Thread: Welding Chrome Vanadium

If in doubt of what filler to use, then 316l Stainless Steel filler wire is always a good choice. Have welded numerous tools and springs with this.

Use the stick welder as it sounds like you will need to go and buy some rods. I think you can get cigweld ones in a pack of 5 electrodes, otherwise a full box is a bit expensive!

Safety; the slag on stainless welds tends to spit off after the weld is complete, keep your helmet down and glasses on, until you have removed all of the slag!

I'll do just that.

Thanks for the warning on the slag.

I spent Saturday afternoon having a steel chip removed from my right eye. I wear prescription safety glasses AND use a face shield and it still got me. I still can't stand bright lights!

hi zuffen,ive welded many sockets,some to good too ruin and some reshapen beer cans!,grind off the chrome plateing and use a mig and it will stick like bear poo to a rabbit,just dont quench immediatly.cheers danny

I agree weld it with a mig works a charm.
john.

Job done.

I re-checked the torque of the nuts and it's 490NM so a bit tighter than I thought.

On checking I found 490NM is only around 125lbft so not as tight as I was immagining.

I then looked at the 60mm diameter pipe I was welding and figured I would have around 180/190mm of weld so figured crank up the stick welder and use a general purpose rod. At 140AMP it welded a treat.

If the weld had broken it wouldn't have been the end of the world.

I also welded a cross pipe to the top of the pipe welded to the socket, to form a "T", and hit it with a sledge mammer (not hard a good tap did it) and the nuts are undone.

Now all I need to do is figure out how to re-torque the nuts when the new bearings are on.

I could have farmed this out but I love doing it myself.