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  1. #1
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    Default Welding Carbide to SS

    I am trying to attach (weld, solder) carbide to SS (316). Have had trouble with silver solder sticking to SS. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions. Any help would be appreciated.

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  3. #2
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    Are you using the right solder is the ss clean, are you getting it to proper temperature, do have the correct flux

  4. #3
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    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/si...-1-info-43407/

    We use the SB 45 at work for silver soldering stainless steel bit of an art to it , well not really. If the stainless gets too hot it will oxidise (go black) and nothing will stick. Once the flux melts to clear that is enough heat and touch the solder to the job, a little more heat to push the solder around.

  5. #4
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    More info required.
    What, how, why???
    Is this a cutting tool?
    TCT saw blades use a special alloy SBA 2503 from memory, S/S solders readily with SBA245 but will not solder successfully with plumbing grade silver solder.

  6. #5
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    Thanks very much for your help. I am trying to make some TCT woodturning tools but not the sort with replaceable tips. In this case I bought some 25mm wide x 8mm thick S/S and had a 2mm slot milled into the end of it that is 25mm deep. My plan was to insert a 1.6mm strip of TC into the slot and silver solder it in. My saw doctor was going to do this but hadn't had much experience with the S/S before and couldn't get the solder to stick to the s/s. We also had the problem of the s/s springing open when the slot was cut so the top of the slot is flared slightly. It ain't going well and I spent $130 to have the slots cut. Perhaps I shouldn't have used s/s?

  7. #6
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    Have just looked at the boc website and the two alloys that you should be looking at are either Prosilver 402 or 494 with Tenacity 4a flux.
    The difference between the two seems to be that 494 is recommended for tct inserts over 9mm long.
    Why as a matter of interest did you choose stainless steel? Why so deep - 25mm for the slot?
    I don't suppose that there is residual cutting lube left from when the slots were milled, potentially that could affect adhesion of the silver brazing alloy. I am a little puzzled as to why you are having difficulties as your saw doctor would be well versed in silver brazing, therefore I would be looking for something out of the ordinary such as contamination or incompatible flux/filler rod.
    Keep me posted, I am quite interested in the outcome.

  8. #7
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    Thanks for that Karl. I have attached a drawing of what I had planned. I thought s/s because it was harder than mild steel. Not sure if this was the right thing to do now. Let me know what you think.

  9. #8
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    Brendon I downloaded a pdf not so long ago on the subject will see if I can locate it not sure if it mentions SS though.

    I dont see and attachment in your last post

    http://www.smex.net.au/Reference/SilverSoldering01.htm

  10. #9
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    Both the alloys that I previously mentioned are compatible with stainless steel.
    Normally s/s silver brazes very nicely with the correct flux and silver alloy.
    Likewise, I can see no attachment either.

  11. #10
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    the website or my service provider was having issues over the weekend. here's the drawing... I hope.

  12. #11
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    I understand.
    Should be achievable.
    Possibly s/s was not the best choice, but not the worst either.
    Maybe if you make other tools you couls talk to a specialty steel supplier such as Bohler Uddeholm, (I am fairly certain that they are Australia wide) an discuss available steel types.
    Good luck, let me know how it goes.

  13. #12
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    Hi Brendan,
    I remember coming across post #13 here about silver soldering tct to mild steel. Just FYI in case that is your problem.

    Cheers
    Michael

  14. #13
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    Default Carbide to Stainless

    Hello Brendan
    What about trying to glue the carbide section in as in the woodcut heads on their turning chisels?
    You have quite a large area there for adhesion and wouldn't suffer the heat/distortion problem that you have experienced with the stainless, most carbide tools I have seen are put on to mild steel and only brazed on 1 side , food for thought .
    B the B

  15. #14
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    Good info there, just shows you can always learn something new.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by B the B View Post
    Hello Brendan
    What about trying to glue the carbide section in as in the woodcut heads on their turning chisels?
    You have quite a large area there for adhesion and wouldn't suffer the heat/distortion problem that you have experienced with the stainless, most carbide tools I have seen are put on to mild steel and only brazed on 1 side , food for thought .
    B the B
    What glue would you use?
    Silver brazing s/s is not a problem in itself, even heating should take care of the distortion issue.
    I guess it is a valid option though, well worth exploring.

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