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14th September 2011, 07:58 PM #16Intermediate Member
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you can tig .8mm sheet. maybe just practise a bit first before attacking the car panels, maybe in the same position as the panel of the car, to get the feel of it. keep an air gun or a bottle of water close to cool the sheet down as your welding or distortion will take over. as you may not be able to get a piece of copper in behind the panel. is it possible to use some 1.2mm zinc? you would be able to concentrate more heat into it rather than the .8mm panels
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14th September 2011, 11:10 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Do you mean zincanneal sheet? not sure if this'll work - Anything with zinc makes tig welding a real pain as the zinc vapourises and gathers on the tungsten like you wouldn't believe.
If your fit up isn't perfect (i.e. no gaps) it is virtually impossible to get a butt tack on thin material without filler rod - the edges will just retreat at they melt away. Use some filler for your tacks. You could try positioning the filler rod so that when you initiate the arc, the filler is right there on the joint to take some of the heat and add metal.
Have you tried to run a bead (with or without filler) on a flat bit of 0.8m? I know you were just trying to tack, but If you can't run a bead like that you're going to really struggle doing a joint.
Be prepared to go through a few of those disposable cylinders before you get a good system going - I think they hold about 10mins worth of gas each (60 litres at a minimum of 6 LPM) - which will go very quickly when using a manual valve.
Cheers
- Mick
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15th September 2011, 08:51 AM #18Intermediate Member
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[QUOTE=WelderMick;1374377]Do you mean zincanneal sheet? not sure if this'll work - Anything with zinc makes tig welding a real pain as the zinc vapourises and gathers on the tungsten like you wouldn't believe.
Thats what I use for rust repairs, panels rust for a reason, so the more protection the better. just have to sand the zinc coating back on the edges your welding
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