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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    there is no lake at- Kinglake
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    262

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ISL33P View Post
    Hi All,

    I have it all done...sort of. It is a jpg file per page, approx 33 pgs and 16mb. would you like it on cd ? If so, i will just make it $5 delivered which will cover the cd cost and postage. i think this is the easiest way.
    Send you pm ,with my details
    forge

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Auckland, NewZealand
    Posts
    2

    Default A question reguarding a transtig 180

    I'm a starting buisness, and I just bought a used transtig 180. I've used more advanced welders in the past, But this is the first bit of older equipment I've bought. With the thought 'old=more robust' I have a old youngs model C stick welder and I can't ever imagine buying anything else. So I decided to go with the youngs transtig 180. Problem is, this welder I bought doesn't seem to want to start an arc very easily, even with the high frequency turned on to get the air preionized. The most I've been able to do is to get it to start an arc around the 130amp range, weld for a little there, then after a time I can bring it down to lower amperages, down to say 20 just by scratch starting. But it's as if something in the welder has to 'warm up' before it will start an arc, otherwise leave it be for over a minute, and it's impossible to start below 130 amps and definately impossible with out the highfrequancy start enabled. I'm thinking to myself "jeeze, this goes down to 7 amps??? How am I supposed to weld down to that??" Considering the age of this welder, I'm betting something inside has gone bad and only works well when it's warmed up. I plan on taking it to a welding repair place, but I was hoping anyone here could give me an idea as to what could be wrong, so I'm a bit more informed when I talk to the repair guy. Thanks again.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default

    Somewhere on the unit there maybe a opening that covers the points.They may need a file an re set

    No idea as to what the gap should be.
    Grahame

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Muswellbrook NSW
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Think there are 4 rectifier diodes (13 years since I looked at this), 2 of the ones in mine were faulty when I purchased it. I would spark but not sustain an arc, I'm sure they are on the right side, left is the power lead and bridge setup, the whole side cover needs to come off. This is leco teritory and it sounds like the whole machine including HF points need a service.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Auckland, NewZealand
    Posts
    2

    Default

    When I first pulled it off the crate, I opened up the case to have a look inside to see if anything looked out of place. I did note the three contact points that reminded me of motorcycle points. I would imagine that these should look exactly the same, clean, flat and gapped correctly - might give those a good going over with a diamond file and find out what the correct gap should be.

    Considering the age of this welder, and the fact that the 4 diodes look to be origional, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt in the slighest to replace them. I just wasn't sure if this could be the only problem. Bad diodes would, I assume, cause sluggish rectification and/or the problem I was having with it 'needing to warm up' before it would strike an arc with out too much trouble.

    I was just curious as to if it could be anything else in the system.

    Also, when running the high frequency, is it suppose to cut out automatically when the arc is struck? or does it keep running overtop? and is this a bad thing? (the machines I used to use, everything was all automatic, pedal run and such - not a manual monster like this)

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Muswellbrook NSW
    Posts
    375

    Default

    On my old transtig the HF is either on or off, no auto cutout for starting. I scratch start on carbon & ss and use HF for AC Al only.

    Other faults, don't know, but I doubt things like bad conections(usually get worse as the machine warms up), 240/415/480 bridges being wired wrong would give the effect explained.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Mallacoota,VIC,Australia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    656

    Default Need a Cig Transtig 180 ac/dc manual too.

    Quote Originally Posted by ISL33P View Post
    Hi All,

    I have it all done...sort of. It is a jpg file per page, approx 33 pgs and 16mb. would you like it on cd ? If so, i will just make it $5 delivered which will cover the cd cost and postage. i think this is the easiest way.
    Hi seen Your post while looking for a Manual for a Cig Transtig 180 ac/dc Welder. I have only just bought the Welder of Ebay I am still waiting its arrival. Do You still have the Manual ?. If so how much for a copy ?.
    Thankyou

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    North Shore Sydney
    Posts
    6

    Default Transtig Manual

    Quote Originally Posted by forge View Post
    Tried to send you pm .did not work.Im interested in a copy please pm me with your details,Regards,
    I'm also interested in a Transtig 180 manual. Can you help? Peter ([email protected]

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default

    not a problem. only have photocopy. i am doing a few tomorrow so I will just mke an extra one for you.

    just email me [email protected] your address and I will send it off.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Shepparton, victoria
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Hi, i have 1982 transtig 180 tyhat i would love to get a manula for as mine has some issues that need to be addressed. Do you still have copies of these????
    Thanks
    Trav

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    North Shore Sydney
    Posts
    6

    Default Transtig 180

    Send me your email address. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with these machines.

    No HF either (1) bad spark gap (2) bad high voltage capacitor (3) high voltage transformer burnt out (suitable replacements on ebay for about 10 to 20 dollars US plus postage).

    Poor welds on DC means one or more blown diodes. Easy to check with a battery & torch bulb. The Diodes are low spec 150 amp 300 volt as used in a number of CIG machines. Two of the four diodes are forward polarity and the other two are reverse polarity (marked with an R). Any diode that size or with larger volts/amps should do although note they are stud diodes with I think a 1/2" stud diameter.

    The last two electric welders I looked at were full of metal filings as they were sitting next to other machinery and work benches. Clean these out with compressed air because I could imagine they might vibrate with all the magnetic flux around and cause shorts in the main transformer and choke.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Shepparton, victoria
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by engineer View Post
    Send me your email address. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with these machines.

    No HF either (1) bad spark gap (2) bad high voltage capacitor (3) high voltage transformer burnt out (suitable replacements on ebay for about 10 to 20 dollars US plus postage).

    Poor welds on DC means one or more blown diodes. Easy to check with a battery & torch bulb. The Diodes are low spec 150 amp 300 volt as used in a number of CIG machines. Two of the four diodes are forward polarity and the other two are reverse polarity (marked with an R). Any diode that size or with larger volts/amps should do although note they are stud diodes with I think a 1/2" stud diameter.

    The last two electric welders I looked at were full of metal filings as they were sitting next to other machinery and work benches. Clean these out with compressed air because I could imagine they might vibrate with all the magnetic flux around and cause shorts in the main transformer and choke.
    There is HF there but it seems very weak, we have faced and gapped the points, repaired the chock slides and the always busted/striped nut assembly on the choke.
    We also had to wire in the welder for 3 phase, would a possible incorrest wireing on the bridge possibly cause this issue to, when we bought the welders from defence force the plugs had been cut off.
    Ill send you a PM with my email addy, thanks for your efforts.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Kyabram, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    47
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Welcome to the forums trav-ke55, glad to have another GV metal worker on the forums, hope your welder gets fixed.

    Matt.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default

    anyone who wants one, just pm your mailing address and i will post one out.
    just have to find some time to scam the copier at work

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    1

    Default Transtig 180 operators manual

    Hi there i was wondering if you could email me the manual i just found your post thanks Dyson

    Quote Originally Posted by ISL33P View Post
    Hi All,

    could you please post a pic of your, just the front panel as i have just bought one and see if they were any different over the years.

    Thanks,
    Ariel

    edit - looks like they have all been the same over the years.

    PS i have found a copy of the manual and just waiting if they are willing to provide a copy

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