Thread: TIG Welding Aluminium back for more Q's

Fair point CW, you could go for a 17 size torch. I wouldn't though as you have a 200A welder and you will find that the vast majority of welders in this size are supplied with 26's for a reason. 17's don't handle heat anywhere near as well as a 26 and are very similar in the head area as far as bulk, (they use the same consumables as 18's and 26's), both our Ally tigs at work ran 18 torches, which are the same platform as a 26 pretty much and we weld everything from <1mm up, often in inaccessible areas. Having said that, either one will be a vast improvement on your QQ 150. I also question the current ratings of a lot of the chinese gear as a torch that handles 150A in a top of the line brand may be closer to 120A in a bargain basement unit. The day will come when you want to crank your welder up to repair a casting or something 8 or 10mm. A 17 will not like that one bit. I actually prefer the feel of a 26. 17's feel a bit like a toy in my fairly large mitt although I spent a fair bit of time using a 17 on stainless.
17's and 26's use different power cable threads so you can't easily swap torch heads to get the best of both worlds either.
Personally, I'd go the 26, there's very little difference in price comparing them on ebay.

thanks for the help guys, when i was messing around with 3mm aluminium the QQ150 torch got really hot using around 100amps so ill look into the 26 size torch but if its big and bulky i will take the 17

Have a look in my thread pulse welder. I think page 3 there is a photo of both torches together to give you a size comparison. These torches are rated at 100% duty cycle where Id doubt that the QQ150 would be. Still the smaller torch does get hot and I did have a few problems with it but I think that had more to do with how the cable was crimped on. Been good ever since though doing alot of 3mm stuff. You defiantly will need the bigger torch if your working with over 3mm ally.
I think the biggest problem with my 26 is the heavy cable pulling on my arm, needs a superflex cable. But I suppose like anything the more you use it the better it gets.

Originally Posted by cwcarter

Have a look in my thread pulse welder. I think page 3 there is a photo of both torches together to give you a size comparison. These torches are rated at 100% duty cycle where Id doubt that the QQ150 would be. Still the smaller torch does get hot and I did have a few problems with it but I think that had more to do with how the cable was crimped on. Been good ever since though doing alot of 3mm stuff. You defiantly will need the bigger torch if your working with over 3mm ally.
I think the biggest problem with my 26 is the heavy cable pulling on my arm, needs a superflex cable. But I suppose like anything the more you use it the better it gets.

looking at the sizes i may have a problem using the 26 size torch, i only have short fingers so when i need to support my torch with my left hand my pinky wont reach the work piece

problem found its my gas hose leaking at the back of the machine, how would i go about getting the hose fitted properly? i thought a hose clamp would have been sufficient
i must have been wasting so much gas

Cut the end of the hose off and try refitting again.

Good bit of detective work Gazza
Is your gas hose the correct size for the barb on the fitting? Try what CW said and maybe even a new hose clamp. When fitted and the clamp tightened, you should not be able to twist the hose on the barb.
This will definitely be the cause of your high gas consumption.
On the subject of torch sizes, don't be too concerned about your fingers being too short. There are many ways to support the torch and running the cable up over your shoulder can be a good way to ease the strain also. Many welders do things like this with stick welding leads, in fact even with migs when working out of position.
It will all come together with practice.

Originally Posted by cwcarter

Cut the end of the hose off and try refitting again.

ok ill try it again but i think i need the proper hose crimp

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

Good bit of detective work Gazza
Is your gas hose the correct size for the barb on the fitting? Try what CW said and maybe even a new hose clamp. When fitted and the clamp tightened, you should not be able to twist the hose on the barb.
This will definitely be the cause of your high gas consumption.
On the subject of torch sizes, don't be too concerned about your fingers being too short. There are many ways to support the torch and running the cable up over your shoulder can be a good way to ease the strain also. Many welders do things like this with stick welding leads, in fact even with migs when working out of position.
It will all come together with practice.

nah mate the barb is to big for the hose this is the only hose national welding had in stock, it fits the regulator end just not the welder end

should i just use hot water or a lighter to soften the hose or just take the hose and welder to the shop and have them fit it properly?

G'day Gazza, I'm not too sure about the national welding mob, do they actually have a storefront?
If not get yourself to your nearest welding supplies store. If they sell good quality brands and gear they're probably a good place to start.
You're sticking with the job at hand which is good, it is also good to have a reliable supplier of parts and consumables, build a relationship.
This is the first time I've followed this thread and I have been impressed with your perserverance and your trouble shooting detective work in diagnosing your gas leak. The other blokes have been also doing a sterling job in helping you, well done fellas.

Of the online or over the phone people I have dealt with I have found Graham and Helen at Magnum very good. Graham was a welder at the local butter factory for many years and started selling welders, he now sells welders fulltime. Most of their business is field days now and not online but give them a call and they'll help you. No worries, good country people. They do have a storefront in Cobden, Victoria.

Without going to TAFE is there somebody close by that can help you? On line I have seen Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info is site chock full of information and very good videos. I am amazed at the quality of his video work! I think one of his tips for getting started was doing pad welds to get a feel for the process and your machine and there is lots of info on settings too. If most of us think back to when we were taught welding (if lucky enough to be) We started on pad welds before going into corner welds. There are some dvds by a bloke called Ron Covell, not cheap but good. I think Rons background is in aircraft.

Stick with it and well done.

Originally Posted by MrSmith

G'day Gazza, I'm not too sure about the national welding mob, do they actually have a storefront?
If not get yourself to your nearest welding supplies store. If they sell good quality brands and gear they're probably a good place to start.
You're sticking with the job at hand which is good, it is also good to have a reliable supplier of parts and consumables, build a relationship.
This is the first time I've followed this thread and I have been impressed with your perserverance and your trouble shooting detective work in diagnosing your gas leak. The other blokes have been also doing a sterling job in helping you, well done fellas.

Of the online or over the phone people I have dealt with I have found Graham and Helen at Magnum very good. Graham was a welder at the local butter factory for many years and started selling welders, he now sells welders fulltime. Most of their business is field days now and not online but give them a call and they'll help you. No worries, good country people. They do have a storefront in Cobden, Victoria.

Without going to TAFE is there somebody close by that can help you? On line I have seen Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info is site chock full of information and very good videos. I am amazed at the quality of his video work! I think one of his tips for getting started was doing pad welds to get a feel for the process and your machine and there is lots of info on settings too. If most of us think back to when we were taught welding (if lucky enough to be) We started on pad welds before going into corner welds. There are some dvds by a bloke called Ron Covell, not cheap but good. I think Rons background is in aircraft.

Stick with it and well done.

yeah the shop i mentioned have a store front they sell high end gear along with imported chinese gear, i will keep at it tig welding is something i kind of had a fear of but got over that once i bought the welder, i can run nice beads and have moved to box sections and that welded sort of ok but inside corners were a task i kept building up to much aluminium but looking back on the youtube videos i had a low frequency setting so the arc was wide where as i think i should have turned it up a fair bit to narrow the arc

ive fixed the gas leak, but i think im out of argon i can only get a blue zapping/spark no arc hopefully its only no argon and not my machine

Thats your high frequency start zapping there. Make sure your earth is connected to work peice.

Originally Posted by cwcarter

Thats your high frequency start zapping there. Make sure your earth is connected to work peice.

cheers mate i will check it in the morning
also forgot to ask one time i had a brain fart and moved the welder not realising i still had the gas hose connected to the gas cylinder so the cylinder fell over on my shed floor so my gauges read slightly off
what would be the symptoms of no argon? i tried youtube and google but didnt get an answer, i'd hate to return a half filled cylinder for another full one so i would like to run the argon empty

You can hear the gas come out. No gas and your weld will be a big black sooty mess.
You may have to adjust your flow rate as the cylinder pressure decreases.

Originally Posted by cwcarter

You can hear the gas come out. No gas and your weld will be a big black sooty mess.
You may have to adjust your flow rate as the cylinder pressure decreases.

awesome thanks mate i still have argon