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Thread: Troubleshooting the Transmig 195
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22nd September 2011, 12:55 PM #16Member
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Hi Lordbug,
I am leaning toward a gas shield issue and I am assuming you are using a suitable gas. A stuttering arc can occur when there is no gas flow or insufficient gas. The gas itself ionises and becomes electrically conductve so without sufficient gas it is difficult to get a stable arc.
A good test is to take the gas line off the back of the machine and connect it to a plastic bag. Run the gas until the bag inflates and time it with a stop watch. Repeat this procedure from the mig torch end. i.e put the bag over the end of the mig torch and inflate the bag.
Both of your readings should be the same. Remember to remove your mig wire for the test. If the readings are out it could indicate you have a blockage or a leak and due to the the noise of the fan etc you may be unable to hear it.
Also you need to estimate the volume of the bag and have an assumed time of inflation worked out based on your reg flow rate. For example if the bag holds 30 litres and the reg flow rate is 20 litres per minute then it should take 90 seconds to inflate. If it takes far longer it could mean there is an issue with the reg.
Hope this helps .
Regards
Pete
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22nd September 2011 12:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd September 2011, 02:44 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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I would be quite surprised if it were a gas issue. A mig will run with a decent arc and not just soften the wire as you describe with no gas, (bottle turned off). The weld however will be fluffy and porous.
If the wire is simply melting and getting soft it is an electrical issue of some type. Try earth lead/clamp, connection onto work, (rust, paint etc) or perhaps we get back to the original thought of a faulty power source. It pays to check the internal high current connections also.
A few pictures of the bead would help.
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22nd September 2011, 09:20 PM #18
I have just tested two cigweld 250 machines at work and one of them did just what you described. We then had a local electronics guru look at it and he diagnosed the recifier is shot. This machine is only a few years old and we are unable to source a new rectifier to suit. I would be saying good luck in your quest to get that old machine working again.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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22nd September 2011, 09:26 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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22nd September 2011, 09:31 PM #20Member
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Should it turn out to be a rectifier i have one which you can have in exchange for the old one (I can fix it )
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22nd September 2011, 10:16 PM #21
We are a cigweld reseller, they have no reason not to sell us parts, they have before and can't see any reason that they wouldn't this time.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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23rd September 2011, 12:29 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Are you trying to source a genuine part or a generic one? Often the generic part is available long after the manufacturer has ceased supply.
There is a company near me specialising in welder repair and they have been able to source parts for absolutely ancient machines.
As long as the rectifier is of sufficient capacity then the style should not matter greatly, so perhaps it may be feasible to modify the rectifier bank to a different style.
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25th September 2011, 07:30 PM #23Tool addict
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I only have a dslr to hand, so photos only for the time being. But as requested, here's a run of melts with the six different power levels, one at the left and six to the right, all at wire speed 7.
Photo 1 is before wire brush application, photo 2 is post wire brush.
What happens on power 1/2/3 happens on 1.6mm steel as well, so I doubt the thickness of this piece (approx. 10mm) has had an affect in this instance.
Dubman, that would be absolutely fantastic. Lets see if these photos help with diagnosis.
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26th September 2011, 06:03 PM #24Member
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I think the machine might be alright
try adjusting the wire speed to feed the wire in slower (much slower in the case of the first weld)
Normally with a diode problem you will get a weld that looks like brd sht Diodes are never an intermittent problem and I doubt if you could get the last weld with faulty ones
Also
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26th September 2011, 06:34 PM #25Tool addict
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If it is a case of user error, I'm going to be mildly embarrassed and greatly relieved
Will respond with how it goes when I get home. Fingers crossed that I'm a cheery doofus
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26th September 2011, 08:13 PM #26danielson
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looking at you photos my guess is your wire feed is all very wrong.i have a mid 90s rural pack 195 and your welds on upper two settings are just fine and middle weld is also almost normal.try your wire feed(voltage) on about two on 1.6 mm sheet and go from there.good luck. dont forget more photos.
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26th September 2011, 08:28 PM #27Tool addict
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Who's an incredibly large dingleberry?
Me, that's who
Wire feed it is!
Only a quick test, but I'm getting fairly decent beads on a piece of steel from a 44gal drum on 1 & 2 with low low wire feed speed. I'll test some thicker metal when I have a bit more time, but I'm happy to have been reminded that troubleshooting should start with the simplest things first
I'm too happy to have things working to be blushing thankfully
Thanks for putting up with me, and please don't throw too many rotten tomatoes
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3rd October 2011, 05:56 PM #28Dave J Guest
I am coming into this way late, but we spoke about your welder when you first got it as I have one as well.
I am no good on the electrics, but my wire feed is always between 2.5 and 3 and I use 0.9mm wire. I find I never go below or above these settings no matter what amp range, but the dial is sensitive so just a small amount of movement makes a big difference.
The last welder I had was a Due mig and I was running the wire speed flat out welding aluminum, where this welder is so much faster I don't need to run it that high on the dial now.
Dave
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