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Thread: TIG electrode positive/negative
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19th September 2009, 02:42 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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TIG electrode positive/negative
At what gauge material do you generally switch from electrode positive (I understand it could be better for "thin" material, but what is "thin'?) to electrode negative? Sorry but when first posting this I initially (incorrectly) thought the machine was hooked up electrode positive, but in fact I have been using electrode negative, welding 1.6-2.0 mm SHS steel.
Pete
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19th September 2009 02:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th September 2009, 11:07 PM #2
Gidday
Were TAught For steel and steel alloy welding to switch your amperage setting to DCEN. (Direct Current Electrode Negative) IF you learn to control your arc n get your settings right theres no need to use an electrode positive setting.
REgards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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20th September 2009, 09:50 AM #3
Electrode positive on tig is generally only used on hard facing application at very high (for tig ) amps.
Go ahead and try it if you want ,but the likely outcome is that you you melt your tungsten on equivalent electrode negative amps on a size for size electrode.
Many years ago i welded stellite hardfacing with a water cooled tig and 500 amps using electrode pos and a 9mm diameter filler rod.
Cheers
Grahame
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20th September 2009, 01:36 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Ha ha, I have enough trouble trying to get it right the correct way When I started the thread I mistakenly thought my leads were hooked up the other way. Unfortunately this coincided with running out of gas so I wasn't able to try anything different. I think I'll stick with trying to perfect getting it right bog standard. One thing I'm noticing is just how much heat TIG puts into the metal and hence how much it can distort, that in itself is a bundle of joy I never knew existed. Next challenge is to try to weld aluminium, hopefully get some more gas monday, appropriate filler rods and a brand spanking ss wire brush and watch the disaster unfold before my very eyes
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21st September 2009, 11:03 AM #5Member
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Rather than switching polarity, you can turn the amps down and/or use smaller tungstens when the material gets thinner.
Distortion is managed by tacking up to hold things where you want and of course having the joint fit well.
One thing I'm noticing is just how much heat TIG puts into the metal and hence how much it can distort, that in itself is a bundle of joy I never knew existed.
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21st September 2009, 12:29 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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I first really noticed the distortion in some angle I was using as drawer runners. Once I saw how much they moved I clamped really well when doing subsequent welds and all was well, however if I looked very closely or put a level or straight edge on the 25 mm SHS I can see they have moved slightly too. No biggie and I put that down to lesson #24 in DIY welding lessons but it was something to keep in mind for future that's for sure. I can only imagine the stresses that must exist in metal after its been welded.
Pete
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21st September 2009, 10:45 PM #7Member
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One thing I probably should have said was the sequence and directions you weld also helps reduce distortion.
e.g. you balance the distortion one weld creates with a weld in another place.
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