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Thread: Transtig 180 ac/dc welder
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6th May 2007, 10:18 AM #16
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6th May 2007 10:18 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th May 2008, 09:22 PM #17
A question reguarding a transtig 180
I'm a starting buisness, and I just bought a used transtig 180. I've used more advanced welders in the past, But this is the first bit of older equipment I've bought. With the thought 'old=more robust' I have a old youngs model C stick welder and I can't ever imagine buying anything else. So I decided to go with the youngs transtig 180. Problem is, this welder I bought doesn't seem to want to start an arc very easily, even with the high frequency turned on to get the air preionized. The most I've been able to do is to get it to start an arc around the 130amp range, weld for a little there, then after a time I can bring it down to lower amperages, down to say 20 just by scratch starting. But it's as if something in the welder has to 'warm up' before it will start an arc, otherwise leave it be for over a minute, and it's impossible to start below 130 amps and definately impossible with out the highfrequancy start enabled. I'm thinking to myself "jeeze, this goes down to 7 amps??? How am I supposed to weld down to that??" Considering the age of this welder, I'm betting something inside has gone bad and only works well when it's warmed up. I plan on taking it to a welding repair place, but I was hoping anyone here could give me an idea as to what could be wrong, so I'm a bit more informed when I talk to the repair guy. Thanks again.
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30th May 2008, 09:46 PM #18
Somewhere on the unit there maybe a opening that covers the points.They may need a file an re set
No idea as to what the gap should be.
Grahame
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30th May 2008, 11:23 PM #19
Think there are 4 rectifier diodes (13 years since I looked at this), 2 of the ones in mine were faulty when I purchased it. I would spark but not sustain an arc, I'm sure they are on the right side, left is the power lead and bridge setup, the whole side cover needs to come off. This is leco teritory and it sounds like the whole machine including HF points need a service.
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31st May 2008, 12:07 AM #20
When I first pulled it off the crate, I opened up the case to have a look inside to see if anything looked out of place. I did note the three contact points that reminded me of motorcycle points. I would imagine that these should look exactly the same, clean, flat and gapped correctly - might give those a good going over with a diamond file and find out what the correct gap should be.
Considering the age of this welder, and the fact that the 4 diodes look to be origional, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt in the slighest to replace them. I just wasn't sure if this could be the only problem. Bad diodes would, I assume, cause sluggish rectification and/or the problem I was having with it 'needing to warm up' before it would strike an arc with out too much trouble.
I was just curious as to if it could be anything else in the system.
Also, when running the high frequency, is it suppose to cut out automatically when the arc is struck? or does it keep running overtop? and is this a bad thing? (the machines I used to use, everything was all automatic, pedal run and such - not a manual monster like this)
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31st May 2008, 12:22 AM #21
On my old transtig the HF is either on or off, no auto cutout for starting. I scratch start on carbon & ss and use HF for AC Al only.
Other faults, don't know, but I doubt things like bad conections(usually get worse as the machine warms up), 240/415/480 bridges being wired wrong would give the effect explained.
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30th August 2008, 08:37 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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8th October 2008, 02:44 PM #23New Member
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Transtig Manual
I'm also interested in a Transtig 180 manual. Can you help? Peter ([email protected]
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9th October 2008, 09:55 PM #24Intermediate Member
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not a problem. only have photocopy. i am doing a few tomorrow so I will just mke an extra one for you.
just email me [email protected] your address and I will send it off.
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1st March 2009, 12:15 PM #25New Member
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Hi, i have 1982 transtig 180 tyhat i would love to get a manula for as mine has some issues that need to be addressed. Do you still have copies of these????
Thanks
Trav
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1st March 2009, 02:04 PM #26New Member
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Transtig 180
Send me your email address. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with these machines.
No HF either (1) bad spark gap (2) bad high voltage capacitor (3) high voltage transformer burnt out (suitable replacements on ebay for about 10 to 20 dollars US plus postage).
Poor welds on DC means one or more blown diodes. Easy to check with a battery & torch bulb. The Diodes are low spec 150 amp 300 volt as used in a number of CIG machines. Two of the four diodes are forward polarity and the other two are reverse polarity (marked with an R). Any diode that size or with larger volts/amps should do although note they are stud diodes with I think a 1/2" stud diameter.
The last two electric welders I looked at were full of metal filings as they were sitting next to other machinery and work benches. Clean these out with compressed air because I could imagine they might vibrate with all the magnetic flux around and cause shorts in the main transformer and choke.
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1st March 2009, 07:23 PM #27New Member
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There is HF there but it seems very weak, we have faced and gapped the points, repaired the chock slides and the always busted/striped nut assembly on the choke.
We also had to wire in the welder for 3 phase, would a possible incorrest wireing on the bridge possibly cause this issue to, when we bought the welders from defence force the plugs had been cut off.
Ill send you a PM with my email addy, thanks for your efforts.
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1st March 2009, 08:24 PM #28Member
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Welcome to the forums trav-ke55, glad to have another GV metal worker on the forums, hope your welder gets fixed.
Matt.
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3rd March 2009, 09:17 PM #29Intermediate Member
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anyone who wants one, just pm your mailing address and i will post one out.
just have to find some time to scam the copier at work
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22nd June 2009, 08:59 AM #30New Member
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