Shielding. If You were to draw two pieces of an I Beam. Then pretend Your Pen/Pencil was an Oxy Cutter and follow my steps you would clearly understood what I mean. The way He joined the I Beams creates a much stronger joint than simply butting them together.
I hope this contribution is of some Help.
All the Best steran50 Stewart

Originally Posted by Col James

The 'landing' is tthe flat part that you dont bevel, I hope that makes sense(1.5mm)
You're right about the gap. I use a 20cent coin to set the gap. Use low amps for the root run,it
might pay touse some plate to practise as youdont want to blow holes in the job.
What are you extending the beam for?

Very thin landing.
I'll see if I can get a few slizes of I beam from a factory that prepares industrial roof trusses to practice.
Steran50. I understand that there would be much better ways to cut and join an I beam, however I have no choice since the beam is already cut and right against the post that is holding it up. I can not make any Z type of joint.
The extension is to correct a defect in the building. For some reason unknow to me, the builder decided to finish the side of the veranda at an angle to the rest of the house. I want to square it up. For that I must extend both the floor bearers. The post that hold the beares up will remain in place so the little extension will cantilever. Post and bearer are steel, floor joist are 10x2 oregon. As you can imagine a steel I beam of 300 x 150 is an overkill for a veranda, but it is a continuation of the rest of the building and that is the way it was made in order to minimise the number of post under the house to free up space I suppose. Once I make the veranda stright, I can fix the roof that is also cut at an angle and the water that runs along the roof sheets, cut at an angle runs in the fascia along the edge. A pig of a job.

I have done have done something similar in the past but it was on machinery with Bisalloy fabricated beams. Unless he had awelding procedure to to do that type of prep I bet he was getting payed by the hour!As under normal condisions this wouldn't be required. I have welded beams for cranes in the past and the prcedure was as I discribed. The main thing is to make sure the weld is sound. And for that company, that ment Xraying them.

You dont need beam off cuts to practice just some scrap plate. The meathod I've described is standerd for most butt welds.

You need to get this right first time. As it's on an existing building hire a Boilermaker to do the job and avoid many hassles.

I think it may be wise to hire a qualified welder for this job, you don't want to f**k up a load bearing I beam.

Ha ha guys, thank you for the vote of confidence. Yes you are right it must be done right but there is always the grinder.
Besides, I bought the welder to use it not to pay someone else. It's like my chainsaw. I have 4 of them so no chance to go and buy firewood right?

I'll post some photos when I get to it. Meantime I am working on a 7' security fence that would have cost me $4000 had I bought the materials new. As it is, I bought left overs from other jobs, still new but mismatched colours and sizes, with a bit of welding and painting costs me $450 plus the welder. Bargain. And I get to play with the cement mixer to concrete the post in.

Originally Posted by Col James

You dont need beam off cuts to practice just some scrap plate. The meathod I've described is standerd for most butt welds.

I understand. I just want to get the feeling of welding in different position as it will be when I do it for real. I haven't had this much fun since I was a Blacksmith apprendice.

Im a BM and the boys are right, you dont want to stuff it up. But if you do a bit of practice you should be right. I see what chippys do with timber and it scares me
compared to how I'd do it in steel, but they know what there doing, so I'm sure a 300beam will hold a little more than say a 4b2 of oregon for a verander, I recon it will even take afew hanging potplants that you wife could hang off the end if you drill some holes in the end of the bottom flange before you put the beam up.
I'll give some constructive criticism of any photos you have of your test pieces

I agree, If I get about 3 inches of welding right, at the top side of the web it will hold up the veranda, the roof and a party of 10 dining on top of it.
Besides, to find a boilermaker? must be kidding! Couldn't find a plumber who could unblock successfully a sink around here. A tiler I had to "import" from afar and give food and accommodation for a night in order to get a shower floor tiled at premium price and lousy quality.
And I could go on.
Must do most of the stuff myself

I'll give some constructive criticism of any photos you have of your test pieces

Cool. I'll take some pictures of my security fencing weld this w/end. The beam welding may take me a few extra weeks

had to do something similiar after a design change to an upstairs machine room so after doing the butt welds we welded 5mm steel plate 100x200 over each face of upright way over engineers specs but he was very happy