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31st August 2012, 12:49 PM #31New Member
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- Aug 2012
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- Melbourne
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- 3
Aluminium fillet welds and Elite 230
I too salivate over a good machine like a Kemppi or Elite form an engineers perspective the high frequency ac arc control (not HF start) sounds very attractive especially after finding a dancing arc in a fillet weld an uncontrollable pain in the #### -
But, having got fillets under control, my experience is generic ac/dc Chinese tig will do +90% of the job and for the extra $2000 between a Chinese vs european machine, that buys a lot of practice time and consumables. The only way to get better is to practice, practice, practice. Just a hour a day, every day for 2 weeks and I got it.
I can run great butt and lap welds, but when it came to a fillet weld
they were terrible. Couldn't work it out. And the reason I couldn't, it because a fillet aluminium joint is like riding a bike! You can't explain it. You have to experience the trick and once you get it, you got it.
Use clean Al, clean tungsten, steady hands - no Parkinson's. Get in close and use enough amps to start a pool in 1-2 seconds (my biggest mistake was not enough amps and waiting too long so everything became heat soaked and turned to custard). Once pool is on both sides of the fillet, add rod and start moving quickly. there is no hesitation - just like a bike. If you think, you fall. If you feel, you ride (the weld).
Hope this helps and look forward to hear more feedback about the Elite 230 because I'm seriously looking at one.
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31st August 2012, 10:18 PM #32Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Adelaide
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- 71
agreed about practice practice practice, i try get as much tourch time as i can and just lay bead after bead after bead, i went through a E2 bottle in 3 weekends.
here is a fillet i done
All i do is hit it with plenty of heat, pointing the arc down wards, dab some filler in to to start the weld and join up to the 2 pieces like a tack then i just simply start adding filler and move along as i go.
One thing i like about the inverter is the frequency control, the 50HZ of my cig transtig just seemed slow and hazy, but now 100hz+ its alot more crisp and quicker.
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9th September 2012, 03:19 PM #33Novice
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- toowoomba
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- 14
I'm hopeless at fillets and lap joints. I found with the lap joints the higher frequencies really helped.
I was using the HF as a crutch to start but now I'm going back to lower frequencies for butt joints; 100hz and below, higher amps 75 for 1.6mm aluminium and I find I'm laying much more visually appealing beads. lower frequencies also seem better for poor fitments. 1mm gap and low amps just to melt the edges and you can lay a bead over the gap.
I finally got the wp-9 torch head from china. it was good quality. I haven't yet test fitted it as I'd have to cut through some heat shrink and don't have the size to patch it back
together at the moment.
the cable is my biggest issue. it just drags me out of position on the fillet welds of 1" pipe to larger 3" pipe I have been trying. in the end I think it is easiest to buy a CK superflex torch and cable set-up and a 12.9 dinse connector probably from arc-zone that sell them on ebay.
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10th September 2012, 11:35 PM #34Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 71
On the subject of nice flexiable tourches, this is what i done for my BOC machine
I got a spare cig weld tourch i had laying around that has a flexiable head, took the vinyle plastic cover of the tourch lead, suprisigly underneath was a really flexiable power lead with inbuilt gas hose, so i coverd it with a cowboy jacket (denim type material) wich i purchased from 6shop river on ebay. now the weight difference and fleixablilty difference now is HUGE, it hardly feels like im even holding a tourch.
the gas outlet on the front panel of the BOC machine is difference to a CIG machine.
Boc on the left, CIG on the right.
So i went down to my local BOC store and got them to look into getting a fitting for me, took a while but they finaly got them in,
the BOC part # is 500.0082 1/4in nut&barb female for anyone who wishes to do the same
I done this in order so i can still keep the BOC tourch still intact incase if i still want to use it as i also now have the foot pedal for the smooth arc.
this should helps a few of you guys who wish to change the tourch, hope to hear more input and feed back
cheers
Mondo
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11th September 2012, 01:01 AM #35GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge SA
- Posts
- 3,339
When I first learnt to weld ali, it was on an old pie warmer with a high freqency switch, an inverter was attatched to weld stainless. To increase current, just push in another button. The whole unit had only 2 switches, one for the HF and one for off/on. I used this type of machine for over 20 years. They could be run on 240 or 3phase.
I prefer the KISS principle. Would buy another one of these tommorrow.
As a side note dirty ali (ie, salt corroded ali boats) can be preped with vinegar for repairs.
KrynLast edited by KBs PensNmore; 11th September 2012 at 01:11 AM. Reason: Extra info.
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19th September 2012, 08:49 AM #36Novice
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- Dec 2011
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- toowoomba
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- 14
thanks for the info. the cig torch look nice and flexible.
I enquired about the ck worldwide superflex hoses at boc and their main torch line (torch heads and hoses) are the ck worldwide brand. however they don't import the superflex hoses and wont do a special order on one till next year due to some internal order policy. looks like I'll have to order online.
what foot peddle did you get? was it the part number from the manual and can you give me an idea of the cost?
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19th September 2012, 06:56 PM #37Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Adelaide
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- 71
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20th September 2012, 08:49 PM #38New Member
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- Jun 2012
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- Melbourne
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- 2
I would like to add that this BOC tig is an absolute bargain getting it from the BOC ebay store at $3100 delivered.
This welder is made in Germany by EWM and is one of the best on the market. Somehow BOC's pricing on this welder is well below what it cost to buy in europe or the UK.
All the best.
Grant.
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