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  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    If I were to offer you one overall piece of advice it would be to keep it simple and not overthink things. By this I mean to not play with the dials too much. The best analogy I can think of is to that of a Holden Commodore and a Mark Skaife's V8 Supercar. Both will run Bathurst and get to the finish line, the supercar definitely is more refined and can do things that the Commodore driver can only dream of due to it's adjustability and refinement. It takes a driver with the experience of Mark Skaife to bring out the best and utilise those adjustments. I would suggest setting your AC balance at 65%, which is what I would term balanced AC giving a good baseline for cleaning versus penetration and set your frequency at 50 to 60 Hz. Naturally, turn the pulse function off and run in 2T mode. This should pretty closely approximate a standard AC tig. Get some 3 to 5mm Ally and practice your beads paying attention to bead colour, (shiny not frosty), width, (consistant), profile, (not sticking up like a pimple but not wide and sunken), ripple pattern, (nice, close and consistant) and feeding your wire through your fingers. Learn what amperage you need to suit your welding style on that material thickness. Don't be scared to cool the plate between welds. Once you can run beads with your eyes closed, drop down to 1.6 or 2mm and do the same. Write down your findings in a little notebook as you find some "sweet" settings for future reference.
    Now try a butt joint in some 3mm, once you get that looking good and with a nice profile and good penetration without blowing holes, drop down to the 1.6 or 2mm and do the same. Now try some fillet welds in 3mm, or an outside corner joint. Once you master that, 1.6 or 2mm. Along the way have a play with your AC balance and Frequency, noting what they do, but go back to your baseline setting for each new type of weld. This way you learn to weld with the basics, but also develop an appreciation of the effects of the various settings and can utilise them once you gain experience. You will also pick up a good bit of experience in tacking along the way.
    Most sheet metal workshops will be happy to give/sell suitable offcuts.
    It may sound tedious and even wasteful of material and gas, but nothing masks the pain when you stuff up a project that you have put a lot of work into because the joints won't weld as you desire. You actually get a lot of welding from a cylinder of gas - 500 odd minutes @ 8lpm from an E size Argon in fact.
    I would definitely stay away from 1.6mm in your projects until you gain proficiency. You want a few successes to boost your confidence and get you back on the horse that's bucked you off first. Truth be told, you're actually not going too badly considering how you've learnt thus far.
    All the advice I have given so far has probably been on the conservative side as I believe in tried and true methods as a starting point - too many bells and whistles complicate things.
    True story, there was a shipyard, quite a high profile one in fact, their vessels are currently in service in the English Channel and with the US Navy among others at present. Their chosen material for construction of their vessels was Aluminium. Their MIG welders were modified so as to have only two basic settings. You guessed it - THICK and THIN, wire speed was variable over a very narrow range and gas flow was fixed. What this did though was to ensure that all welds were carried out withing set parameters that had been tested as being compliant with the various weld standards applicable. If anyone thinks that their welders were long term experienced boilermakers, you'd be wrong. Their favourite employees were carpenters, they knew about accuracy, but knew nothing about welding so were blank canvasses for the shipyard to train their way. Moral of the story. You don't need a heap of adjustments to do world class work, just practice and sound procedures.
    hey karl heres a close up pic of my dials can u tell me where to place each dial? ill get some small stickers and place those on the face plate so i know where all the dials should be also the current settings u can see is what ive been welding with


    also got the machine to arc instead of just spark i now need to push the trigger than lift the torch 15-20mm above the work piece before it will start a arc otherwise its just a little blue spark, could this be i was almost out of argon? im now empty and need a refill i only have a D size tank
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  3. #107
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    I can do that Gazza, but I also need a photo of the switches on the left hand side of the panel. These switches shut off the pulse and 4T functions as well as selecting ac etc. I realise you know how to select AC, but we want to switch off the 4T and pulse functions which will then cut out several of the knobs.
    I will be a bit slower replying than I have been, because I am now on a 7 day swing at work, so am out of contact for 12-14 hrs a day. I will get back to you of an evening though.
    On the subject of your gas cylinder, a D size is pretty small, I would run at least an E personally, purely for convenience sake, it makes no difference to the weld performance. I actually upsized my Oxygen cylinder just recently. The difference in rental between an E and a G was only 70 cents per month. Obviously the fill cost is greater though.
    The trouble striking an arc probably is due to lack of gas if your cylinder is near empty.

  4. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    I can do that Gazza, but I also need a photo of the switches on the left hand side of the panel. These switches shut off the pulse and 4T functions as well as selecting ac etc. I realise you know how to select AC, but we want to switch off the 4T and pulse functions which will then cut out several of the knobs.
    I will be a bit slower replying than I have been, because I am now on a 7 day swing at work, so am out of contact for 12-14 hrs a day. I will get back to you of an evening though.
    On the subject of your gas cylinder, a D size is pretty small, I would run at least an E personally, purely for convenience sake, it makes no difference to the weld performance. I actually upsized my Oxygen cylinder just recently. The difference in rental between an E and a G was only 70 cents per month. Obviously the fill cost is greater though.
    The trouble striking an arc probably is due to lack of gas if your cylinder is near empty.
    ok no problem karl take your time

    ive just uploaded a picture of the switches and im gladu said turning off some of the switches turns off the dials this will make it easier for me as i thought all the dials were still usable and that is what made it a mess with me setting it up and using it, i like things to be basic

    i ground down the welds on the live bait tank and it actually looks ok now, i also cut out a top and im going to cut out a little rim to go around on the inside of the hole

    i also bought a piece of stainless steel angle 25x25x3mm to go on the inside of the lid so i can weld the corners hopefully without melting the aluminium
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  5. #109
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    i forgot to mention i own the D size tank i bought it outright from speedgas so im kind of stuck with it now, when i was buying the tank i was looking for something easy to lift and on the day they only had D and 2 sizes up which at the time i thought that was the next size up tank and i thought i'd drop my guts out my a.. lifting the tank lol

    but when i was there the other day i seen the E size tank and thought i should have gone that one for the extra $100

  6. #110
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    Okay, the switches as you have them in pic 84 are perfect, (for ally, if you do steel, copper or stainless, just flick the AC DC switch to DC). As pictured they are set for AC Tig welding, no up or down slope and no pulse.
    That means that if we number the top row of knobs, left to right 1 to 4 and the bottom row 5 to 9. Knobs 3,4,6 and 7 should now be taken out of play.
    That leaves us with knob 1 gas preflow, set this one at minimum. Knob 2 controls your amperage, set this as required, say 60ish for 1,6, 80ish for 2mm and 100ish for 2.5 and 3mm. Knob 5 set it at half way. Knob 8 at about 1/2 to 2/3rds and know 9 at about half or a bit more, this controls your gas post flow. If your tungsten is getting oxidised and looks black and burnt, then turn this up a bit more until your tungsten remains shiny.
    This should give a good starting point.
    No worries with the D size cylinder. I didn't realise supagas would sell a cylinder outright, something I've learned.

  7. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Okay, the switches as you have them in pic 84 are perfect, (for ally, if you do steel, copper or stainless, just flick the AC DC switch to DC). As pictured they are set for AC Tig welding, no up or down slope and no pulse.
    That means that if we number the top row of knobs, left to right 1 to 4 and the bottom row 5 to 9. Knobs 3,4,6 and 7 should now be taken out of play.
    That leaves us with knob 1 gas preflow, set this one at minimum. Knob 2 controls your amperage, set this as required, say 60ish for 1,6, 80ish for 2mm and 100ish for 2.5 and 3mm. Knob 5 set it at half way. Knob 8 at about 1/2 to 2/3rds and know 9 at about half or a bit more, this controls your gas post flow. If your tungsten is getting oxidised and looks black and burnt, then turn this up a bit more until your tungsten remains shiny.
    This should give a good starting point.
    No worries with the D size cylinder. I didn't realise supagas would sell a cylinder outright, something I've learned.
    awesome thanks mate and yeah the little small tanks are being sold on ebay, the larger tanks in stores u can see it here https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/gas-c-460 these are the people i took my machine to the other day also the shop i bought my D cylinder from

  8. #112
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    the shop on ali express sent me an email this morning saying the torch pictured (that i purchased) isnt available and heres a replacement plus they will chuck in some spare parts and use DHL shipping
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  9. #113
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    Good one Gazza.
    Let us know when it's here.

  10. #114
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    This is probably a bit late, but I got my TIG torch and all accessories from here - Plasma consumable , TIG consumable , MIG consumable , welding helmet , welding macine

    It's in China, but quality and prices are good and very fast delivery (to my door in a week).
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  11. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Good one Gazza.
    Let us know when it's here.
    will do mate, i just found the foot peddle in the shed, hooked it up and all it does is turns the power on and off to the torch and its not adjustable so all my welding has to be preset on the machine

    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    This is probably a bit late, but I got my TIG torch and all accessories from here - Plasma consumable , TIG consumable , MIG consumable , welding helmet , welding macine

    It's in China, but quality and prices are good and very fast delivery (to my door in a week).
    i looked at that web site, they sell the QQ-150 spares but im a little weiry using chinese web sites im not sure how secure there payment section of there web sites are and if they send the wrong part i kiss my money good by as returning parts over seas cost a fortune, ali express covers me if im sent the wrong part

  12. #116
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    I've bought stuff from that site before too - no problems at all - got exactly what I was expecting, well packaged and quick (in fact quicker than a lot of Australian distributors). Make sure you know what you want though - it's not like you just walk around the corner and swap stuff over if you order the wrong thing.

    By the way, I also used to get some stuff from Thor welding supplies (in Australia), but my last order was never filled (even though the payment was accepted) and I ended up having to file a Paypal claim to get the money back. I notice their web site doesn't show pricing any more and I guess they just went out of business.

  13. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    I've bought stuff from that site before too - no problems at all - got exactly what I was expecting, well packaged and quick (in fact quicker than a lot of Australian distributors). Make sure you know what you want though - it's not like you just walk around the corner and swap stuff over if you order the wrong thing.

    By the way, I also used to get some stuff from Thor welding supplies (in Australia), but my last order was never filled (even though the payment was accepted) and I ended up having to file a Paypal claim to get the money back. I notice their web site doesn't show pricing any more and I guess they just went out of business.
    ive shopped at Thor welding before the bloke use to have a add-on to his house in western sydney where he done his welding business but he moved about 5-6 months ago they are now located on the central coast of NSW i think wyong is the suburb? but he still has casula on his web site address for some reason, hes a bit shifty i made a ebay purchase than went to his house to pick up the order by the time i got home 15mins drive the transaction was cancelled without me even having a say so he would save on sellers fee's

  14. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    ive shopped at Thor welding before the bloke use to have a add-on to his house in western sydney where he done his welding business but he moved about 5-6 months ago they are now located on the central coast of NSW i think wyong is the suburb? but he still has casula on his web site address for some reason, hes a bit shifty i made a ebay purchase than went to his house to pick up the order by the time i got home 15mins drive the transaction was cancelled without me even having a say so he would save on sellers fee's
    Interesting... If Thor Welding is now at Wyong, then it should be pointed out that Tokentools are also at Wyong. Pete at Tokentools is a proper standup bloke and I would hate for the two businesses to get confused.

  15. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    Interesting... If Thor Welding is now at Wyong, then it should be pointed out that Tokentools are also at Wyong. Pete at Tokentools is a proper standup bloke and I would hate for the two businesses to get confused.
    sorry mate Thor Welding Supplies moved to terrigal wich is just down the road from wyong

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      Terrigal, NSW, 2260

    T.H.O.R. Welding Supplies, Terrigal - Metal Manufacturers

  16. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i looked at that web site, they sell the QQ-150 spares but im a little weiry using chinese web sites im not sure how secure there payment section of there web sites are and if they send the wrong part i kiss my money good by as returning parts over seas cost a fortune, ali express covers me if im sent the wrong part
    I've also never had any payment or service issues with them - they also have a presence on ebay (if you find that more secure), but the prices are a little higher.

    When I purchased my TIG torch from them, the one they sent did not have the thumb switch on it, like was displayed on their web site. I contacted them straight away and they asked for a photo. I sent them the photo and they immediately posted the missing parts, which arrived promptly within a week.

    The true test of any supplier is how they handle things when there has been a mistake made (as inevitably happens with any business). These guys dealt with the problem quickly and courteously and resolved it to my satisfaction - hence the recommendation.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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