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Thread: welding bobcat bucket teeth
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13th June 2009, 05:34 PM #1
welding bobcat bucket teeth
Hello all,
I am planning to weld teeth on to my new bucket. I feel I am a good general welder, and have a lot of experience in fabrication.. but..... I haven't welded teeth to a bucket before, and I don't want to stuff it up. I don't have a really big welder either..... 180amp Peerless is the one I have at the moment, although I have my workshop set up with very good power. I have over 200amps @ 240v available.
Graham old mate.... do you think this is a doable task within the constraints as above, or should I bite the bullet and have it done at my local engineering shop. I have had the job quoted at around $300-$350 bucks. I was hoping to save a bit, as the teeth have already cost me a small fortune.
Any advice appreciated.
Fossil
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13th June 2009, 09:43 PM #2
I take it they are teeth to replace worn or broken ones,
Low hydrogen electrodes are the go on Electrode postive if you have a DC machine or they will run on AC
Tack them on first and if replacing all don,t weld them all in a row as 1,2,3,4.
More like 1,3,2,4. to avoid any possible distortion.
If you already have LH 7016's use them or if you need to bulk up the deposit use LH Low Hydrogen iron powder Austarc 77's or Kobe'7024;s , 4mm probably better than 3.25mm
Grahame
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13th June 2009, 11:22 PM #3
Fossil, before you start welding can you buy a bob cat bucket which already has teeth attached?
if so, apart from teeth what is the diffeence between a toothed and a non tooth bucket, especially in terms of steel thickness, depth of bucket and where the mounting attachregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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14th June 2009, 12:05 AM #4
I'd take it to a shop to get it done IMHO.
Your bucket is made from Bisaloy which needs to be preheated before welding to remove any moisture also the cooling after welding is very important too otherwise it cracks.
We wrap entire buckets in special fibre blankets so they cool as slow as possible.
Rob
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14th June 2009, 01:29 AM #5
If Yarra valley dude is correct its probably a 400 series
heres a PDF fro bisalloy re procedure .
http://www.bisalloy.com.au/files/Tec...20Bisplate.pdf
Have read and if there anything you get hung up on, I'LL try an help with.
I am surprised Bobcats use bisalloy.
I thought the smaller stuff may have used bolt on wear edges and teeth as well.
Is yours a a fairly recent one?
Grahame
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14th June 2009, 09:18 AM #6
Thanks for the replies.
The bucket isn't actually brand new... just new to me. Here is the bucket in question. Mine has a 16mm floor. http://www.digga.com.au/4-in-1-buckets.html
The quote from my local didn't mention any Bisalloy, or any particular cooling method etc. Graham, I do have several boxes of 7016 rods, but my largest are 3.2.
I'd take it to a shop to get it done IMHO.
Your bucket is made from Bisaloy which needs to be preheated before welding to remove any moisture also the cooling after welding is very important too otherwise it cracks.
We wrap entire buckets in special fibre blankets so they cool as slow as possible.
Rob
Graham.... thanks for the link. I will read up on it now.
Doesn't look like I will be welding bobcat teeth this morning. Might clean up the workshop instead.
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14th June 2009, 11:12 AM #7
Fossil, if I read right, your bucket is a 4-in-1 with bolt-on cutting edges.
Although my excavation experience is with much larger gear and is now getting a bit long in the tooth, FWIW, my recollection is
1) I don't think I've ever seen a 4-in-1 fitted with teeth
2) If you want to fit a toothed edge to a straight edge bucket you have to first replace the straight cutting edge with one designed to take teeth
3) bolt-on teeth are the "best" because replacing a worn tooth is much easierregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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14th June 2009, 11:41 AM #8
I just mentioned the 4mm rods if you think a build up is required.
Multi pass runs to acheive build up are not good as this increases the heat input into this particular weldment which needs to be limited.Multi pass with 3.15 produce more heat than a single with 4mm.
Its just a job where there are established procedures and they need to be followed to maintain the integrity of the Bisalloy.
No more difficult than following a builders plan, I suppose.
Cheers
Grahame
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14th June 2009, 12:29 PM #9
Hi Ian,
This machine is the third I have owned, and is the first that hasn't had teeth on the bucket.
My last machine had a Daiken bucket as in the pic below. It was a far superior bucket than the one on this newish machine.
I have purchased 7 teeth and adapters from my local CAT dealer. The adapters are welded to the front cutting edge of the bucket. They are split at the end, so go over the lip and are welded above and below. The tips are cast, and are replaceable, however in all my life, I haven't worn any down. I have lost a few, but never worn them out.
I am intending to have a chat to my local boilermaker again. If he was quoting for welding the adapters to Bisalloy, I think I will take him up on the task. If it is going to cost much more for a decent job, I will do it myself next weekend. Having read Grahams posted info on Bisalloy welding, I don't think it will all that difficult. I just need to get set up properly and get into it.
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14th June 2009, 06:36 PM #10Pink 10EE owner
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We are probably getting a bit caught up on this...My way of doing it would be to use 7018's (I found they run better then 7016's on 240V low OCV welders), prepare the welding surface, preheat it a tad and start welding..
Considering it is not a part for the space shuttle I don't think we need to complicate matters too greatly..
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14th June 2009, 09:34 PM #11regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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