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Thread: Plan B?
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19th December 2010, 10:52 AM #1Intermediate Member
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Plan B?
I recently bought a folding massage table from a Salvoes opportunity shop and am converting it to a painters platform as it is very sturdy, folds away nicely and the leg length is adjustable.
I managed to weld (arc) steel checker-plate as a standing surface to the top frame but with some difficulty as I blew a number of holes in the 1.2 mm square tubing.
Now I've noticed that when my rather large body is standing on it, the plastic inserts to the legs (they're at an angle to the ground) are quickly crushed when on a hard surface...
Plan A is cutting off the legs at an angle and welding square pieces to the ends...but I know I'm going to phuck that up...due to the thickness and being "end" pieces...
Apart from going on a diet can anyone think of a better Plan B?
Thanks.
Graeme.
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19th December 2010 10:52 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th December 2010, 10:18 AM #2Intermediate Member
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Plan B
Think your on the right path. Just make sure you get the angle right to the floor and put a reasonable size plate on it i.e at least 1 and half times the box width. Short of re-designing the whole table..... its about as good as it gets i think.
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20th December 2010, 02:16 PM #3Intermediate Member
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How about making some hardwood end plugs with a bit more meat to the foot?
You could then shape them to the desired angle.
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21st December 2010, 06:08 PM #4Senior Member
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You could weld a bit of flat onto the plate and bolt the flat to the side of your leg
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22nd December 2010, 11:49 AM #5Intermediate Member
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Thanks for the tips and suggestions guys.
I eventually got brave and welded 5 mm thick squares to the leg ends which had been cut to the correct angle. I couldn't make the squares too big otherwise the table wouldn't fold properly. The only real problem was the new end prevented telescoping of the legs to the first hole, which I had to re-drill.
I don't really understand why I had no trouble welding the leg ends compared to the checker-plate on the frame...? (around 80 amps with 2.5 mm satincrafts). I'm an amateur.
Love to show you a photo of the completed table, but I've lost the USB cable to the camera.
Cheers
Graeme.
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