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Thread: Temporary anti-rust solutions?
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9th October 2014, 11:27 AM #16.
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The vapor pressure of camphor corresponds to a concentration of 1472 mg/m3 in air at 20 C, thus you definitely do not want to be in an environment saturated with camphor vapor, even at 20 C.
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I also use camphor blocks to prevent rust in my tool box drawers and fortunately my workspace is not air-tigh
Do you wear a gas mask when you open the tool boxes/cupboards?
My experience of sheds in Australia is that they are not that well ventilated.
Most wood workers use dust extractors that recycle air inside their sheds and during my study of wood dust where I visted around 20 sheds I only saw one shed that had an externally venting dust extraction system.
In higher density neighbourhoods, to keep noise from bothering neighbours there is also a tendency to keep doors and windows closed
Anyway it's really good that you raised the need for ventilation, but I still wouldn't be using camphor blocks to protect work or tools.
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9th October 2014 11:27 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th October 2014, 11:39 AM #17
[QUOTE=BobL;1812714]So your tool boxes/cupboards basically contain an camphor vapour atmosphere more than 100 times above the TVL?
Do you wear a gas mask when you open the tool boxes/cupboards?
/QUOTE]
No, no gas mask. I avoid picking up my tools with my nose however.
careful where you put your nose.JPG
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30th November 2014, 06:40 PM #18Senior Member
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Follow-up: I have sprayed a few jobs with lanolin spray. They have been outside including in the rain for a few weeks and not a hint of rust. It has the typical lanolin shearing shed tackiness after it dries. I haven't tried cleaning it off to paint yet, I hope that works. I've got citrus spray for that.
Just now I welded up a test piece of scrap and sprayed it all over with lanolin and then tig welded a few beads, one autogenous and about half a dozen with filler. The autogenous one crackled at first (the lanolin was still a thin liquid film so quite a lot) and then welded fine but there were two pinhole porosities visible. The ones with filler didn't crackle at all and the beads looked fine. Since the autogenous one was first it probably had the most lanolin and maybe the heat cooked away some of the rest (it was still visible and wet in places I welded though).
I did a couple with citrus spray as well. One I left just citrus, one I then cleaned with acetone after the orange. Both welded fine but no noticeable difference to the lanolin (except the smell).
I wouldn't intentionally weld over lanolin for a job I cared about but I wanted to test on scrap. I wouldn't feel bad about using lanolin to prevent rust, cleaning it away with citrus -> acetone and then welding. I reckon that this is exactly what prompted the thread in the first place and lanolin is a good solution to my problem.
One interesting thing is the area that is welded turns black, even if it's cooled down first. Actually, the stuff I did today I sprayed while it was still hot and it didn't, but the stuff I had previously done had probably mostly cooled and the welds turned black, on all of about 20 or more welds I sprayed.
Out of interest this was 25mm x 1.6mm SHS, galv and painted, ground clean. Settings:
2.4mm 2% lanthanated
1.6mm ER70S-6 filler
120A w/ pedal
250pps, 40% high, 25% background (just because I already had pulse on, not specially because of the sprays or anything)
I reckon if tig can handle it no fuss, I wouldn't even bother cleaning it off if I was stick or mig welding.
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3rd December 2014, 07:10 AM #19
Canola oil in a pressure can, cheap and available in any supermarket. Not only will stop the rust but will act as anti spatter.
“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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3rd December 2014, 11:18 AM #20.
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Canola is good for short term operations but eventually when exposed to air it turns into a solid. That may be desirable as the layer is moderately tough but can be a nuisance to remove if you want to paint. I found this our when using canola in my auxiliary oiler on my chainsaw mill and on one of the mills that I left for 12 months it totally gummed up the bar/chain/valve and tubing.
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3rd December 2014, 11:39 AM #21
Yeh I gave up on canola as an antispatter.. it realy does not work well....antispatter in a spray tin is not much more expensive if you buy well and it does not misbehave like canola does.
Realy you would have to go a long way to find something better than plain clean light mineral oil...which is more or less what antispatter is.
Lanolin can be hard to get off....um that is sort of the point of it.
If ya welds have gone black...well somethng is burning in the shielding cloud.....
Ever done any blueing of steel...hmmm
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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3rd December 2014, 11:49 AM #22Senior Member
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The welds looked fine afterwards, and then I finished the job up and it's all good, and then before packing up for the day I sprayed them down with lanolin and they just changed colour within the HAZ. Surrounding clean metal stays clean and normal coloured, HAZ turns black. This is long after the HAZ has cooled to the touch.
But it didn't happen on the weekend for some reason, when they were still hot or warm and I was experimenting to update this thread.
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