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22nd November 2009, 08:00 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Tig welding stainless to mild steel
HI ALL,
I have a Question for You all. My Uncle and I are going to Make a New Exhaust for His Tractor soon. We are using 316 S/S for the Body and the End Caps. The Bottom Pipe from the Exhaust Manifold to the Exhaust (might even run this through the Muffler body) will be Mild Steel. What is better? 1. Use S/S Tig Filler Rods to Weld the Stainless to the Mild Steel. or 2. Use Mild Steel Tig Filler Rods to Weld the Stainless to the Mild Steel. What do You all think or doesn't it matter?.
I know not to use Stainless Steel to the Exhaust Manifold (especially on a Tractor) as it will fatigue and break. That is why we are using Mild Steel. It was My Uncles idea to use Stainless for the Muffler Body.
All The Best steran50 Stewart
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22nd November 2009 08:00 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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- Advertising world
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22nd November 2009, 11:07 PM #2
My opinion is that what ever you use they will be cracking at the interface of the two metals .
I take it is a diesel as most tractors are. The petrol engine cars have stainless sytems but diesel engine models do not has been my understanding.
Grahame
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23rd November 2009, 01:21 AM #3
Some diesels do have stainless systems, i'd say though that most manifolds would be cast iron.
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23rd November 2009, 08:04 PM #4
I stand corrected. my (wrong now) info was correct years ago as we tried that on a diesel car and had a crack fest..
I supppose technology has caught up to me again.Try 309 stainless and the same filler rod as it is a heat tolerant stainless.
Grahame
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23rd November 2009, 10:43 PM #52-legged animal
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- Jan 2008
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- Murwillumbah Nthn NSW
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Arc welding stainless to mild steel box section 1.6 walls doesnt ever seem a problem with cheap mild steel 2.5 mill rods .Did some just the last few days as I got given a lot of 25x25 1.6 stainless shelve frames .Welds never seem to crack ,just rust a bit.You can get special [expensive] rods to braze stainless to mild with oxy.Give it a go with what you have its only a tractor -- not like loosing your exaust on the motorway at 110+ in a car .
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27th November 2009, 04:34 PM #6Dave J Guest
I welded stainless steel exhaust pipe to mild steel flanges on the 4x4, with mild steel wire in the mig,and have not had a problem in 5 years. After weld and clean up, I painted it with pot belly black paint.
Dave
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30th November 2009, 09:42 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2006
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- Mallacoota,VIC,Australia
- Age
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- 656
HI,
Thanks for the Replys. I will try the Local Boilermaker and see if He has some 309 Filler Rods. I have also been thinking of Making the Muffler in three pieces. The 1st Manifold to Silencer in Mild Steel, 2nd Silencer in Stainless Steel, 3rd Outlet in either Stainless or Mild Steel. I will let You know how I go. First of all I need to make a Circle Cutting Attatchment for My 40 Amp Plasma Cutter.
All The Best steran50 Stewart
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1st December 2009, 01:52 AM #8Dave J Guest
Hi Stewart,
I got a link to this plasma circle cutter the other day while browsing, it might give you an idea or two.
Home-Made Circle-Jig for my Plasma Cutter - TractorByNet.com
Dave
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5th December 2009, 10:51 AM #9Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Bayswater Nth Melbourne
- Posts
- 35
You can get flexible S/S tube. All the trucks/ crane motors I've seen lately have this fitted , it seems you dont need to have the exaust rubber mounted if you use it close to the manifold. Tangent (no ass.) have circle cutters, I have one for oxy/ace and it works well. Ive used one for plasma with same results.
Cheers, Col.
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6th December 2009, 10:57 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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- Mallacoota,VIC,Australia
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HI,
Thanks Dave J - I had thought about a Magnet type, but will be Cutting Stainless as well. I however still might make a Magnetic attatchment as well for Mild Steel work. Especially when cutting vertically.
Thanks Col James, I know about the flexible S/S Pipe.As we fit it to the Air Compressors (Hookahs) Exhaust on the Abalone Boats where I work. The Deckhand puts the other end into the Water (Ocean) whilst the Hookah is running to help keep the noise down. The Flexible S/S is however not suitable for this Tractors Muffler. The Tractor is an 'Eastwind' with a Perkins Diesel Motor. The Exhaust Manifold is threaded with (from memory) 1 1/2" bsp straight. From their the Exhaust pipe goes straight up 1.5 to 2 feet to the Silencer. From the Silencer it goes up another 1.5 to 2 feet to its mounting point on the Tractors Fibreglass Roof ( a piece of rubber is used at this point to assist in anti vibration).
As for the 'Tangent' Circle Cutters, I think they are over priced. I for one am not going to spend what they want for one, for the amount of use it's going to get.
I think for now we are going to just Patch up the old Muffler till I can get a chance to make the new one.
All The Best steran50 Stewart
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6th February 2010, 04:46 PM #11Novice
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 13
Something I have used to weld dissimilar metals with great results is silicon bronze brazing rods with either oxy or tig as the heat source. You can build up the fillet so that there is a large weld area, it is beautiful stuff to work with.
I believe it would be plenty strong enough for an exhaust system and probably cope with the vibration very well because you would avoid the HAZ on the stainless right near the weld if you tig it with filler rod.
Just a thought and good little "get out of gaol" trick for welding dissimilar metals.
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